45acp auto-revolver crimping queery

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by dartswinger, Feb 17, 2010.

  1. dartswinger

    dartswinger Member

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    I have two guns I reload 45acp for, a 1911A1 and a Colt 1917 rev. If I crimp these loads, sometimes (not often) they will not fire in the auto, it seems they go too far into chamber and firing pin indent is very light (uncrimped loads function flawlessly). If I don't crimp and shoot in revolver sometimes a bullet or two will slide foreward protruding from cylinder locking up action. Is there a way to deal with this other than loading 2 seperately marked boxes of ammo, one crimped for rev. and one no-crimp for auto? I've read thru some postings and see mention of roll and taper crimp with diff. dies. My seater die is marked Pacific 3 45acp, purchased used with no papers so I really don't know what kind'a crimp it has. I load 4.7 Bullseye behind 225gr. lead.
  2. perry

    perry New Member

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    Load two seperate boxes. For me the ACP works best with just a slight or mild tapered crimp and the revolver will work best with a roll crimp. Not too tight. Depends on the powder and charge. Without a crimp the bullets in the revolver can also be pushed back into the case thus creating higher pressures.
  3. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

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    Your .45ACP dies are made to apply a taper crimp (as are all autoloader cartridge seater/crimp dies). BUT...if you set the die too deep, some brands of dies will make somewhat of a roll crimp on the case mouth. This is probably what you've got happening with your Pacific dies.

    Yes, bullet creep can be a problem in a revolver. I wouldn't think it would be a problem with that load since it is on the mild side.

    What size are the bullets you're using? .452" Might want to try some that are sized to .453" to see if the extra diameter will give a better neck tension. (Be careful of pressures though...back off to minimum and work up again).
    My Taurus 1911 is more accurate with .453s than .452s, my Springfield 1911 isn't fussy so I've been using .453s in both guns just so I don't wind up in the same boat as you are (needing two separate ammo stocks for the same caliber).

    I'm wondering how a Lee Factory Crimp Die would work out for ya? I haven't used one yet but a lot of guys are raving about them.
  4. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Get you some .45 auto rim brass and just load separately. Crimp the hell outta the Auto rim stuff for the revolver and lightly taper the ACP rounds for the 1911. Problem solved...:)
  5. dartswinger

    dartswinger Member

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    Quick extra thought here, virtually all my cases are US mil. dated fm mid '50s thru early 70s. When it comes to bullet seating some require noticable oomph to seat the bullet whereas in some cases the bullet practically falls in with no effort, those would obviously be the ones with bullet movement, no? I must admit my cases are rather mixed, some having been loaded only a couple times, others maybe 5 or 6 times. Is this a sign of wearing out, getting thin or some other ill effect. I do inspect prior to loading and cull out anything showing cracks or splits.
  6. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    I have about 800 or so cases, mostly range pick ups over the years, mixed mil spec and commercial, some loaded in excess of 50 times by now im sure. I aint seen no signs of wear except the headstamp getting a little illegible. They still load and shoot just fine. Are you going hot on your load data???
  7. neilin

    neilin New Member

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    I use a separate taper crimp die for the .45 acp.
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