.22 Ruger Mark III Concern

Discussion in '.22-Rimfire Forum' started by dlee58, Dec 1, 2008.

  1. cranky cj

    cranky cj New Member

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    Well, I just finished field stripping mine and it took me quite a while to get it back together. I was frustrated but I fianlly figured it out, well, I put it back togehter several times and finally got it back together where the slide would pull all the way back.

    As far as shooting, great little gun. Perfect for everybody to learn on. My 9 yr old shoots it regularly as does the 11 yr old.
  2. jlbpa

    jlbpa New Member

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    What's happening to this country? What's so difficult about assembling a ruger mark pistol? It's a simple technique.....not some magical mystical voodoo.

    Don't miss out on one of the most practical .22 cal semiauto pistol ever produced.
  3. TOOHSOTKIL

    TOOHSOTKIL New Member

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    +1 on the above post. One of the biggest problems is doing exactly what the manual says, many try to cheat or read more into it than is needed or not.
    The other is once done, many wait until it is so dirty it won`t shoot or guilt takes over........then months later without reading the manual; it is tried again with frustration.......then reading more into the directions than is needed........under stress. I know, I have been there.

    It really is a very simple design and it has stood the test of time. Almost like pulling the trigger pack from a MI Garand/M14.

    Sometimes simple seems hard
  4. pawn

    pawn Active Member

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    It isn't hard once you've done it a few times but there is a learning curve and folks have varying levels of mechanical inclination... For some, video instruction provides the simple clarity even the best written directions cannot.
  5. greener

    greener New Member

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    The first time I field stripped a Ruger, I had visions of a box of Ruger parts looking for a gunsmith and the language was so bad the dog left the room.:D I did 3 more reps actually following the manual and it wasn't so bad. Then I found this link, which much more clearly explains the process http://www.guntalk-online.com/fsprocedures.htm

    I've never let perceived concerns over difficulty of field stripping influence my firearms purchases. I figure that they were meant to be field stripped and the manufacturers wouldn't make that process totally impossible.

    My 22A is the simplest to field strip and it is an excellent shooting pistol. Now that I've delved the mysteries of the Ruger, I'd rate it second. My P22 is relatively easy but I end up having to delve through my parts box for the plastic guide or improvise. The one I like least is the Buck Mark. Not hard, but having to find an allen wrench and having keep track of washers and screws puts it down on my list of ease.
  6. PPK 32

    PPK 32 Active Member

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    I know I am gonna catch hell, but to be honest I still have not got the hang of field stripping my Ruger. Thanks to Pawn for the video, as it took a lot of the mystery out of what I actually did right one night--made the mistake of taking it apart, no instructions, nothing. Lots of swearing!! I can rebuild carbs, engines, printing presses etc. I consider myself to be mechanically able to field strip a gun. The 22A was a challenge at first but its not bad once ya get the hang of the plastic tab assy. Now, I just laugh at my inability to get the final lockup to work, I know its me, but can't seem to get the trick. I now own three of them I just picked up my MK III last night, great guns, but a trip to field strip!!
  7. greener

    greener New Member

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    Couple of tips:
    If the barrel/receiver is tight, use the bolt stop pin as a guide to align the holes by putting in in from the top and tapping on the appropriate end of the barrel receiver until the pin goes all the way through. That aligns the bolt stop pin holes and makes putting the mainspring assembly in easier.

    After you have the bolt in, pull and hold the trigger back to uncock the hammer (MKIII's insert mag then pull). Use something to push the hammer fully forward (MKIII remove mag). Hold the pistol so the muzzle is point down at about 30° below horizontal and insert the bolt stop pin and begin closing the mainspring. Just before the mainspring is fully closed (1/2" out) tilt the muzzle up and close the mainspring. You should have a little springiness in the mainspring. If you have none, open it, and repeat this part.

    The tricky part is the hammer strut. If you hold the muzzle horizontal, or higher, it will make a dive for the cross pin in the back of the grip frame. Tilting the muzzle up causes the hammer strut to fall into its groove in the mainspring assembly. This is much better explained in the guntalk-online link I gave.

