9mm crimp question

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by smlranger, Jan 17, 2012.

  1. smlranger

    smlranger New Member

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    Got a new Kimber 1911 in 9mm and it seems to be a bit more sensitive to case diameter than my other two 9mm pistols that cycle and shoot my reloads just fine. I've had a couple of rounds tend to stick in the chamber, even though they all pass my Dillion case guage test.

    I read on another forum that using the Lee factory crimp die may be a solution. Educate me about the Lee die vs the Dillon crimp die I am now using for my 9mm.
  2. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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    The Lee Factory Crimp die has a Carbide sizing ring at it's base. It is the only tapper crimp die with this post sizing ring. It is designed to iron out any imperfections in a loaded round and bring it back to factory specs. Of course it also applies a tapper crimp.

    What do you mean "stick in the chamber"? Fired rounds, hand cycling rounds??

    What does your tapper crimp measure on your loaded ammo?

    Did you follow Kimber's break in procedure and fire at least 500 rounds of factory FMJ ammo through it? If so how did they run?

    What bullet, powder, charge are you using?
  3. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    'Sticking' in the chamber is usually a result of the bullet being seated slightly too far out and getting wedged into the throat when the round chambers.
  4. The Duke

    The Duke New Member

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    Watch the nickle plated brass...It tends to become brittle and doesnt resize after a couple reloadings...I trash mine after 2nd firing.....If your shooting jacketed or plated bullets, they may even drop right down on top the powder...:eek:

    You are using a taper crimp, I suppose???...Even with lead bullets, taper crimp only...Its a headspace thang, ya know...;)..Make sure you getting enough taper or not having too much..Resize a case, measure with calipers at the mouth, load it up with powder and boolit, run thru your crimp/seating die and measure at the mouth again...I dont know what the within tolerance values are for 9mm, but someone else should have that info...

    Check the overall length and make sure the bullet isnt seated too far out of the case and the boolit is sticking in the rifling......Not likely, but Ive managed to do it before...;).. With lead, make sure none of the bearing surface is sticking out of the case at the ojive....this could cause the chambering to headspace on this part...Just something you can try...
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2012
  5. 312shooter

    312shooter Active Member

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    I'm not one to talk up lee products, but the factory crimp dies produce excellent results. All of my die sets include a seperate LFCD. I have yet to have a malfuntion in any of the firearms I load for, in particular a Springfield 1911 TRP Operator which can be just as finicky as your Kimber. For 12-15 dollars you cannot go wrong.
  6. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Better not let LD read that 312.. He'll disown you. :D
  7. smlranger

    smlranger New Member

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    As always, thanks guys for the learned advice. I went back to the range today and ran 100 factory rounds followed by some of my reloads (20) with no issues. My 9mm loads have worked flawlessly in both my Ruger SR9c and my Colt Commander 9mm. Guess the Kimber just needs a little more break in time.

    At about $15, I think I will get one of the Lee dies. Can't hurt to have another tool in the box, right ;).

    Attached Files:

  8. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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    Nice! Like the grips!

    Now duplicate the factory rounds, bullet/OAL with your handloads and run them through the Kimber. Should be all you need to break it in.
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2012
  9. The Duke

    The Duke New Member

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    Kimbers are tight...Took about 200 rounds of .45ACP through my CustomII before it became flawless...Get'er broke in and youll love it.
  10. CampingJosh

    CampingJosh Well-Known Member

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    LD has said that he's a fan of the Factory Crimp Die (at least for rifles). He just wishes that they were made of a different steel.

    I like the FCD, too, but I have no complaints as it is.
  11. dbach

    dbach Member

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    I tried a Lee Factory Crimp die to remove Glock Bulge. The results were a bit less than satisfactory. Then I tried the Redding sizing die G-RX Base Sizing Die Kit. The Redding has outperformed the Lee Die 10 to 1.
  12. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

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    The Lee Factory Crimp die/Bulge Buster is too tight for me. Damn near broke my bench trying to push 10MM and 40 S&W through it, even with lube. The GRX is a perfect fit, slide right through.
  13. 312shooter

    312shooter Active Member

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    I had the same problem, then I did something really off the wall and pushed a 40 casing through with a .223 casing and presto! It makes all the difference to use the correct pusher. After about 10 casings the 223 collapsed in on itself, more or less swaged itself into the perfect diameter to allow the 40 case to wobble into center as it is forced upward. Now I push 500 cases through without a tired shoulder, and in my tool box lies a 223 case that looks as if it was crushed with a vice , but it works.
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
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