Suggestions for removing stripped scope screws

[wpshooter]

I am in the process of doing a complete cleaning a gun for my nieces' husband and then going to zero/sight in the gun for him after cleaning.

In the process of removing the scope from the gun, I discovered that on the 2 front screws on the front ring of the scope that the hex fittings have been stripped/smoothed out (it is the hex head that is stripped - not the actual screw or ring threads) by whoever installed the scope on the rifle, I would guess by attempting to over tighten. The back 2 screws were fine and thus I got them out.

I have so far not been able to figure out how to get those 2 front screws out of the ring.

I tried putting some paper and also a thin piece of cloth into the hex slots before inserting the allen wrench but this did not work - still could not turn them.

I got the scope off of the gun by removing the rings from the base but I still need to get those front 2 screws off of the front ring so I can get the ring off of the scope, then I can attempt to order some new screws for the rings to replace the stripped ones.

Any suggestions on how to get those 2 stripped screws out would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[Gabob]

With a needle file or dremel tool. Cut a screwdriver slot in the hex head. I have also cut the slot with a hacksaw

[Zane71464]

...one thing too you might try, is to try a torx bit in the hex head as they sometimes will grab in as with different sizes.

[johnlives4christ]

take an allen wrench that is just a tad too big and file each of the six sides so that they are at a light taper. cut off the bent end. then take the tapered end and drive it into the screw head with a hammer. it should cut into the hole and get a bite allowing you to turn it out with a pair of vice grips

[old semperfi]

so far you have been given good advise.i only have one suggestion,sears makes a set of screw removers that may work.they cost about 20.00 if i remember right and you can use them over and over.the eonly other thing you may try and you must be very careful,is to heat the screw with a pencil type torch to help loosen. old semperfi

[gunplumber]

If the scws are locked with a chemical, I use a soldering iron placed on the head to heat it and melt the substance holding the scw. If no chemical is present on the ones you got out, heat should not be used. The center of the scw can be drilled out to ease pressure on the threads and a slot can be cut into the head with a Dremel and very small diamond cutter or carbide bit. If rust is seen, place a driver bit onn the scw and "tap" it 30 or 40 times; do not hit it hard but set up a vibratation. I do this a lot on stuck scws before I drill the center out). Be sure the driver fits the slot and when you go to turn it, "snap" it around and don't dink with it. Other than that, it can be drilled out and retapped which is a pain in the buttocks.

[LDBennett]

Drill out the screw's head with successively bigger drill bits until the head comes off. You can they lift the ring off what remains of the screws. If the remainder of the screws won't come out easily (hacksaw a slot or use a vise grip on the protruding remains of the screw.... if LocTited use the heat from a soldering iron to loosen the LocTite's grip) then just get a new set of rings.

I am just repeating what gunplumber said, actually.

LDBennett

[wpshooter]

Everyone keeps mentioning using a dremel tool to cut slots in the screws' hex head so that a regular flat edge screw driver might possibly be used to turn the screw, but what type of attachment on a dremel tool would allow you to cut 2 slots one opposite each other on the hex head, so that you could insert a flat edge screw driver in it.

All of the bits that I have with the dremel drill that I have are for basically drilling round holes not straight/line slots or am I supposed to be so good & STEADY that I can drill a straight line across the edge of the hex head and then another slot on the opposite side (without drilling a bunch of holes in the scope itself) ? Am I missing something here ?

Thanks.

[grcsat]

What you need is the dremel " cut off tool" this consists of a mandrel and a cut off wheel. They are actuly quite cheap and one of the best tools that dremel has.
What you do next is just cut a slot straight across the head of the screw .
Then use a thin bladed screw driver to un screw the messed up screw.

[LDBennett]

Unless the screw head protrudes above the surface of the ring there is no way to make a slot for a screw driver.

If it is the rings you want to save (the screws are already toast) just drill out the screw head until it sticks on the drill and breaks off the screw body. With the heads gone you only have to pull the top ring off. The screw bodies will be left protruding above the rings mating surface where you can attempt to slot them. The screw bodies may just come out by grasping the screw body with pliers.

LDBennett

[Brer Rabbit]

Put some 5 Min epoxy on the end of a allen wrench and put it into the screw. after it dries it should be strong enough to remove the screw.

Brer Rabbit

[BETH]

sounds like someone used loc tight

[Jim K]

It sounds like the problem is in scope ring screws, which means that if all else fails, there is an easy (if somewhat expensive) fix. Simply cut off the ring and buy a new set.

And do NOT use Allen screws, ever, on anything. If you can't get TORX screws, plain old slot heads are better than Allens. Same goes for grip screws.

Jim

[wpshooter]

Originally Posted by LDBennett

Unless the screw head protrudes above the surface of the ring there is no way to make a slot for a screw driver.

