40 s&w reloads

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by mitchell38, May 21, 2012.

  1. mitchell38

    mitchell38 Former Guest

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    Being new to reloading,the first thing I bought was the Modern Reloading Manual,Second Edition by Lee.The first thing I plan to reload is 40 S&W for my S&W Sigma.On the load data page for that round is the disclaimer "Do not use reloads in Glock or similar guns with chambers that do not fully support the cartridge due to the intrusion of the feed ramp." I know I don't have a Glock,but the Sigma is similar.Not sure what "similar" means.First time post to the forum,thanks in advance for your help.
  2. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    easiest way would be to pop a round down the spout and take a good hard look to see if its all supported , if so ok if not the proceed with caution , any more that 2.8 mm of the case ( sorry glock figures ) is excessive exposure

    but been working with some glockies here with some loads but they are all 9mm IPSC folks were getting 1000fps no worries
  3. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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  4. Gahunter12

    Gahunter12 Member

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    I have a friend that shoots reloads out of his Sigma. Many guys also load for Glocks. Every guy I shoot IDPA with also reloads for Glocks. Are you looking for full power loads, or plinking target loads? If you are loading light target loads, you should be good to go. Just remember to work up. Also keep a look out for range brass with "The Glock Bulge". Most of the newer Glocks are better supported. The Gen1 & 2 Glocks were not supported as well. The .40s&w is a high pressure round. Take your time and keep a eye on your powder charge for double charges. Using slower powders that feel up more of the case will aid in preventing a double charge. I started out loading .40s&w with W231 which is a great powder. It's not as slow as some powders used in .40, but a double charge will fill a case to or near the rim. W231 also meters well in most powder measures.
    Last edited: May 21, 2012
  5. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

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    The .40 S&W typically has breech pressures in the lower 30,000 psi range, which is about 50% to 80% more than most .45 ACP cartridges. In reloading the .40 S&W (and the same relative pressure 9x19mm) it is very important that the reloading manual recipe be closely followed for actual bullet brand and weight, and bullet seating depth {usually shown as over all cartridge length, with a given bullet}.

    Also it is very important that the bullet be securely held by the cartridge case {and not move deeper under 50 lbs. of force for the .40, and 35 lbs. for the 9x19"}. Otherwise, there is a risk of the bullet being jammed significantly deeper into the case on the slide's loading stroke. When such happens, pressures skyrocket, often with damaging results.

    The the article in the following link is the best I have seen in explaining why it is not wise to reload brass that has been repeatedly fired in a Glock chamber. As you will see, it is NOT a matter of case support with normal pressure loads. It is a matter that the Glock chamber is designed loose, for maximum functional reliability, and stretches brass more than is desirable for repeated reloading. Pay close attention to the last two photos.
    http://www.christiangunowner.com/glockreviews.html
  6. 312shooter

    312shooter Active Member

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    The above posts all provide great reference to loading 40 s&w. As you probably noticed the amount of info and cautions when reloading the cartridge are plentiful. This is not the ideal learning caliber for reloading, as there is little room for error loading .40. If its possible get together with an experience reloader and learn before you begin cranking these out I certainly would, better yet is there any other cals on your list you want to load for?
    Last edited: May 23, 2012
  7. dbach

    dbach Member

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    I reload for my Glock 23 (.40). I have reloaded many casings many times over. I follow safe loading practice and have never had a problem.

    Remove and Glock bulge. I use the Redding G-RX Base Sizing Die for this task. I did try the LEE but I did not get comparable results.
    I use plated or jacketed bullets only, no lead.
    I use mid range loads.
    Reloading the .40 is no more difficult than any other round just approach it with common sense.


    Don't let all the internet "Hype" fool you. Most of it comes from folks that have never actually reloaded or used reloaded .40's.
  8. zachp

    zachp New Member

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    The first pistol rounds that i loaded were for my XD 40. I have ran about 100 through my gun and no problems "yet" (knock on wood).
  9. PanhandlePop

    PanhandlePop Member

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    Lawyers at work.... I shoot nothing but reloads out of my Glock 23 (gen 3) and I am one of many, many who do. The older generation Glocks have somewhat less chamber support. I don't know about your Sigma, but if it was mine I would shoot reloads out of it. I would use a medium burn rate powder (e.g., WSF), visual every powder dump, begin with start loads and don't get too much above medium charges, and use jacketed or plated bullets. As always the decision is yours, but if you are hesitant, don't.
  10. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

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    Chamber support does not normally become a factor in semi-auto pistol cartridges that are not loaded to beyond their design pressure. The cartridge case is designed to contain normal max pressure in an unsupported chamber.

    Cartridge case brass "work hardens" with each re-sizing, making it stronger but more brittle and likely to crack, rather than stretch when fired . Chambers like those in factory Glock barrels excessively stretch brass as compared to many other chamber designs that meet SAAMI/CIP requirements.

