H&R Model 922 Bantam Weight - Missing Cylinder

[Saibot]

Hello, I'm new here.
I have an H&R Model 922 Bantam Weight .22 pistol.
It is in terrible condition, missing the cylinder, and is not functioning correctly.
The trigger is only pulled back along with the hammer while you have the gun pointing upwards.
I'd like to get the gun working again.
I need to clean it, get a new cylinder, and fix the problem mentioned above.
Does anyone know where I could get a new cylinder for the gun?
Not that they're needed, but I think I found some replacement grips here - http://www.tombstonegrips.com/mm5/me...tegory_Code=HR
Any tips on cleaning off the rust would be appreciated as well.
All the information on the gun should be in the pictures below.
Thanks in advance.

Pictures,

[b.goforth]

N= 1953, all i can furnish is information about the revolver not in finding parts.

MODEL 922 DOUBLE ACTION FIRST MODEL LARGE SOLID FRAME 22 RIMFIRE CALIBER ------------------------------------------------1927-1937
9 shot cylinder capacity, pull pin cylinder release, blue finish, 6 inch octagon barrel, two piece over size walnut grips saw handle shaped, marked with company name and address on top of barrel, right side of barrel H&R 922 and caliber on left side of barrel.
First Variation 1927-1930 serial number range 119600*-145000*(estimate)
Second Variation 1931 DIFFERENCE: new grip shape (saw handle shape eliminated) serial number range 145000*-160000*(estimate)
Third Variation 1932-1937 DIFFERENCE: new safety cylinder, serial number range 160000*-171000*(estimate)
VALUE: 100%=$205 60%=$75 add 40% premium for 1st Variation and 20% premium for 2nd and 3rd Variations

MODEL 922 DOUBLE ACTION SECOND MODEL LARGE SOLID FRAME 22 RIMFIRE CALIBER (birds head grip frame) ----------------1938-1952
9 shot cylinder capacity, pull pin cylinder release, blue finish, 6 inch octagon barrel, one piece over size walnut grips saw handle shaped, also may be found with one piece plastic grips. Marked with company name and address on top of barrel, right side of barrel H&R 922 and caliber on left side of barrel.
First Variation 1938-1939 DIFFERENCE; new grip frame and round barrel, serial number range 171000*-192000*(estimate)
Second Variation 1940- 1947 DIFFERENCE; same as 4th variation except letter code prefix to serial number A thru H
Third Variation 1948-1949 DIFFERENCE; a new barrel length, serial number letter codes I and J
Fourth Variation 1949-1952 DIFFERENCE; all-in-one cartridge extraction system, serial number letter codes J thru M
Fifth Variation 1952 models for M922 Camper and M922 Bantam weight
VALUE: 100%=$195 60%=$55 add 20% premium for 1st & 2nd Variations

MODEL 922 BANTAM WEIGHT---------------------1952-1961
Solid Frame, Double Action, Pull Pin Cylinder Release, Round Butt, 22 Long Rifle Caliber, 9 shot, Blue Finish, Barrel Length 2 ½ inches only
VALUE: 100%=$215 60%=$95

MODEL 922 CAMPER -----------------------------1952-1955
Solid Frame, Double Action, Pull Pin Cylinder Release, Round Butt, 22 Long Rifle Caliber, 9 shot, Blue Finish, Barrel Length 4 inches only
VALUE: 100%=$215 60%=$95

MODEL 922 THIRD MODEL (FEATURES NEW FRAME)-------------1953-1961
Solid Frame, Double Action, Pull Pin Cylinder Release, Round & Square Butt, 22 Long Rifle Caliber, 9 shot, Blue Finish, Barrel Lengths 2 ½, 4 & 6 inches
VALUE: 100%=$195 60%=$85

MODEL 922 FOURTH MODEL (TRANSFER BAR IGNITION) -------1973-1979
Solid Frame, Double Action, Pull Pin Cylinder Release, Round & Square Butt, 22 Long Rifle Caliber, 9 shot, Blue Finish, Barrel Lengths 2½, 4 & 6 inches
VALUE: 100%=$200 60%=$95

bill

[Jim Hauff]

Saibot,

Check out the Numrich Gun Parts parts listing here:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...spx?catid=8014

You want the cylinder for 'K' and on serial prefix. Cylinders for all three frame sizes are the same for this model. There is also a "blown-up" diagram and they list a down loadable schematic.
The rusting is pretty drastic on that piece. You may wish to first start by soaking the whole thing in penetrating oil of some kind to loosen the rust - then scrubbing with 'OOOO' (four ought) steel wool. Any blueing that's left will remain with this treatment, but I'm pretty sure you're going to find considerable loss of original finish and probably some pitting. You may want to hand buff the entire thing to white then try Reblueing.
Good luck. Merry Christmas

Here's a pic of what yours should look like (well almost) after you restore it.

[Saibot]

Thanks for all the info.
It looks like they only have the center pin in stock.
So I guess I'll have to wait for the cylinder.
Should I take the whole gun apart to find the broken piece?
Would it be a good idea to just replace all the small parts with new ones?
Also, how do you remove the pins from the gun?
Do you just push them out in a certain direction?
Thanks.

[RJay]

In my opinion, if you take the gun apart nothing but rusty and corroded parts will fall out. In the condition that gun is in, the barrel must be in worst shape. There comes a time in a guns life when it is best for all concerned that it be "put down". It would be the humane thing to do.

[Saibot]

I managed to take most of it apart.
Below is a picture of everything I got out of the gun.
Are any of the parts missing or look broken?
Also, how do I remove the barrel?
I already took out the pin, is it threaded?
Thanks.

[Jim Hauff]

Barrels are threaded into the receiver - I know the older ones had "clockwise" threads - don't know about these more modern ones??????? Since these have right hand rifling, I'd assume that they are also "clockwise" threaded (looking from the front/muzzle end.) Compare your parts with the schematic offered by Numrich - that will give you the answer to "do I have all the parts?"
Good luck AND KEEP sending updates - unhandy klutzes like me, like seeing all those pieces lying around. LOL