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AR-15 questions

5K views 50 replies 15 participants last post by  68c15 
#1 ·
So I have this wonderful new rifle. I think its got a front handguard called a "glacier" type. Its just plastic and it appears to be held on by a spring loaded ring that you pull back to get it to come off. Its got some wiggle in it but its not mounting anything so it doesn't really matter. Now when someone puts those long quad rail hand guards on it do you attach it a different way so you can mount optics and not have them lose zero every time you touch it?

 
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#3 ·
Those are standard hand guards. I've got the same on my Bushmaster M4 and another Carbine I just finished building. I wouldn't go with any other style personally. Yes, there will be a tad of movement with them.

If you want a rock-solid optic mount, I'm thinking you will need a flat top receiver and mount your optic base directly to it. The one thing you will need to live with is the fact that you will need to mount the base for the optic pretty far forward if you intend to also use a flip-up front and rear back up sight.

What I did with my latest AR was to use an M4 contour barrel with flip up sights, then I installed a very small light/red laser combo on the underside of the gas block. Point of impact is dead on at 100 yards with the laser, and a tad low at closer ranges. I use this setup for night shooting for coyotes who want to eat my Australian Sheppard here on the farm at night when she goes out to commune with nature. All I have to do is hold "minute-of-fur" and squeeze.
 
#4 ·
I use free-flat handguards on all the AR's that I build. They don't put any pressure on the rifle barrel at all, even if you decide to throw a bipod or other accessories on them. You can pick up a decent quality one for around $45-$50 on up depending on what sort of options you want like QD holes and such.
 
#6 ·
When the young crowd looks at my AR-1st question-why don't you have rails on it,dude?Because I don't need to hang 10lbs of garbage on it.I use a short rail piece bolted through 2 holes in lower handguard for my hand stop as I finally got the C Clamp method down after being constantly nagged by son.He was right the little !@#$%^,much faster and accurate to drive the barrel.
 
#7 ·
There is a two piece quad rail available to replace the original but you'll end up with the same looseness. To install a true free float handgaurd, you'll need a proprietary barrel nut and a few tools. An upper receiver vise block, barrel nut wrench, torque wrench, small drift punches and a hammer. You will most likely have to remove the front sight/gas block which will most likely be pinned on. Then remove the barrel nut and replace with the new one for your quad rail. If your new handgaurd is longer than the old one, you'll need a low profile gas block. Which means that you'll have to remove the gas tube from the old one. It's not really hard to do if you have a little mechanical knowledge.
 
#8 ·
There is a two piece quad rail available to replace the original but you'll end up with the same looseness.
Hey, Howlnmad!

I snag a two piece Midwest Industries mid-length railed handguard for my Armalite, and it locked up good and solid! I had the 2 piece plastic guards when I purchased it. Boy were they wobbly! Can't say it will happen every time, with every flavor of rifle manufacturer, but with the Midwest parts you'd think it was a free float.
 
#13 ·
Colt furn also have the aluminum heat shields. I learned the hard way, bought a LE6920 and the Colt furniture was swapped for cheap crap. I managed to work with the seller (*********, NIB LE6920) and ended up getting the original colt furniture a month later. He claimed it was his supplier when I called him out) Since I went Magpul, I now have cheap furniture, Colt furniture and Magpul. :) I count that as "Two seeds for more potential builds" LOL!
I am not meaning to be rude but..........

This answers his question how?
 
#11 ·
Colt furn also have the aluminum heat shields. I learned the hard way, bought a LE6920 and the Colt furniture was swapped for cheap crap. I managed to work with the seller (*********, NIB LE6920) and ended up getting the original colt furniture a month later. He claimed it was his supplier when I called him out) Since I went Magpul, I now have cheap furniture, Colt furniture and Magpul. :) I count that as "Two seeds for more potential builds" LOL!
 
#15 ·
GD-if I remember correctly,you had a .300 rifle,that was the problem.The cartridge was designed for a pistol or SBR-and the use of a suppressor to remove external threats to a fluid situation ie:sentry removal(how's that for beauracratic BS).Basically a 220-240gr bullet at 1000fps with 1"accuracy at 200yds MAX.I think if you build a pistol you will really enjoy it as long as you accept it for what it is.Reloading for it is a real joy and the bullet weights available go from 100-240grs.And if you don't like,simply switch out the barrel and go 5.56.I haven't found an inaccurate bullet weight yet,but I've only tried 5.....and cast bullets make it even cheaper to shoot.
 
#20 ·
I need to put a sling on this weapon. What do you guys recommend a single or double point sling? For a double I'd have to get something that will hook onto the front hand guard since there isn't a mount under the gas block.
 
#23 ·
I dis-agree on the 'quick detachable sling swivel' for the AR. Go with the solid sling swivel mount. The QD swivels have a habit of letting go on their own at the worst possible moment. I put a QD on my latest AR because of the non-G.I. gas block (and I wanted a 1 1/4" sling), and ended up modifying it to a non QD after it decided to detach on it's own 4 times.

Besides, what purpose does a QB sling swivel serve? I can un-do and remove my nylon Nam era slings from any of my 3 ARs just about as quick as a QD sling can be taken off.
 
#25 ·
I use mine for hunting so I use 2 point slings. Actually I make my own from paracord. I just made one for my 16" barreled 6.8 with a 13" freefloat tube. I put the studs on left side near front of tube and just ahead of the butt plate. This way the grip and mags don't dig into my back. A simple swipe using left hand across right shoulder and its in both hands and ready to take Bambi without changing my profile scaring the critter
 
#34 ·
I might put a light on my AR-15 eventually but I'm pretty set right now with a red dot and backup sights. Some of the weapons I see in the tactical videos must weigh 50 pounds and are just over the top.
 
#35 ·
I agree on the overkill but each build has it's own purpose and my purpose was just a plinker...after a Magpul furniture upgrade and a tactical light, I stopped. (The light for an occasional Coyote that visit the backyard ;) ) I should probably get a 2 point sling?
I did add one more upgrade..a "red" Odin mag release upgrade. :D I did that so that I can tell noobs how to drop the mag..."Push the Red Button" (everyone likes to push the red button!)
 
#36 ·
I've got one flat top with round handgaurds and a pic rail gas block. It's set up with a reflex sight and 45* back up sights. That's all I need. I don't see myself on some "spec op" infiltrating some enemy compound under darkness of the night.
My other two are an A1 with 20" barrel and an A2 with a 16" barrel. As you can see, I'm not much into the tacticool.
 
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