    Many persons "get away" with reloading brass that has been many times fired in a Glock chamber. Many persons repeatedly jump off of high places with only one parachute. Neither practice is to be recommended, by those familiar with the risks of doing so.
  11. dbach

    dbach Member

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  12. 312shooter

    312shooter Active Member

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    Good little read but the story is either purposely biased or the author does not understand CERTAIN glock barrels are unsupported such as the gen1 g22. Also he mentioned picking up brass from the range fired from multiple chambers which is a no no unless you plan on assuming some were fired from unsupported chambers and must first be ran through the buldge buster. The real problem with loading for any .40 s&w is using range pickup brass. If you buy new brass and your gun is a normally supported chamber your good to go.
  13. Sherrer1*

    Sherrer1* New Member

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    IM a new member and an avid shooter but a novice leloader. I will shortly begin to reload for my gen 3 glock model 23 40 s&w. I hear alot of talk about chamber support and glock bulge. what do those terms actually mean?
  14. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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    See post #3 for photos.

    BTW, Welcome.
  15. Gahunter12

    Gahunter12 Member

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  16. noylj

    noylj New Member

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    http://www.google.com/url?source=img...JMdBrB-KO2UVeA

    >Supported on the left, un-supported on the right.

    I would call it "partially supported" on the left, and "VERY un-supported" on the right.

    To me, the .40 S&W is not a well designed cartridge and the original guns were built for police "one time only" use.
    The .40 is as easy to load as any other straight-wall cartridge, but it is even more sensitive to bullet set-back or a slightly too heavy charge weight than the 9x19. This leads to LOTS of .40S&W KaBooms.
    Then, you have action pistol "gamers" who load it with bullets over 180gn in weight (I remember a couple of reloading manuals from 10 years ago expressly warning to NEVER load a bullet over 180gn in the .40 S&W) with powders at the extreme end of fast burning. Thus, a lot of gamers are shooting a very sensitive and temperamental round well outside of recommended loads.
    If you stay at 145-180gn bullets and AA5 or slower powders, you can have a lot of fun with the .40.
    For myself, I have a simple rule--IF I can visually SEE any bulge, then that case has been permanently ruined and I crush it. If I can't visibly see the bulge, I run it through my bulge buster. I also DON'T load near max loads and DON'T shoot bullets heavier then 175gn.
  17. 312shooter

    312shooter Active Member

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    Noylj,

    Agreed and well put, some choose to disregaurd the special cautions required for this cartrige and treat it as a more insensitive, lower pressure round. The .40 is reloadable but with the characteristics that you outlined is precisely why It shouldnt be a reloaders first.
  18. dbach

    dbach Member

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    I have never seen a case bulged like this: http://s1060.photobucket.com/albums/...t=7742119C.jpg

    Obviously it exists, it must be from a very old glock? Is it a photo of one of your casings or did you find it on the web somewhere? With all respect and no offense intended the photo looks photoshopped. Just curious.

    What I do see is a slight bulge just above the base of the spent brass and it bulges all the way around. Nothing as pronounced as the brass in the photo. My Glock 23 (.40 S&W) is about 12 years old and the brass does bulge. I carefully inspect my spent brass and reload it as I would any other. I do use mid range loads.

    The redding die removes the bulge .... no problem.

    Berrys 180 gr plated FN
    Hodgdon Universal @ 5 grains
    OAL of 1.25"

    I bought a new Lone Wolf barrel with conventional rifling and soon will be shooting cast bullets (boolits).

    See: http://www.gundigest.com/reloading-handloading-articles-advice/shooting_fixglockbulge

    Here is an example of what I see (note: this photo was copied off the web, it is not a piece of my bulged brass, it does represent what I see in my casings prior to bulge removal).

    Attached Files:

  19. Hammerslagger

    Hammerslagger New Member

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    Post #15 first link (Glock Bulge). Link copied below (but may not work).

    http://s1060.photobucket.com/albums/t457/gahunter12/Snapbucket/?action=view&current=7742119C.jpg

    This case came very close to blowing out!!! Had it done so, there would likely have been significant damage to any polymer frame pistol. Had it done so in a 1911 type pistol, the shooter would likely be bleeding from the face as a result of hot gases and brass being directed into his/her face. {Have personally seen 3 instances of such in the last 5 years.}

    What you see in subject photo is likely caused by a gross over pressure condition. Possible causes include wrong load or the bullet being seated too deep in the case at the time of firing. If a gross over-pressure condition did not cause this then the cartridge case was either defective in manufacture, or had been reloaded an excessive number of times.
  20. Gahunter12

    Gahunter12 Member

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    That's a pic from a Gen2 Glock. This pic was copied from a fourm. The guy had a handful bulge like that. I don't load to max since all my loads are for IDPA min power factor. The bulge that you show in your pics, which are more common in the newer Glocks, and other 40s&w pistols today. My XD's, and XDm's all bulge the cases like that from time to time. I notice it more in my Self Defense ammo when I shoot up the older ones for fresh ammo. I am able to remove the bulge with my Dillon dies, and have never had issue.
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