Blue Wonder gun Blue - anyone tried it?

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by 9 fingers, Jan 9, 2010.

  1. 9 fingers

    9 fingers New Member

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    Hi, found a Blue Wonder video on the web and it looked like great system. Any one tried it? What do you think?
    Thanks, 9 fingers
  2. LurpyGeek

    LurpyGeek Active Member

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    I'm not a chemist or professional gun smith, but I do have some experience with Blue Wonder. My father took a gunsmithing class in college 50 years ago and restored / customized a beautiful Spanish Mauser in 7x57 as his deer rifle. He hasn't really done any gunsmithing since then, but he is an engineer and is very mechanical.

    Last year as part of an indoors "winter project" he decided to restore a Steven's 22-410 that he has had for over 50 years. He looked into hot bluing it and found that it would likely cost more than the rifle. He knew that cold bluing doesn't hold up so well, but he came across Blue Wonder with the tagline "It's not hot blue, it's not cold blue, it's Blue Wonder." He watched several of the demonstration videos online and though he would give it a shot.

    He has been very impressed by the look and durability of the finish. He even blued a piece of steel from the trigger assembly and then carried it around with him all day rubbing it like a worry stone and polishing it with different types of cloth. This had no noticeable effect on the finish.

    I don't work for the company and your results may very, but this was his experience.


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  3. 9 fingers

    9 fingers New Member

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    Thanks for the input, I am going to give it a try. And I love that gun. let me know if you would like to sell it sometime.
    9 fingers
  4. LurpyGeek

    LurpyGeek Active Member

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    Actually...

    He has the Stevens 22-410 pictured above, and he also has a Savage that is almost identical (Savage bought Stevens shortly after the one pictured above was made).

    The Savage (a model 24 I think) is chambered in .22 magnum and .410 shotgun. It's in pretty rough shape as was the Stevens, but he plans to fix it up similarly in the spring and sell it.
  5. Shooter45

    Shooter45 *Administrator* Staff Member

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    Excellent product.
  6. belercous

    belercous Former Guest

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    I've had good luck with it on a Mossberg 20 ga. 185-D shotgun. Just make sure to neutralize it with water.
    I've had better luck (more even coloring) with Brownell's Oxpho-Blue, and I think it is a better product, but Blue Wonder isn't bad. Oxpho-Blue is great for touch-up as it doesn't require the metal to be as clean. It works thru light oil & even light rust where that will leave splotches with Blue Wonder.
  7. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR Active Member

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    I've used it a couple of times but ended up redoing them anyway with a different product. Tried it on a winchester 12 and it never got all that dark. Then also tried it on a slide of a CZ83 and it was really uneven no matter how I applied it. Some people swear by it but for me it was a waist of money.
  8. rclinton

    rclinton New Member

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    I have just finished my first any only attempt at reblueing a firearm. I am very impressed with the finished results I have gotten on my 1963 Sears & Roebuck model 45 30-30 (Marlin 336c) Some tips that worked well for me. I completly disassembled the rifle and blued individual parts. Cleaning/sanding/buffing you your desire, but prep as always is critical. I utilized an electric heat gun vice a propane torch for heat. The key for me was the paalication of heat. If the part is heated (arm/hot to the touch) the application of the blueing goes on better and much darker. Work on sections of the gun at a time, the blueing will blend well. Make sure you use both the neuturalizing oil and the follow up oil tretment for best results. I applied between 2 to 4 coats of the blueing process and like I stated the results were very good. The system is easy to work with and if you make a mistake you can just remove the blueing and start over.
  9. bntyhntr6975

    bntyhntr6975 Member

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    LurpyGeek: My grandfather had (he died several yrs ago) that same Stevens. (My grandmother still has all of his firearms, they will soon be mine.) I never got to shoot it, but thats the one he would always brag about when it came to accuracy. It had bee one of his brother's until he died probly 20 yrs ago, then it went to my grandfather. I was told that my great uncle had bought it new. That little gun put ALOT of squirrels and rabbits on the table. Very nice, thank you.
  10. BPNovum

    BPNovum New Member

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    I haven't been on in a while, but thanks for the testimonial! Looks like the BW did the job for you. Please let me know if you guys have any questions about Blue Wonder.

  11. Big Shrek

    Big Shrek Well-Known Member

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    I picked up a Birchwood-Casey blue kit the other day for one of my beat-up/scratched-up pistols.

    Some of the scratches are pretty deep, I'm thinking about breaking out the Dremel, but they're on curved surfaces
    so I'm unsure of whether the scratches will come off without squaring the round stuff.

    What's the best way to remove scratches without messing up the frame?? Steel Wool ain't doing much...
  12. grcsat

    grcsat Active Member

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    Big Shrek

    I'm a little old fashion when it comes to that. But I use only medium soft honing stones , both ridged flat and thin flexable. Takes a fair amount of time and a little practice.But once you get the hang of it , you'l never use anything else. Also, no rounded edges unless you want them there. It is messey because you use a oil lub. The reults can be amazing when your finished. No rounded corners like the poor quality buff jobs.

    Forgot . Never had any luck with the Casy Blue kits. If you were a little closer I'd give you a bottle of Dicropan-IM. Works real good on hand guns but a pain for rifles.
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2010
  13. gunplumber

    gunplumber New Member

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    Several years ago Bob was in my area and called to see if he could come demonstrate his products. Always on the lookout for a better mousetrap I invited him out. We took a old bbl and polished it out and he reblued it with his product. I was amazed how well it worked but we did have to apply it more than once to get it real dark. For a person who likes to do his own stuff and who doesn't have hot tanks and is not bothered by production time it's the best product I have seen. I didn't purchase it due to the time involved getting the proper color and time involved is THE big factor here. On the other hand, I cleaned a bbl and then he used his bore cleaner on it and I wanted to run backards......I have used his bore cleaner ever since and I'm about out so it's time to reorder.
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2010
  14. gunplumber

    gunplumber New Member

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    I use small flat files wrapped with paper to sand the flats out and a fat gum erasure with paper to sand rounded corners. Rubber heater hose or vac line hoses work on concave surfaces. Demel tools will get you into trouble without lots of care.
  15. grcsat

    grcsat Active Member

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    I can honestly say I learned my lesson with dremel tools. They are great for all sorts of jobs ,But polishing handguns is not one of them. So If you must use them ,be really carefull or better yet try not to use them at all.
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