|
![]() |
|
|
TheFirearmsForum.com
FOUNDED: February 9, 2001 |
If you prefer to make a donation by check,
send an email to Support for the mailing address. |
|
|
#1 |
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 12
|
This one looks to be all original with matching numbers right down to the screws. The wood is near perfect except a couple of curious dents near the cartouches on the right side of the stock. (Rack marks?) Several cartouches also appear on the stock behind the trigger guard. Regiment info is stamped on the butt plate. The bore, I hesitate to say, appears to be unfired. Absolutely flawless...brite and shiney like a mirror! The action is extremely smooth and tight. There is, however, some light striations of rust on the bands and trigger guard. I think I've found a bayonet for this gun for $150.
So..... How can I safely remove the little bit of rust showing? Would purchasing the bayonet be wise? What's a ballpark value, as is? here's some pics.... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for looking.....Jerry
-->
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,116
|
Rust: Use the end grain of a stick of wood along with some oil.
Bayonet: At least two basic bayonet types fit the 71/84. The best looking one is the long type with an all brass handle. These usualy cost way more than $150.00, a good scabard is rare. The short bayonet is the one you may have found. I like to have a bayonet for each military rifle. Bayonets only go up in value, I see no reason not to buy one for your rifle. Most of the like new examples of the 71/84 came into the US from South America around 30 years ago. A cash poor little country bought a bunch of these after Germany switched to the more modern M1888 and 1898 rifles. Good for us, they did not get much use. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Advanced Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Occupied Territory Of Kalifornia
Posts: 1,834
|
For the rust, let the part you want to clean soak overnight with some Kroil or transmission fluid on it. Find an older(pure copper) penny and use the lip on the edge to scrape the rust off. A piece of heavy gauge copper wire works good with a chisel point ground on the end.
The copper is hard enough to scrape the rust off without scratching the steel, and leaves the bluing untouched. ![]() |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|