Anybody ever tighten a slide or peen rails?

Discussion in 'The 1911 Forum' started by polishshooter, Aug 18, 2006.

  1. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    I've done just about EVERYTHING else building one, but mine is pretty tired after all the rounds I've put through mine, and it was pretty LOOSE when I first put it together. But since it's "been ridden hard and put up wet" many times over....

    It's an Ithaca Military Slide, on an AMT Hardballer frame, and it rattles like a buckboard on the trail if you shake it.

    It never was a GREAT grouper, but I USED to get the groups I get now at 10 yds at 25....

    I think the best I could do to it that I 'haven't already done is tighten the slide to the frame, BUT...

    it seems a waste to buy the frame vise jig for $100, and a frame rail spacer/peening kit for like $150, plus all the other stuff I would need for final fitting, just to do it ONCE myself. But then, I LIKE to "do it myself" if I can, everything ELSE good or bad I've done to this one myself, and it's been a good gun to me over the past 20 years and 150000 rds.

    Is there any alternative, or failing that, how much does a "decent" 'smith iusually charge to do it right?
  2. Shooter45

    Shooter45 *Administrator* Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Mike, keep in mind that frame to slide fit only accounts for 2% improvement in accuracy.

    I'm in the process of moving and am without internet service until sometime next week. If you want, I'll walk you thru the process.
  3. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    Thanks Shooter.

    I still haven't decided on it yet...tomorrow is the Indy 1500 and I have $150 put back for "upgrades" to the old .45, I'm going to replace the hammer, sear, disconnector, hammer spring,and sear spring, and fit a new beavertail to it, first.

    If I have any $ left of the budget, I'm going to maybe replace the "group Gripper" and link, and get an oversized slide stop and fit it. And if I'm still in the game or have any cash left in the OTHER budgets :D I'm going to fit a new solid bushing....

    And probably before I tighten it, I would get a new barrel, but after that, I don't know what else I can do except tighten it....
  4. Shooter45

    Shooter45 *Administrator* Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Invest in a Kart Drop-in barrel. It will be the best $$ you spend. I should have internet service at home tonight.
  5. 358 winchester

    358 winchester *TFF Admin Staff*

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    That sounds like to much work :eek:
    just buy my S&W 945 from the custom shop and be done :D
    Ron
  6. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    Well, I probably won't be doing any tightening...this weekend I bought a new Ed Brown solid bushing, an Ed Brown Hardcore hammer, matching sear, disconnector, and some new springs, and I THOUGHT a new Ed Brown Beavertail, but after Larry figured my discount I was presently surprised, so I threw in a Wilson Group Gripper, after finding out he didn't have any gripper links left, I figured mine might be a little tired...


    Outside of the fact that the reason it was so CHEAP was he forgot to include the Beavertail(which ironically, was what I wanted to change MOST!:p ) the new group gripper tightened it up NICELY.

    The old Group Gripper link was pretty worn, you could see the hole was wallowing a little. So it was probably a blessing he forgot the beavertail on the counter, I probably wouldn't have bought the gripper.

    THe "Dwyer" Group Gripper (now they are "Wilson") I put in there shortly after I built it in '83, and I figure it has more than 100,000 rounds through it since, so it was due for a new link. I even used the same link on my Bar-Sto 6' if I remember right, so I could still benefit from the gripper.

    It is AMAZING. BEFORE it rattled like a 73 Scamp on a gravel road, the guy even said it had to have been among the LOOSEST ones he ever saw, now you can shake it to heck and it does't make much of a sound, only a little felt movement.

    Haven't had time to do anything but a 20 round function test since, but will try it and see if it groups better this weekend.


    BTW, while the Ed Brown hammer/sear/disc is not MEANT to be "drop in," like others, supposedly the primary angle is finsihed, but the secondary needs stoning, this Larry the 1911 guy told me when he builds a carry gun now, he just drops it in and has NEVER gotten less than a crisp 4 1/2# out of it, and he's right, my last was a hair under 4, and even replacing my cut mainspring with a stock one, this one breaks clean not much more than the old one.

    I have a little "hitch" on the takeup now though, I have to figure out, must be a burr somewhere...maybe the new sear spring rubbing on the side of the disconnector?


    And I LOVE the advice---"buy a new one!";)

    THAT was not an option, even if this one WASN'T a "Dun-er-myssef" "Polish Original" I've shot so MUCH and know it better than my Wife!:eek: :D
  7. stash247

    stash247 New Member

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    Polish, I have used and like the Dwyer 'group gripper', because it works!
    The real solution is to back off, and lock the gun up so tight it borders on alibi's, every match, but that is costly; if not done at home, and paying the tooling costs (300-500 dolllars), it's still a 350+ buck safari, results not guaranteed, which makes the shortstop, Dwyer, very attractive.
    Unless 'shooting for blood' is your target passion, it is a cost effective shortcut!
    Just my .02.
  8. LIKTOSHOOT

    LIKTOSHOOT Advanced Senior Member

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    In the words of a once infamous member here.....


    WHACK IT!




    LTS
  9. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    Yeah, I am amazed how much the gun tightedned up with the new gripper...the old one in it must have been as tired and worn as the rest of it...

    Anyway, at least I found out the maximum life expectency of a Dwyer Group Gripper! 20 years, 100,000 rds!:p
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