Does anybody know how to adjust a Ruger M77V trigger?

[polishshooter]

My "new to me" Swift was made in 1999, and has the Ruger adjustable trigger. A previous owner has it set pretty LIGHT, it can't be more than 10-12 oz, but it definitely has a noticeable creep.

I don't really care if I make it heavier, I just want it CRISP.

It looks like it has three set screws above each other, two smaller, and one larger. What adjusts what?

I am partial to my Rock River two stage match trigger on my AR, which after the take-up breaks really clean at about 4-5 lbs.

But my buddy has a Savage 112 22-250 worked over by JD Jones that breaks at 9-10 oz and feels like a THIN icicle breaking when it breaks, no movement at all, just apply pressure and it BREAKS...

Maybe someday I will take this rifle to JD Jones and let him work his magic on it, but until then, can I get it a little crisper?

It isn't BAD now, and I could get used to it, and after a while I got it mastered enough to shoot some decent groups the first time I took it out, but I hope somebody knows how to make it break more cleanly without all the creep.

[JLA]

HEEEEELIIIIX???? This ones for you bro...

[Helix_FR]

Yeppers, but I'm trying to find a image of the set up so you know exactly what I'm talking about. Unfortunately to get the super crisp trigger on them you need to do 2 things, 1 make the sear engagement a perfect 90 degrees to the trigger and 2, the edge of the trigger engagement surface to the sear needs to be stoned at a 45 degree angle. (very very small amount, like I need a magnifying hood to see it.
Let me get a good image of one, then I'll get you through it.

[JLA]

good man.

[Helix_FR]

There is not a single photo of that system anywhere, its all MKII triggers and aftermarket but verbally here it goes.

The trigger weight adjustment screw (or trigger return spring screw) is the one on the bottom that you can see with the stock on. This this increases your overall trigger weight.
If you remove the stock and expose the trigger group you will see 2 more screws. The back side screw (towards the butt pad side) is the trigger engagement screw. This is the one that will eliminate all creep but also is the most detrimental in getting right to keep the gun safe. The screw on the front of the group is the over travel screw, (ruger did away with this screw first for some reason). So here is the low down on getting these triggers right and safe. First, back out the overtravel screw about 5 turns. Get it out of the way. Next lock the bolt (cocked safe off, unloaded obviously) and slowly turn the sear engagement screw until you hear the click of it dropping the firing pin. That means that the sear will no longer engage the trigger. Keep it that way for now. Next adjust the trigger weight screw until its about as light as you can get it but still have the trigger spring back. (sounds like yours is there already) Now back out the trigger engagement screw 1 full turn and then cycle the bolt. It should hold and not slam fire. If it slam fires, turn the engagement screw back out (ccw) 1/4 turn at a time till it holds. Holding? good, now back it out 1/2 turn. The key is to get the sear engagement .020 of the trigger. OK moving on. close the bolt (the gun will now be cocked) and pull the trigger. The trigger weight will be super light. Continue doing this until the weight is were you like it. 4 lbs for hunting rifles is as light as I will go. Got it? Now open the bolt and slam it shut 20 times. And I mean slam it. If the firing pin drops ever in those 20 times, back out the engagement screw another 1/4 turn (ccw). Try again till it never drops. (.020 is a good engagement and I have never had a issue).
Got it? Alright, now this is the easiest to adjust but also the most critical to get right. Turn the over travel screw in (cc) 5 turns. close the bolt and pull the trigger. Did it fire? Yes (probably) from that point start turning in the overtravel screw 1/4 turn at a time till it won't fire when you pull the trigger. And let me tell you, its either on or off. Once you get were a trigger pull will not fire the gun, back out the overtravel screw 1/2 turn. Check and see if it will fire now. (it should). Slam test it again.
That is the optimum setting for the Ruger adjustable triggers. Some people like a little more overtravel. I don't, I feel it adds to the weight (even though it don't its just perceived as extra). Creep can be removed even more by turning in (cc) the engagement screw but if you do that, slam test it 20 times before you commit. Nail polish the screws in place.

[JLA]

Perfectly understandable Helix. I knew you was the man for the job!

[Helix_FR]

I love that gun and yes I'm still jealous.
Please note to visitors, this is the old trigger settings, the new MKII is a different animal and can't be adjusted unless you know what the hell your doing with a stone. Get a timney or a gunsmith

[polishshooter]

THANKS Helix!

Every diagram I found on the net involved stoning and springs in places I don't have, and none of them showed the three adjustment screws!

Now I have stoned a BUNCH of triggers sears and disconnectors for my .45 and feel comfortable with it, it is a whole 'nother animal and if I screw up I am out maybe $12-$20 for a new sear or disconnector and I always had another hammer laying around...I didn't want to screw this one up.

Like I said, I COULD get used to it as is, it just doesn't break like an icicle like I like, more like a stale uncooked rice noodle

Even with all the .45s I've done and others I've shot, I have shot some 1- 3/4-2 pound pulls with creep that I thought were crappy, and some 5-6 lb triggers that broke crisp and clean....weight doesn't bother me much, just the break.


Now if I COULD get both in my Varmint gun, a 12 oz pull or so that was CRISP, I'd be ecstatic!

[polishshooter]

LOL, over it's lifetime my .45 started with a standard stock hammer, then a commander hammer for IPSC, then back to a standard long tang when it became a 6" compensated NRA Action Pistol gun with optics, then back to another Ed Brown skeleton commander hammer with it's last trigger job when it transposed BACK into a 5" carry gun after I quit competing with it

My original .45 I built in 1983 or so rattles when you shake it a little (a LOT?) more than it did when I built it after somewhere between 150-200k rounds through it but I'd still stake my life on it.

Now that I think about I have fitted as many new BARRELS to it as I have HAMMERS....

[jlloyd73]

Helix...you are too darn smart

[Helix_FR]

Originally Posted by jlloyd73

Helix...you are too darn smart

Thank you... I spend much of my time studying actions. Unfortunately I don't shoot much because of it, except other peoples guns to test fire.