If it is the rings you want to save (the screws are already toast) just drill out the screw head until it sticks on the drill and breaks off the screw body. With the heads gone you only have to pull the top ring off. The screw bodies will be left protruding above the rings mating surface where you can attempt to slot them. The screw bodies may just come out by grasping the screw body with pliers.

LDBennett

LD:

Yes you are correct. The screw head is NOT above the flat surface of the top of the ring. So, I see no way a slot could be cut into the hex head unless someone had a microscope to work with and a surgeon's hands.

First, I am about the try what the other poster suggested by putting some super glue in the hex opening and then sick an allen wrench in it and see what it might do after it dries.

If that does not work then maybe I will try your suggestion regarding drilling on the screw head.

Thanks.

[Jim K]

You can also try drilling the head then using a easy-out. I hate the guy who decided to use Allen screws on those. I used to throw them away and replace them with slot heads (that was before Torx, or at least before I knew about them).

Jim

[gunplumber]

I have a tool by SMC (I think that's the brand) that looks like a small cigar which you hold like a pencil and is used for wood carving, glass etching and metal engraving. It accepts very small bits made from carbide or diamond. I have used it too many times to count to remove broken scws that were below the surface by cutting slots in the head. The smallest collet that comes with your Dremel kit will take these bits. The SMC tool turns the bits at 400,000 rpm (not a typo) with 40lbs of air. While it is a fairly exp system, the bits cost about 3.00 ea if I recall. Ads for this system can be found in several gun and outdoor magazines. These tiny bits have been absolute life savers on several repairs.

[wpshooter]

Originally Posted by gunplumber

I have a tool by SMC (I think that's the brand) that looks like a small cigar which you hold like a pencil and is used for wood carving, glass etching and metal engraving. It accepts very small bits made from carbide or diamond. I have used it too many times to count to remove broken scws that were below the surface by cutting slots in the head. The smallest collet that comes with your Dremel kit will take these bits. The SMC tool turns the bits at 400,000 rpm (not a typo) with 40lbs of air. While it is a fairly exp system, the bits cost about 3.00 ea if I recall. Ads for this system can be found in several gun and outdoor magazines. These tiny bits have been absolute life savers on several repairs.

Do you have a picture of one of these or a link to it ?

Are you saying that this is something that can be used with any Dremel tool ?

Whatever this is, it is going to have to be awfully small and accurate to cut a slot on the side of a hex head screw in a gun's ring set without the risk of possibly damaging both the ring set and also possibly the scope that the ring is installed on.

The head of these screws are only about 3/8 of an inch across.

Thanks.

[Jim K]

I think those tiny bits are also called dental burrs; you can get them from any dental supply or through your friendly dentist and they are not too expensive. And yes, you could use one to cut a slot in a recessed screw, though I still think an easy out would do the job easier.

Jim

[wpshooter]

Originally Posted by Jim K

I think those tiny bits are also called dental burrs; you can get them from any dental supply or through your friendly dentist and they are not too expensive. And yes, you could use one to cut a slot in a recessed screw, though I still think an easy out would do the job easier.

Jim

Jim:

Thanks for your reply.

Briefly, what is an easy out ?

I will see what Google finds.

Thanks.

[gunplumber]

Go to www.scmsystems.com. In shop time, one half-hour of time spent at this would have paid for a new ring set and a whole lot less consternation...........

[wpshooter]

Originally Posted by gunplumber

Go to www.scmsystems.com. In shop time, one half-hour of time spent at this would have paid for a new ring set and a whole lot less consternation...........

I agree. But around here at least, qualified gunsmiths to do something like this is like hunting for hens' teeth and even when you can find one, it might take you six months to get them to do something like this.

Would be glad to use or buy a new set of rings BUT a new set would do me no good if I can't get this one off of the scope first.

Thanks.

[Zane71464]

On your rings, where the top's screw to the bottom part of the rings, have you got much gap to get to the screws themselves?

[Zane71464]

What I'm asking, if you have a gap such as in the picture, take a cutting devise such as a coping saw, small file, etc. and cut those screws off! If you have enough gap?

[LDBennett]

Guys!!!! Just drill the stinking heads off. It's not rocket science.

The rings wont be damaged and it will take a few minutes. The existing rounded out allen bolt hole on the screw head will keep the drills centered so the ring itself will not be damaged. Just use successively bigger drills and only drill down to the depth of the head. The head will break off the body and be stuck on the drill bit. The tough part MAY be getting the screw body out of the existing lower ring but at least you can put new rings on the scope.

LDBennett

[Jim K]

Hi, wpshooter,

An easyout (formal name: Headless Screw Extractor) is a hard steel tool that is tapered and has LEFT hand threads. After you drill a hole in the screw or bolt, you put in the easyout and as you turn the easyout to the left (to remove the screw), the taper and the left hand threads cause the easyout to dig in deeper and turn the screw. With Allen head screws, the easyout may be all that is needed as the normal hole is deep enough for the easyout to grab. They usually come in sets but I think Brownells has them individually; the index has them under SCREWS, Extractor.

Jim