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TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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Hello,
I was cleaning my model 999 and removed the cylinder from the pin after pressing the release. Cleaned the gun and now I'm unable to slide the cylinder back on. There seems to be something in the hole stopping it. Any one ever have that happen and know how to get the cyl. back on? Thank You,
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#2 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 3,628
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cylinder retaining spring is in the way or broken. The spring needs to be pressed down and the cylinder fits over top. The spring then will snap into a recess inside of the cylinder.
Also there is an ejector rod inside of that tube, its what pushes the ejectors up when the action is opened. The rod is what your running into.
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Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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Thank You for the reply. How is the best way to press down that spring?
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#4 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 3,628
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finger, just the same way it came out.
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Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com |
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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There is something still in the way even when pushing release, seems solid too?
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#6 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 3,628
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Take a look at this parts breakdown http://gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Prod...spx?catid=7937
This will give you a visual of what is in the works. My guess was the extractor extension but make sure that it is fully screwed on to the ejector. If the extension is backed out then it won't allow the cylinder to seat properly. Another thing to do and this may also be the problem is, that when the action is opened the ejector cam (29) pushes the extractor extension out. after checking the extractor extension for tightness to the extractor, put the cylinder on anyway but start to slowly close the action, you may find that when the action starts to close and the extractor cam backs away, the cylinder will pop back on. How the whole thing works is when you open the action the cam pushes forward on the extractor extension which pushes the extractor outwards so the spent casings fall out. The extractor is spring loaded, so that may be the resistance that you feel when your trying to place the cylinder back on, so partially closing the action will keep the spring tension at a minimum b/c the cam has backed off.
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Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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I finally got back by tapping the cylinder with it almost closed. It must of slipped past the ejector cam that way. Open and closes just fine now. I took it out shooting yesterday and it miss fires about half the time. Looking at the miss fired shells they looked like the fired ones? They all seem light in the indent mark. My hammer tip is not broken. seems original? How can I adjust for a little harder indent on the shell?
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#8 |
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Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ohio NRA Member
Contributor
Posts: 5,372
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What brand of .22 ammo are you shooting? Might be just that?
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Two Words; "Simple Man", song by Charlie Daniels sums up my thoughts on a "few things"!
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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Some 22 long old stuff I had in my box. I did try a cyl full of newer Remington 22 long rifle shells and it did the same thing.
Last edited by tbarker; 06-27-2010 at 11:19 AM.. |
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#10 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 438
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Try something other than Remington.
Give some CCI or Winchester a try. Remington = junk, IMO. You may also need to replace the mainspring. Is it always the same holes that fail to fire? Maybe it has been dryfired, which can also cause light hits. |
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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Thanks James I'll give that try this week and report back
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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I took the mainspring out and found the plastic head broken off and cotter pin missing on the other end that holds metal seat.
Guess that would be the problem. Can someone verify that would cause miss firing? |
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#13 |
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*TFF Moderator/Host*
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Imperial, MO
Posts: 3,628
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that's your bogey.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...spx?catid=7937 Parts diagram. Part looks like this
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Only cowards shoot with their eyes closed.... helixgunsmith.com Last edited by Helix_FR; 06-29-2010 at 10:42 PM.. |
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#14 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 438
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tbarker,
Yep, that's the problem. Helix shows the solution.IIRC the plastic headed spring may not be available any longer. It may just be the steel head. Give Numrich a call, they'll hook you up. Have your serial # handy! Jim Last edited by jamesjo; 06-30-2010 at 09:38 AM.. |
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 10
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Thanks for the heads up.
I was able to order a plastic head mainspring so I'm in good shape. Does anyone know if a steel head would of worked? |
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#16 |
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V.I.P. Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 438
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I have had several people tell me that the steel head will work fine as a replacement.
But I also have a friend who is an H&R collcetor, and expert, he told me he always replaces with the same style mainspring if possible. Even though a steel replacement shouldn't ever break, I trust his advice, and always replace with plastic if that's what it had. |
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#17 |
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Former Guest
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Moses Lake, WA
Posts: 10,344
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The only problem you will have with the steel head is a little faster wear. Not enough to really worry about unless you are shooting a couple of bricks a week for quite a few years.
Pops |
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