Worn out H&R 922

[Jesse17]

I was told that if I posted this gun here, someone by the name of Jim Hauff would be along to tell me all about it. I hope so


Here's the H&R 922 that I learned to shoot with about 27 or 28 years ago.


You can see here the lead stuck to the frame where the cylinder has been over rotating to the point that it allows the bullet to graze the edge of the barrel.

I was planning just making a wall hanger out of it, as it has more sentimental value to me than shooting value, but some guys on another forum got me thinking about fixing it. It seems that the problem is the piece that protrudes through the bottom of the frame and indexes the cylinder, is worn down on both sides, and allows the cylinder to move back and forth a little. I'm wondering how hard of a repair this would be, and what part I should be looking for on the web? Would it be a trigger Assembly? or another part?

Also, I'm curious if any of you can tell me the year it was made, what it's worth, and any other info you might be willing to share.

The serial number is M563xx.

Thanks in advance,
Jesse

[Jim Hauff]

Jesse,
Welcome to the forum.
Your 922 with a letter prefix of 'M' to the serial number was made in 1952, it's the 8th Variation of the 1st Model with the NEW style round butt grip frame. It is called the "Bantam" because of its size.
From what you describe the "cylinder bolt" or as it's listed, the cylinder stop assembly (see here for exploded diagram and parts list: http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...spx?catid=8014) is worn out.
Depending upon how handy you are, you may want to buy the part and take the gun to a gunsmith for replacement (that would be my personal choice, because I'm not handy with the small parts and reassembly.)
Value of your gun in current condition about $75; fixed to working condition and in what looks to be v.good + condition, around $125 to $150 RETAIL.

[Jim Hauff]

Jesse,
Your 922 with a letter prefix of 'M' to the serial number was made in 1952, it's the 8th Variation of the 1st Model with the NEW style round butt grip frame. It is called the "Bantam" because of its size.
From what you describe the "cylinder bolt" or as it's listed, the cylinder stop assembly (see here for exploded diagram and parts list: http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...spx?catid=8014) is worn out.
Depending upon how handy you are, you may want to buy the part and take the gun to a gunsmith for replacement (that would be my personal choice, because I'm not handy with the small parts and reassembly.)
Value of your gun in current condition about $75; fixed to working condition and in what looks to be v.good + condition, around $125 to $150 RETAIL.
Attachment 46561

Your cylinder should be equipped with the "All-in-One" ejections system - pushing on the muzzle end of the cylinder bushing will eject the central extractor and extract all 9 spent cartridges at one time:

Attachment 46562

[Jim Hauff]

Hey, what the heck?

[Jesse17]

Jim,

You're right on schedule as promised by Hawg Thank you very much for the information. I believe I will go ahead and order that part from the link you posted. I would sure like to change a $5 part myself, but am kind of leery since I have no idea what it's like in there once I start knocking out pins, and I have a hell of a time following those exploded diagrams. So I may go ahead and take your advice about taking it to a gun smith.

Again thank you VERY much for the info & quick reply!

[Jesse17]

Originally Posted by Jim Hauff

Hey, what the heck?

That's OK, I know what you mean. Yes, you can use the cylinder pin to eject all 9 shells at once. Thanks again.

[Jim Hauff]

Jesse,
You're welcome, glad to have helped and thanks for thanking.

The "what the heck?" comment was in response to something I did to screw up the second posting, which I intended to be an edit of the first - too many distractions and not enough active brain cells, I guess.

[ozo]

It's alright Jim.....
Welcome to the 'what the hell did I/am I doing' club Brother.

[Hawg]

Originally Posted by ozo

It's alright Jim.....
Welcome to the 'what the hell did I/am I doing' club Brother.

Can I join?

[NGIB]

I have "senior moments" quite often...

[rhmc24]

Fixing H&Rs, IJs, etc is an ideal DIY 'gunsmith' job, lots of guns needing fixing and parts can be found. When a H&R gets to need the services of a 'pro' gunsmith, it can quickly get as expensive as the gun value. For example, buy it cheap for $75, spend $25 for a part/s & S&H, pay gunsmith $25-75 (if you can find one) to put it all together - all with the possibility you got the wrong part and are back to square one.

[45Auto]

Prior to replacing parts, it's possible that the revolver is not working properly because it's got 59 years of gunk built up in the action. I'd ask your gunsmith to take it appart and clean it properly. A good cleaning might get your revolver working again with no new parts needed.

If you do need a cylinder bolt and the right part does not make it to your gunsmith, it's possible to file down the cylinder bolt to make it square and then stretch it back up far enough to engage the cylinder again.

[Jim Hauff]

Originally Posted by ozo

It's alright Jim.....
Welcome to the 'what the hell did I/am I doing' club Brother.

Duh? Where am I and what day is this? Do I get a rememb-membership card?
LOL

[Jesse17]

OK, I replaced the cylinder stop, but didn't notice until I was putting it in that the new part is missing a set of pins that the old part had....

(new part in front)

The pins seem to provide an anchor point to the spring pushes the whole part straight up into the cylinder, rather than it pivoting on the set of pins in the middle of the part. ( I hope that made sense )

So I've got two question. This fixed the slop problem in the cylinder, but I'm not sure if the new part is functioning correctly. If you just barley rest your finger on the trigger it drops the cylinder stop down enough that the cylinder will free-wheel. I'm thinking I need to call and try to get the right part, or is it suppose to be that easy to disengage the stop from the cylinder?

