Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver - The Firearms Forum

marcodelat · 08-09-2010, 11:21 AM

OK, I've removed the quill, or as IJ sometimes called it in their catalog the "Base Pin", from several topbreak revolvers before.

Usually pretty easy after driving out the pin, a little Liquid Wrench or PB blaster and it comes with just a little "persuation" - pulling, gently tapping on the side, etc.

Now, I have this H&R .32 that I have soaked in kerosene, Liquid Wrenched, and PB Blasted it... and the thing will just not budge a mm.

Any suggestion?

thomasray · 05-06-2011, 05:55 PM

Leave it be.

Jim K · 05-06-2011, 10:07 PM

Those quills, even the pinned ones, were never intended to be removed as a part of normal cleaning, so should be left alone unless one is so badly damaged that it has to be replaced, and then, once the replacement is in hand, brute force can be used if necessary.

Jim

eweisner · 06-27-2011, 09:42 AM

I have been doing a mild restore on a H&R New Premier 1st Model 3rd Variation, nothing fancy just a few replacement parts. I had it all put baack together and almost ready to try out when the Barrel Catch Spring broke in pieces. I've ordered a new one and in looking things over find that the Barrel Catch Spring Screw is locked up, or rusted in. Any advice on how to loosen things up?

Jim Hauff · 06-27-2011, 10:28 AM

Soak it in penetrating oil (KROIL works great), let sit for a day or two - try working the screw out with a 'properly' sized screw driver. That screw has been in place for over 70 years - and subjected to back blast from the forcing cone during firing - it may take some patience and constant soaking to get it free. I can't think of any other way to remove it, short of drilling it out and retapping - but then you'll probably bugger up the latch itself.?????????

eweisner · 11-03-2011, 12:21 PM

I wasn't notified of your response so I moved forward. I put a few brain cells together and thought Heat! Notice I said a few brain cells? It worked great bolt came right out. Only when I took it I noticed that I had opened up the quill and now no matter what I do it isn't correcteverything looks ok but it is extremely tight. So now I need to remove and replace the quill. Question of the day...How?

Jim K · 11-03-2011, 09:02 PM

Those quills were often rolled sheet metal and can split. If you can't get it back together with some careful tapping with a light plastic hammer, then you will probably have to take some fine grit emery cloth and give it the "shoeshine" treatment. If you do that, remove the cylinder drag spring (if there is one) first and put it back after the cylinder spins freely on the quill.

Jim

08-09-2010, 11:21 AM	#1
marcodelat V.I.P. Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 128	Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver OK, I've removed the quill, or as IJ sometimes called it in their catalog the "Base Pin", from several topbreak revolvers before. Usually pretty easy after driving out the pin, a little Liquid Wrench or PB blaster and it comes with just a little "persuation" - pulling, gently tapping on the side, etc. Now, I have this H&R .32 that I have soaked in kerosene, Liquid Wrenched, and PB Blasted it... and the thing will just not budge a mm. Any suggestion? -->

05-06-2011, 05:55 PM	#2
thomasray V.I.P. Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Columbia River Posts: 79	Re: Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver Leave it be. __________________ a farting horse will never tire and a farting man is the one to hire.

05-06-2011, 10:07 PM	#3
Jim K Advanced Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 6,408	Re: Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver Those quills, even the pinned ones, were never intended to be removed as a part of normal cleaning, so should be left alone unless one is so badly damaged that it has to be replaced, and then, once the replacement is in hand, brute force can be used if necessary. Jim

06-27-2011, 09:42 AM	#4
eweisner Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 2	Re: Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver I have been doing a mild restore on a H&R New Premier 1st Model 3rd Variation, nothing fancy just a few replacement parts. I had it all put baack together and almost ready to try out when the Barrel Catch Spring broke in pieces. I've ordered a new one and in looking things over find that the Barrel Catch Spring Screw is locked up, or rusted in. Any advice on how to loosen things up?

06-27-2011, 10:28 AM	#5
Jim Hauff Advanced Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Lehigh Valley, PA Posts: 2,980	Re: Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver Soak it in penetrating oil (KROIL works great), let sit for a day or two - try working the screw out with a 'properly' sized screw driver. That screw has been in place for over 70 years - and subjected to back blast from the forcing cone during firing - it may take some patience and constant soaking to get it free. I can't think of any other way to remove it, short of drilling it out and retapping - but then you'll probably bugger up the latch itself.????????? __________________ Jim Hauff ~ H&R Collector In Memory of Bill Goforth and Jim Ritchie

11-03-2011, 12:21 PM	#6
eweisner Member Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 2	Re: Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver I wasn't notified of your response so I moved forward. I put a few brain cells together and thought Heat! Notice I said a few brain cells? It worked great bolt came right out. Only when I took it I noticed that I had opened up the quill and now no matter what I do it isn't correcteverything looks ok but it is extremely tight. So now I need to remove and replace the quill. Question of the day...How?

11-03-2011, 09:02 PM	#7
Jim K Advanced Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 6,408	Re: Removing Quill (Base Pin) from topbreak revolver Those quills were often rolled sheet metal and can split. If you can't get it back together with some careful tapping with a light plastic hammer, then you will probably have to take some fine grit emery cloth and give it the "shoeshine" treatment. If you do that, remove the cylinder drag spring (if there is one) first and put it back after the cylinder spins freely on the quill. Jim