    Just takes a bit of practice.

    The 22A is a piece of cake, except when you neglect to cover the slide and the recoil spring and rod launch themselves into a 3-wall bankshot and bury themselves under the workbench and reappear in 9 months. :D
  8. PPK 32

    PPK 32 Active Member

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    Thanks I will give this a run!!! My problem is in the final lockup. Hammer falls too far forward and the strut does not fall in the groove causing the bolt to lock or I have not gotten the hammer to fall forward enough to lock it up. I can't seem to get a happy medium, it either one or the other. The MK I cracks me up, as soon as I pull the trigger, and the lock up drops right in I can count on the bolt being locked. When I am able to drop the hammer, raise the muzzle and have the lockup assy hang out about a quarter of an inch and need to be pushed in for final, I am good.
  9. winshooter

    winshooter New Member

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    I had a hard time also until I found this procedure. I can't remember where I found it but it's probably a compilation of everything others have mentioned in this thread. Here it is:

    Mike
  10. johnlives4christ

    johnlives4christ Former Guest

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    i have owned... and after trading away and trying to "re-own" a ruger 22/45 which is pretty much the same thing as the mark II and i personally think the ruger mark II and 22/45's are some darn great shooting guns. i did have a hard time reassembling the pistol the very first time because the instructions weren't like.... DUH to me but after i did it once i didnt have any other problems. i personally shot over 3000 rounds through the one i had before i traded it to my buddy... and if i get it back i'll shoot just as many more probably the first season. i used to pack it every time i went out and could hit with ease a coke can at 25 paces. it rarely ever malfunctioned as well... even with cheap ammo

    ~john
  11. Teejay9

    Teejay9 New Member

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    When I first got my MK 1, I stripped it without knowing a thing about it. It took a few trials, but got it back together. I was horrified at the thought of having to take it to my gun shop and humbly asking them to put back together for me. The next time wasn't any easier, but I did it. Now, I have a MK III target model. When I saw that you needed a rubber mallet I said, "screw it!" and just cleaned the barrel and action without taking it apart. I really doesn't have to be totally stripped to be cleaned unless something broke or you dropped it in water or mud. Just keep it oiled and the obvious parts you can get to clean, and you shouldn't be in trouble. TJ
  12. Waldo Pepper

    Waldo Pepper New Member

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    Well I have a MK I, II, III, all Standard models and Mk III 22/45 and they can be confusing to take apart and reassemble as they are all some what different. But I have had the Mk I for about 55 years and needless to say can do it in my sleep and it is still tight and needs a whack to come apart.

    The 22/45 is the plinker however and the others are now safe queens. However if going in the woods I would take the MkIII 6" Standard or my S&W M-48 (WMR) or if still more omph my S&W 360Sc 12.5 oz 357 magnum.
  13. Big ugly

    Big ugly New Member

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    Hell my father goes squirrell hunting with his MrkIII and he bitches about it everytime he cleans his, Its been goin on for I know 15 years. I laugh every time we go huntin' and he pulls that damn thing out. But they shoot so good its hard not to buy one when you get a good deal.
  14. rjgnwdc

    rjgnwdc New Member

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    Thats the one I discovered the last time I cleaned it. the first 2 times that was the only problem I had everything else is in the instructions but the line up was my biggest problem infact it was my only problem I struggled with that the first itme I cleaned it for 3hrs no S@#t I just could not get it to line up but with the tip of going from the top just to get the line-up made all the difference in the world now I don't dread the reassembly :D
  15. Waldo Pepper

    Waldo Pepper New Member

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    I have done that trick through the top routine for so many years for lining up as to not even think about it. The Mk I just needs a light tap to break apart, the Mk II is a real PIA and can take ten minutes or more to get the receiver & lower assembly lined up with my rubber mallet because it is so tight, the Mk III is not as bad but still requires multi taps, while the Mk III 22/45 is almost as easy as the Mk I for some reason. So needless to say the 22/45 is the main shooter.
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