My other question is the trigger doesn't return to the forward position. It goes about half way, then you have to help it forward. It's been 5 years since I've fired this gun, but I think I remember it having this problem but only once in a while. What part do I need to order to fix this?

[Jim Hauff]

Jesse,
I hate to say this, but I think Numrich sent you the wrong part. H&R made at least 7 variations of the 922 in the 1st Model series and several more in the 2nd Model - especially when the move to transfer bar ignition system occurred. As a result, there are a few differences in the lock work during the 1925 to 1986 time period.
There's a couple guys on here that have experience inside these guns - as for me I'm merely a collector and don't dabble.
The second problem is definitey a misplaced, broken or kinked trigger return spring. Again, there are several variations, but all of them bear on the front spur of the trigger, inside the frame. Another thing for an experienced "insider" to guide you on.

[Jim K]

Suggestion: Return the part you got, and send along the picture of the old part. That way GPC can get you the right part.

Jim

[Jesse17]

Thank you Jim, and Jim.

I knew it was the wronge part once I got the old one out, but figured I'd see how it worked since I already had it apart. I will call and order the right part (hopefully) this week.

[Jim Hauff]

You got it. You're welcome and thanks for thanking.
p.s. No slam against Numrich - they have a huge inventory of H&R parts which they pruchased back in 1986, and from what I hear/read - much of it has never been catalogued and in some cases is in sealed boxes.
ALSO, they do not have the information necessary to break down the parts by Year of Manufacture, nor do they recognize all of the Models and Variations within models.
Bill G. (and I) was (am) a contributor on their "public" forum and in many cases the company moderators suggest that e-mail inquiries concerning the age, model, variation, etc. of H&R and IJ firearms be directed to that public forum - so that they (the employee part picker) could figure out which part(s) to send based upon "expert" evaluation.
Jim K's suggestion to send a picture, dimensional drawing or the actual part to them for replacement by the correct part is what Numrich often suggests.
e.g. I once ordered a frame mounted firing pin for a 1934-35 Sportsman and was sent one for a post 1973 frame mount for use with the transfer bar system. Not the company's fault - they have millions of parts to go through.

[Old Gun Guy]

Originally Posted by Jesse17

OK, I replaced the cylinder stop, but didn't notice until I was putting it in that the new part is missing a set of pins that the old part had....

(new part in front)

The pins seem to provide an anchor point to the spring pushes the whole part straight up into the cylinder, rather than it pivoting on the set of pins in the middle of the part. ( I hope that made sense )

So I've got two question. This fixed the slop problem in the cylinder, but I'm not sure if the new part is functioning correctly. If you just barley rest your finger on the trigger it drops the cylinder stop down enough that the cylinder will free-wheel. I'm thinking I need to call and try to get the right part, or is it suppose to be that easy to disengage the stop from the cylinder?

My other question is the trigger doesn't return to the forward position. It goes about half way, then you have to help it forward. It's been 5 years since I've fired this gun, but I think I remember it having this problem but only once in a while. What part do I need to order to fix this?

Jesse17,
Send me your mailing address and I'll send you a 2-pin cylinder stop, and a trigger spring at no charge. If they work, you are home free!
Old Gun Guy

[Jim Hauff]

"Jesse17,
Send me your mailing address and I'll send you a 2-pin cylinder stop, and a trigger spring at no charge. If they work, you are home free!
Old Gun Guy"

You can't beat that offer! Hat's off to OLD GUN!

[Jesse17]

Originally Posted by Old Gun Guy

Jesse17,
Send me your mailing address and I'll send you a 2-pin cylinder stop, and a trigger spring at no charge. If they work, you are home free!
Old Gun Guy

Dang it I need to check this place more often. Thanks for the offer, but I already ordered the parts before seeing your post. But, that was really awesome of you! Thank you!

[David2van]

I have run into the same type of problem with a 922 pistol. The cylinder over rotates at times and the gun locks up. It does not do this all the time but I think it is dangerous for it to over rotate like that. I pulled the trigger out and found out the this is different form the pictures I can find. This one has the flat mainspring. The cylinder stop seems to be part of the trigger and the stop seems to be filed on and worn. Do you think replacing the trigger and thus the cylinder stop will fix this problem? also my ser number is D 2338 do you know when this was made? Thanks, Dave

[Jim Hauff]

D = 1943!!!!!!!!!!!! This, if that is truly the serial number and it is truly a 922, is a very scarce gun. Common "knowledge" is that H&R didn't make this model during the WW2* years??? Can you post pics?

*or at least, didn't make many of anything other than military goods, firearms and national security items...

BTW - I believe your assesment of the problem is correct and can be fixed with parts from Numrich - but first we need to establish what you have - model #, variation, year(s) of manufacture - to insure you get the correct parts.
There's other gents onboard here who have much more experience "internalizing" this type of firearm.

The attached pic is of a 922 made in 1940, your 1943 piece should be almost identical....???

[David2van]

Here are some pictures.






As you can see the cylinder stop looks worn. Tell me what you think.

[Jim Hauff]

Yep, it looks well worn - it should be rectagular on the end - not pointed.
REQUEST - still haven't resolved the serial number starting with "D" issue in my head. Would you please post of picture of the serial number stamped into the front grip strap?