Any members do Parkerizing?

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by H-D, May 7, 2012.

  1. H-D

    H-D Active Member

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    I have been thinking about trying to Parkerize a pistol, has anyone here done it?
  2. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    i do a fair bit , what do you wish to know ??
  3. H-D

    H-D Active Member

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    Well I have seen other forums where people do their own , what chemicals do you use ? Do you buy the manganese phosphate or the zinc ? Do you use stainless tanks or ceramic ? What are the chances I will ruin my pistol ? I have an extra slide and some magazines I will try first can I reuse the solution ?
  4. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    I use phosphoric acid and zinc mainly , i can tint and colour the park a few ways

    i can match the GI green with a 2% copper SULFIDE ultra fine grind addition

    i can black park with varying amounts of maganese oxide

    i have used the same batch over 3 days til on the third some parts where looking not well coated and it was all of a sudden , i triple checked the parts in the previous batch and they where all good , the ability to transfer was gone , new batch for just a few peices but thats how it is

    i use Nylon tubs , actually the nylon acid drum cut in half with ice cream sticks glued in place for parts to sit on , and slight touch moves them along so you dont get a stripe effect..

    your high tolerence areas coat with engineers or jewers otr other high heat tolerant wax

    meaning cover the slide parts

    make sure the part is not touching anything else

    make sure they sit so no bubbles can form and stay

    some folks wire parts , i use green leather thonging

    barrels make sure they dont need smooth areas like for bushings etc

    i doubt you'd ruin anything , but be happy with the job ? its not that hard to dissolve the zinc back off if your patient and thorough even if you do goof , i've not had a goof in a few years , it happens , you remove it all or in part and go from there ..

    its not rocket science but does need simple thoughts as per YOUR GUN
    wax what you dont want covered , dont what you do ..

    park it all and enjoy its a great finish and holds oil well and thats it secret , the micro crystaline deposit you put on your metal holds oil excellently ..

    prep is everything though , just like bluing , if your prep is bad , it'll show though i will say parking is way more forgiving than bluing , it'll cover small finger marks ..

    i'll post you some links
    Last edited: May 7, 2012
  5. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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  6. H-D

    H-D Active Member

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    thanks Jack!
  7. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    get some steel that matches yours in grade ( 1080 4140 etc) finish the metal as you would and sample a few mixes ( small ones ) then go with the formula /time per part , you prefer ..

    its smelly so do in a place thats ventilated

    enjoy and good luck
  8. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    and if you do so try a Cobalt oxide , gives the park a Blue tint 1 gram per 10 of zinc no more it'll spoil the reaction
  9. ka64

    ka64 Active Member

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  10. H-D

    H-D Active Member

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  11. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    HD, If you F' it up too bad just semd it to me and ill blast it and CeraKote it. ;)
  12. H-D

    H-D Active Member

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    Yeah I would rather have it Cerakoted anyway!
  13. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    I did Hoggers springer over last weekend. Turned out flippin sweet.
  14. H-D

    H-D Active Member

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    Got any pics?
  15. toppkatt

    toppkatt New Member

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    Jack can you expound a bit on this? I have a friend that wants to try and get that green GI color on a 03 Springfield. When do you add the copper sulfide, do you make it a solution first and add or just dissolve the powder? Timing?

    Thanks
  16. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    ok dissolve the sulfide powder in the acid

    then the zinc and proceed as normal , rule of thumb , dissolve sulfides before zinc , oxides after zinc never use oxides and sulfides , the park will be bad and lift ..

    do a test on any non standard mixes , get a block of the same grade steel temper it and park it to see how long you want to leave it to get the colour you want

    you can remove the finish on the block and redo as many times as you want , but you cannot guess the finished colour while its in the tank ,

    its gotta be dried and oiled to see final colour and once oiled it cant be returned to the tank unless re cleaned

    its a pain but you can do 6-8 tests in a morning easy

    start about 8 minutes and go up from there ( do 2-3 minute tests starting at 8 then 11 then 14 etc )

    make wooden plugs for muzzle and chamber , hammer in so it seals and drill and hammer a nail or screw into the plug and hang by the nail or screw in the tank ... that way you get no marks from where its rested

    dont ground the object thats being parked , make sure its isolated

    good luck !!
    Last edited: May 10, 2012
  17. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    Oh and clean your tank out real well after

    sulfides leave a greasy residue , you'll need a good degreaser to remove it all especially if you use a plastic tank ...
  18. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    this is from the Brownells tech series in 2004

    Attached Files:

  19. toppkatt

    toppkatt New Member

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    Thanks Jack.
    BTW I couldn't open the Brownell's PDF file, said yhere were errors in the file.:(
    Last edited: May 11, 2012
  20. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    Last edited: May 11, 2012
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