Automotive paint question...

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by glocknut, Aug 9, 2009.

  1. glocknut

    glocknut Active Member

    I just got back from getting a bit to eat and decided to stop and wash the car on the way back. I washed it with those self serve high pressure wands...not the automated one. I know the wands leave alot to be desired but it would not take off anything. This dumb aparment complex has automated lawn sprinklers that run on and off all night long and they keep everything wet...the cars and the parking lot as well. The ground will not perk? for squat so the vast majority of the water runs into the drains....

    But anyway these water droplet stains will not come off the paint. Its real bad on the hood and the front fenders. The entire car has at least a little staining but its real bad up front. I took a rag and some soap and scrubbed and scrubbed the hood but didn't get everything. Its still rougher than it should be and i can see the outline of the original stain.

    I think the origins of this are hard water being repeadedly sprayed on the car and the sun coming up and baking it dry daily.

    It TICKS ME OFF to say the least!!!!! And there is supposed to be a coating on there to keep stuff like this from staining the paint...

    I don't know what to do. I was thinking about that CLR stuff that removes hard water stains but i don't know if that will damage the paint or not. Maybe there is some kind of automotive store kind of stuff i can put on there to get this off? I might ought to go back to the dealership and see what they say.

    I'll try to remember to take a pic tomorrow....

    Suggestions anyone??

  2. Suicide*Ride

    Suicide*Ride New Member

    Apr 6, 2009
    Golden, Colorado
    Mike, I've heard CLR ain't what it's cracked up to be. As far as your paint, I would try some buffing compound but start with very fine grit & work your way up.

    The water spots are probably etched into the clearcoat so buffing might be the only way to remove them. I know Meguires makes all kinds of stuff for detailing paint so see if they make a water spot remover before trying any buffing compounds.

    There, I found it for you! ;)

    SR :)

  3. glocknut

    glocknut Active Member

    Wow.... thanks S.R. !!!!!!

  4. Suicide*Ride

    Suicide*Ride New Member

    Apr 6, 2009
    Golden, Colorado
    That's what friends are for! ;)

  5. The Rebel

    The Rebel New Member

    I checked the web link also for the Hard Water Spot Remover... I'll have to remember that ! Thanks ~~> :)
  6. Big ugly

    Big ugly New Member

    Feb 27, 2009
    Knoxville Tennessee
    Got to wall mart and get the white turtlewax compund. DO NOT GET THE RED.
    The red is a rubbing compound, The white is a cleaner, When you use the stuff though dont rub it in too hard or you will get light marks into the paint.

    Attached Files:

  7. SARG

    SARG Member

    Mar 25, 2007
    I would suggest a combo cleaner / wax before trying a buff compound.............. But if you do use the straight cleaner compound be damn sure you protect the clearcoat with wax or polymer after.
  8. GMFWoodchuck

    GMFWoodchuck New Member

    Oct 9, 2008
    Binghamton, NY
    In response to Suicide*Ride, I always like CLR as long as it was used properly. It's meant for rust and lime scale and other stuff as a result of hard water. I know that some of the people I know were attempting to use it on mold of which it wasn't designed for nor does it do anything to.

    I certainly would water it down before puting it on your car. Perhaps you would be better off trying a little white vinegar, it does the same thing from a chemical standpoint but would be less likely to harm your paint especially if that's watered down a bit as well.

    Unfortunately I think some of the others may be right in saying that to marks may be permanent. Hopefully a good wax will "hide" the spots.
  9. GMFWoodchuck

    GMFWoodchuck New Member

    Oct 9, 2008
    Binghamton, NY
    Also, one more thing. Stay up or get up earlier, don't matter which.When the sprinklers are on they usually can be aimed as most spray in one general direction. If it's the pop up things just grab a hold of the sprayer and turn it. Some are a little stiffer than others. But, hopefully being the right kind, you can get them away from your sidewalks and car.
  10. Freebore

    Freebore Member

    Apr 18, 2009
    Land of the Free
    Careful.......if your going to polish or buff any clearcoat finishes. Clearcoat is basically plastic (polymer) based and is easily damaged through improper polishing/buffing. My suggestion is to look for cleaner that is clearcoat safe, they do exist, NuFinish Scratch Doctor is one of them, it removes scratches, haze. and swirl marks, there are also others.

    What you have on your finish is silica buildup (from hard water) which is very difficult to remove once it has baked on, CLR (and other do remove it, but I'd be skeptical using it on clearcoat...maybe you would want to try a test area first, somewhere where it would not be noticeable if it damages the finish)
  11. Blackhawk Dave

    Blackhawk Dave Member

    Nov 20, 2008
    Denton, TX
    Go to the parts house and get the scratch and haze remover. It's a polymer that buffs on and repairs the clear coat. That's what's damaged, and this will fix it. Nu Finish makes a good one.
  12. glocknut

    glocknut Active Member

    I payed extra for some kind of coating that was SUPPOSED to protect the doggone paint...
    I think before i do anything i'm going to go to the dealership and jack them up about it...and see how they want to deal with it since there is an actual warranty steming from that coating alone. If they won't take action on it then i will start buying stuff suggested here.

    Another thing is that i can't get a buffer to work on the paint myself because my apartment is to far in from the parking lot to get an extension cord and the garage doesn't have a power outlet. It would not be practical to do it myself.


    Thanks for the replies everyone!!!!
  13. ponycar17

    ponycar17 Active Member

    Feb 17, 2005
    South Carolina
    I'd recommend Meguiars cleaner/wax, or even their 3 step system, but only using the cleaner and then moving to the Gold Class wax. It'll come out with the cleaner wax or their regular cleaner but with the regular cleaner you need to apply a wax right after application of the cleaner.

    Be aware too that those car wash brushes will put tiny scratches ALL OVER your car. On a black car, it'll look like straight brush strokes after a couple of uses with a dirty brush. That's almost impossible to remove.
  14. satellite66

    satellite66 New Member

    Oct 6, 2004
    Central NJ
    You might consider using one of those clay bar systems to start. I find them to work well on clear coats.
  15. Mike, if you're really serious about getting your finish back, I would suggest you do a complete job on the car using high-quality washing compound to start, then apply a clay kit, and finally a high-quality polish. The one I just used on my truck, and it worked beautifully, is made by Turtle Wax and is called "Ice." Buy the clay kit and the polish kit. Claying a finish is a real PITA in terms of effort, but it really does get results. The Ice polish makes the vehicle look like it just came off the showroom floor, but it won't work well unless the surface is properly prepared first with the clay kit.

    Or, of course, you could just trade the car in as a clunker on Obama's new program, and buy a new Ford Focus. :D;):p
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