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Best Mauser for rebarrelling

Discussion in 'Curio & Relics Forum' started by cointoss2, Mar 4, 2003.

  1. cointoss2

    cointoss2 Guest

    Posts: 1
    (5/14/02 12:37:20 am)
    Reply | Edit | Del All Best Mauser for rebarrelling
    I'm a new C&R holder and ordered my first firearm, a CZ52 today.

    My next purchase, I would like a Mauser chambered in 8mm. I would like to take advantage of shooting surplus ammo, but want the option of rebarelling for domestic cartridges in the future. Which Mauser is the best for aftermarket customization. I know I need a large ring receiver/model 98.

    My first choice would be the CZ24 I can pick up for $50(cracked stock)-$60(good cond.). I hope the standard large ring/model 98 accessories will work here.

    My next choice is the German K98 for $60 (cracked stock). It seems to be identicle to the CZ24. I'm guessing that most aftermarket barrels and stocks would work with this gun.

    Then there's the Turkish 1938. Also a large ring/model 98 but have found that some manufaturers specifically exclude the Turkish 1938, which may be because of the variable manufacturing history. But for $25-$40, why not buy some!?

    I've been searching the internet for days trying to figure which rifle to buy, hope someone can lend me their learned advice.

    V.I.P. Member
    Posts: 259
    (5/14/02 12:54:04 am)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Best Mauser for rebarrelling
    The turk mausers had more than one size of threads for the barrels and the only way to find out is to unscrew the barrel and measure. So I would stay away from them if you intend to rebarrel at some time in the furure.
    The Curio and Relic Firearms Forum
    To err is human. But to really screw things up you just about have to have a computer.

    Posts: 6
    (5/14/02 11:37:55 am)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Best Mauser for rebarrelling
    Why do you want to re-barrel a military surplus for domestic cartridges? You should keep your surplus in 8mm, and save yourself the cost and headache of re-barreling. You could buy a savage 110 for around $350 new, or less for used, and it comes already with the bolt bent, drilled and tapped for scope, and it is guaranteed to work properly, By the time you do all this to the mil. surplus, and fix the cracked stock, you will have spent that much.... and you will not have altered an original piece of history....

    Order a nice mauser, keep it original, then buy a savage or other commercial rifle, used to save money.

    Hope this helps

    Posts: 38
    (5/14/02 5:52:32 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Best Mauser for rebarrelling
    Mauserman454 is not pulling your chain when he says you can shoot the 7.92X57 and buy a Savage or whatever for less money than rebarreling/customizing a Mauser 98.
    However! If you decide to delve into the Mauser 98 as a basis for a custom rifle you will see that many hours are needed and many dollars! If you are proficient with a lathe and a milling machine this will help, you should also make friend swith a welder as your bolt will need to be altered. Anyhow, you asked what is the best action to use and of the choices you listed I'd opt for the VZ-24. The metallurgy is excellent, but before you invest any time/money into any Mauser have the action checked for hardness and if you can, try to get it magnafluxed. The VZ-24 tends to be a homogenous steel (similar to 4140) and it through hardens, unlike the early Mausers that used a lower carbon steel and were then carborized adding a tough shell and a mild core. (Not bad in its own right but if you start to grind the receiver and lap bolt lugs you'll be removing much of the carborizing, and the action will need to be re-carborized) You'll want to true the action on a mandrel. There are several excellent ctgs that will work in the 98, unless you want lots of extra work keep away from belted ctgs and "magnum ctgs" sure you can get them to feed but is the extra agravation worth it? Stick with the .243, .308, .257Roberts, 7X57, etc. Mauserman is correct that a Savage is cheaper and its already a sporter. The 8mm is no wimp either. The American Rifleman had an excellent article on handloading for the 8X57, check it out and make your own decision. Sorry for the long post, HTH.
    If you believe it is reprehensible to possess the will and means to repel a criminal assault...how can you rightfully ask another to risk his life to protect yours?

    Posts: 2
    (5/14/02 10:53:33 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Sounds like work
    I definitely want to avoid welding and lath work. That's why I was hoping to get something that will take popular drop in parts. More than likely, I will never get around to modifying this gun. But who knows what will happen in the future, it would be reasuring to know that I can convert to 30-06 or .308 if need be. I will probably just get a set of dies and reload 8mm indefinetly. Thanks for the input folks.

    the real fredneck
    V.I.P. Member
    Posts: 1024
    (5/15/02 2:03:29 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Sounds like work
    original military (surplus) barrels are available for the 98 in 30/06 and 308 it would still look original and use more common ammo

    Posts: 39
    (5/15/02 6:31:44 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: Sounds like work: it absolutely is!
    If you opt for the .308 bbl little work is needed, however if a 98 is rechambered/rebarreled to .30-06 generally the front of the magazine box will need to be altered. The 06 is longer, in order to get it to fit the usual fix is to remove the front of the box and TIG weld a spacer thus allowing the o6 to fit.

    If you believe it is reprehensible to possess the will and means to repel a criminal assault...how can you rightfully ask another to risk his life to protect yours?
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