Accuracy Tricks

Discussion in 'Centerfire Pistols & Revolvers' started by TranterUK, Jun 6, 2008.

  1. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    Do members have any tricks to improve the accuracy of a particular gun?

    As an example, I was shown how to 'pinch in' or 'close up' the forward part of the frame on a Browning HP, so as to reduce the clearance between it and the slide. :)

    There must be others, though one should always take care not to mess with pressure bearing or trigger related parts, and check the weapons reliability afterwards. Most mods should only be done by a qualified gunsmith. But members may have ideas we can take to them.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 6, 2008
  2. Well, the first thing I do, Tranter, is buy a Mauser instead of a smellie . . . :D;) (Sorry, just couldn't resist.) ;)

    Seriously, one thing I always look at is having the rifle re-crowned by a competent gunsmith, especially if it is a military weapon. In my experience, this relatively small step often improves accuracy considerably. Military weapons--and sometimes civilian rifles--often take quite a beating around the end of the bore. Re-crowning usually corrects this problem quite effectively.

  3. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    Got to be honest here, for all that I have said, and believe about the smellie, I shoot a Mauser. :eek:

    Yes its true. A WW2 vintage German issue K98, re barrelled by the Israelis to 7.62 x 51. And you know what, it shoots really well. :)
  4. Nice rifle, Tranter. All of my '98s are still chambered for the 7.92 x 57 (8mm Mauser) German military round. I've heard that there were some out there re-barreled to the .308 cartridge by various governments. Didn't they do that with some of the SMLEs as well?
  5. Prior to this Pistol, I always scrub the doo-doo out of the bore and chamber with a good copper solvent and then clean up the inside of the stock. It's amazing how many firearms have reduced accuracy due to either barrel fowling or uneven stock pressure.
  6. A few drops of white lithium grease inside certain parts of the trigger group/firing mech, depending on the weapon, is as good temporarily as a polish job/trigger job.
  7. Dakota Red 1

    Dakota Red 1 New Member

    Nov 26, 2007
    I'd shim out the play between the upper/lower recievers on ARs. Don't know if it helps but it made me feel better. Now the unauthorized trigger jobs on Uncle Sam's weapons...those definately helped.;) (Current service members: Don't try this at home kids or somebody is liable to break a foot off in your a$$.)

    As to my poor little accuracy challenged Mini-14, I clamped this heaping, honking big rail system on the barrell and it helped bring my wandering zero closer to home.
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2008
  8. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    I have never seen a SMLE in any other than .303. I have seen LE No4s converted into 7.62 x 51 / .308.

    For the record, when the Israelis changed the caliber they stamped a big '7.62' on the underside of the stock by the butt plate. Clearly to make them easy to spot when browsing old Mausers in a Gun Shop!

    Interestingly I have a modern repro LE No.5 Carbine pattern rifle in 7.62 x 39 Russian made by Australian Arms. I like it because it's a little like Coopers Scout Rifle principle. Light, shoulders well, not too long, takes mags, (10 rd but can handle 30s though I don't see the point in a B/A). I have it scoped x3. A nice shooter for a Carbine, but disappointing at long range. :)

    Oh and Dakota, I have used some pretty wonky ARs/ M16s with play between top and bottom halves. You can buy a thing called an accuracy wedge that sits in the lower and sort of does what it says. In the field I have glued small thin, flat bits of rubber to each side of the lower frame just forward of the slope over the selector.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 7, 2008
  9. Dakota Red 1

    Dakota Red 1 New Member

    Nov 26, 2007

    I've this thingy in the image of a No.1. Ishapore arsenal, made in the 60s and chambered in 7.62 Nato. Does that count?
  10. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    Interesting. Though I have not seen any, not in my book.

    India and the region are known for making copies of various firearms. Apparently to order, and often out of recycled railway tracks! To be honest I know very little of that area or their products. I would also think twice before using one.
  11. My favorite "unauthorized trigger job" I've seen on M16/M4's is guys who squirt a polishing compound into the trigger mech, basically fill up the lower reciever below the hammer, then dry fire a few dozen times until the surfaces are smooth, then blast out the compound with a pressure solvent tank or can of engine cleaner. It slicks up the trigger real good....if you get carried away you will slick it up too good too....but it would be hard to prove since there's no sign of disassembly beyond the 10-level. Add some white lithium and you've got a very smooth trigger on all three pulls. (Alot of people are suprised to find out the M16 has 3 different trigger pulls that rotate as you fire....side effect of having a 3 shot burst mech.)

    Tightening those loose upper recievers....I've seen some different materials and ideas for that but as best as I could tell, over 10 years firing that weapon, tightening the upper/lower gap doesn't improve accuracy a noticable amount. A spec M16 is a 3-MOA rifle anyway. Despite what lots of people believe....3-MOA is plenty good enough out to 1/4 mile.

    Tightening the upper/lower has one real advantage in my opinion....that is making a smaller gap for dust/sand to fall into the bolt carrier. But where I've worked, if we wanted a more accurate M16 for whatever reason, (punching the X out of SR-1's at 100m+?) we either had it rebuilt or bought custom parts depending.

    We are looking right now at converting some M16/M4's from gas to piston operation. The idea is to see if this increases reliability after heavy use (less fouling) and decreases wear on bolts/bolt carriers (less friction from carbon and less over heating from the gas blasts). I'm very interested to find out how this effects accuracy has been mentioned that the rod will be a mass moving over the barrel during cycle of function.

    Okay....enough on M16. Gonna go shoot up some .45:D:D
  12. Dakota Red 1

    Dakota Red 1 New Member

    Nov 26, 2007
    Yes and Pakistan and a few other stans. And rail can be very good steel and about right for the job, if rolled from Bessemer processed steel.

    These are arsenal rifles made with tooling from, and techniques taught in, the days of the raj...modern steel to handle the increased pressures. Anyhoo, Wiki covers them in an article. section 9.1

    Mine is the 2a1, sight goes to 800m. Bolt goes in and out smoother than a greased...whatever. But no, no hot loads or heavy bullets and we are getting along fine. Interesting subject.
  13. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

    Dec 20, 2003
    Hesperia, CA
    Since this is a Pistol and Revolver section of the forum my tip is for 1911's.

    The Dwyer Group Gripper (sold by Brownells as a Wilson product) can drastically improve the guns accuracy. It is a special recoil spring guide and special link. The guide has an embeded spring that acts on a notch in the special link to push the barrel up and into the the top of the groves in the top of the slide. It pushes so that the slide always returns from recoil to exactly the same spot. Adding a fitted bushing to the slide and the Group Gripper gave me a documented 30% increase in accuracy. That's better than any other modifcaiton I did to my Colt 1911. I also used the same trick on a cheapy Rock Island 1911 with excellent accuracy results. The mod is cheap and drop-in except the slide bushing is best if fitted to the slide and barrel which can be done by hand or by a competent gunsmith. This mod avoids having to do all the slide squeezing and frame rail hammering that is suppose to increase accuracy for most 1911's. gripper&s=

  14. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    Here's one for handguns that worked really well for me.

    Finger grove grips. The best I found were the wrap around type, front and sides in one. I think Hogue was the best. I always threw away the back strap bit that you got with pachmayers. It stops the hand sliding into place when you take the grip.

    Finger grooves are ugly and spoil the line of the gun to my eye, but they always led to a better grip, control and better groups. Hard to argue with that. :)
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