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1949 Ithaca 12 gauge, value?

11K views 13 replies 2 participants last post by  fuzebox40 
#1 · (Edited)
I took this in on the barter system not realy knowing its value. I found the Y.O.M. on the net by its serial number. I always like to know aproximate value when I can though. It's in good working condition but definitely looks its age. Very used. There's no sight at the muzzle so apparently the barrel was too long for someone, it's at 20 3/4" now. I've got the new sight and tap already, just havent put it on yet. Actualy I want to find out what the standard (actual) measurements are pulling from the receiver on stock barrels so I can recut if necesary to have a standard length, before I tap it. So if anyone happens to know the next closest pull off measurement to end of barrel and then distance back to bead sight, I'd apreciate that too.
Thanks, Terry.

Forgot to mention "model 37"
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hi fuzebox If it is the standard 37 featherlight (and that is what it looks like) It came with 26,28,30 inch barrels. The recever end that slides into the recever is 9/16 long.And from the end of barrel(muzzel) to the sight hole is 1/2 inch. This gun is a good shooter however with the shortend barrel it drops both the value and accuracy.You might look into replaceing the barrel they are not hard to come by. The 37 deerslayer came with a shorter barrel but it was made for slugs. also the 37 ultra fetherlight came with a 22 inch barrel. But the one you have is as i said was the standard.The standard is worth at 60%-$200.00.up to 100%-$600.00.This one if the stock is cracked (I think i can see one) and in it's cond. would be in the $50-$100 range.
 
#4 ·
goofy..thanks for the great info and if I can press for a bit more, I'm assuming it's standard because there's nothing telling me otherwise. It doesn't say featherlight anywhere either, is featherlight the standard? The barrel only gives the name and address, model, patent and serial number, and indicates 12 3/4 chamber and full choke. This being my first Ithaca I'm in discovery mode for this brand.
So it sounds like for it to be all it can be, it will need a barrel and stock to achieve a 60% $200 gun (and there is a crack on both sides). I've got maybe the $50 to a $100 in it that you sugest it's worth, I'm probably nearer $50 so that's good, but it would seem tuff not to hit $200 adding a barrel and stock. I'll have to watch for the deal.
Terry
 
#5 ·
Goodmorning Terry. 1st If you pm me with the ser.# I can tell ALOT more.I have hunted with a 37 sense i was 13.They are HARD hitters to your shoulder:eek: but are accurate as hell.I put on a riffled "hastings" barrel. Ithaca put all there info on the barrel.If it does not say featherlight on barrel then it is a early mod. but other then the ultralight they are all featherlight. Ithaca made other models later on but they were all built on the featherlight recevers some of them are featherlight ,Deerslayer,Turkeyslayers,Clasic,Skeet,Target,ultralight, and a couple more.I have gotten stocks from boyds(i do not know if they are still makeing them).I have gotten most of the parts i need from jack first they are really good at picking out of there stock what you want.They do have used stocks in good cond. and barrels. My shop is 15 miles from Ithaca so I see these guns ALL the time (must fix or work on 15 a year)I just got done restoreing 4 of them they bring in above $500 easy and are quick to sell.Does yours have a screw or a spring holding the primery shell stop on?(the one on the left).You have a gun that is worth fixing.Bird hunters love them but I can't count how many deer I have taken with mine.(I could not hit a bird if it was dead on the ground:D). Ithacas have great wood when they are stripped and finished with a oil the grain is gorgeous! Here are a couple i refinished.(wood stripped and finished with oil,hot blued, and so on)So I would sink in the money to fix yours you will be happy with it.
 

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#7 ·
Ok, I'm PMing the serial to ya.
As far as a screw or spring on pri. shell stop I'm not completely sure what I'm looking for there. I've only just started to disasemble the end of the magazine and arleady hit a snag. This is unlike others that I've broken down so I apply the "procede with caution" factor. Here's a couple pics if it helps but it has the magazine nut pin running through and locking it in from 90 deg. is the check screw, spring and cap. I've removed the screw and spring but the small pin (check spring cap) moves but won't back out to allow removal of the mag nut pin yet. Is this what you were refering to?
My camara's not to good for close-ups by the way.
 
#9 · (Edited)
That is one of the things that were changed.looks like you have gotten the mag. nut pin check screw and spring out did you get the mag. nut pin check spring cap out? this sits in a grove on the mag.nut pin if you do not have it out the pin can't come out It is what holds in the pin. after reading your post again i see you have not gotten it out soak it and try to use a needle or forsepts to pull it out if it is still tight make shure the nut pin is not tight one way or the other holding it in.And no what I was talking about is if you look on the bottem of the recever SEE PIC(the punch is pointing at it) there is a screw that holds in the spring shell stop (Be very carefull removeing this ) if you strip it you are screwed you will have to dill it out and use the spring add on that you see on some of the 37(unless you are very good with little drills and have a drill press) let me know if you still have trouble getting the mag pin out the spring cap should just fall out..
 

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#10 ·
I was actualy looking at that hole wondering what it was for, just because everything has a purpose, but I didn't notice it had a screw in there, I just wondered then moved on. But I blew the dust out, grabbed the tiny tools and carefuly got it out. It didn't want to come out but slow and strait with lots of preasure and, well you know. Also got the check spring cap out with a little solvent and the air hose.
I'm going to roll with your opinion and plan on restoring. My first inspection of the gun before bringing it home had me liking something about it though I wasn't sure what. I had to stick my fingers in it and figure out how it was feeding and ejecting through the same hole before I could put it down. Anyway I may be taking you up on your offer but naturaly I'll have to get the barrel first. I'll PM you for details as needed on that but right now while It's fresh in your mind, did the serial number happen to give clue to a specific barrel lengh or is any of those you mentioned just as well? And sorry for if ask too many questions but are they all interchangeable or are there any particulars I need to look for?
 
#11 ·
There is no real way to tell what length barrel it came with all three sizes available 26,28 and30 with any standard choke. As for the barrel being interchangeable yes I think they are but i do remember reading in one of my referance books about certain years were not (I have never ran into one that way) but I will check if there is a befor year that are not.These barrels had a bead sight not the plastic bar sight.When you are checking for the stock ask if they have the early that was hand checkerd.And as to asking to many questions don't wory about it :) It's not that often I get to give info. about a gun that I know so well.:D
 
#13 ·
Terry I checked on the barrel(i read for a couple of hours) found what i was looking for.NO YOUR BARREL IS NOT INTERCHANGEABLE:( The 37 that are ser.# below 855,000 (pre 1969) were fitted at the factory.So you need to find one that is pre 69. Or you can send it to ithaca arms ( there info. is on the internet) and they will put in a sleeve to except the new barrels.They also have the barrels including riffeld barrels.so when you are looking for a barrel you need to look for the pre.1969 and have a smith check it and set it right.I was reading the ithaca site and they say they will fit a new barrel at one price and bluing is included(it did not go into detail weather this was refering to the recever) but i would think so.I also came across places that sell the pre 69 barrels.(but i would check with jack first or gun parts first)while checking for a stock.....MIKE
 
#14 ·
Ok Mike, thanks for finding out on that, that makes a serious difference. I'm going to look into Ithaca's all-in-one price to, see if it's worth the convenience, but I'm bettin that route will be out of my budget. Gotta check it out though.
Also before buying a stock I'm going to see if this crack will close up with a clamp. If so I've seen good results with good quality epoxy where it hides almost perfectly. I have nothing to loose for trying and could save a buck. Spent my morning browsing for barrels, this added info takes some guess work out of it. Thanks a heap!
 
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