breaking the sprue?

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by frosty, Feb 18, 2004.

  1. frosty

    frosty New Member

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    How much effort should it take to knock the sprue lever open?
    Alot or what? or very little effort.
  2. ACC

    ACC New Member

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    Frosty:
    Not much,keep it oiled with a fine oil,you'll have no problems
  3. inplanotx

    inplanotx New Member

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    C&R wrote:
    I would advise against oiling the sprue at all. I have never oiled mine and they are about 15 years old with no problems. Just keep the screw tightened properly and then give it a shot with a hammer handle, not the head!

    Sometime during your casting sessions you will see the lead start to smear under the sprue plate. Tighten the screw and clean up the smear and keep going.

    When tightened properly, the sprue plate should flop into position by turning the mould. It may need just a minor tap to completely go into place if the mould is new.
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2004
  4. frosty

    frosty New Member

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    Plano when I was casting I noticed that it was taking very little effort on my part to cut the sprue. In some cases (with a gloved hand) I was able to open the sprue plate by hand with a little effort. Is this o.k. or is it an a clue that I have done some thing wrong.
  5. inplanotx

    inplanotx New Member

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    Sounds as though your sprue is not large enough. You cannot have too much sprue!!!! Too little and you have problems. You should not be able to open it with your fingers. I cover the sprue plate and some of the top of the mould on either side.
  6. frosty

    frosty New Member

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    Hope I did not mislead you. I have a blob about the size of a .50 cent piece on top of each sprue hole. Most of the time the sprue is all one piece across all the sprue holes
  7. inplanotx

    inplanotx New Member

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    Sounds about right, how thick is the sprue? Mine is usually about 1/4" thick and the sprue hole is clearly defined in the sprue when cut.
  8. frosty

    frosty New Member

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    Mine is exactly the same, 1/4" in thickness and the sprue holes are clearly defined (moulded) when you turn over the sprue and look under it or if it falls upside down when I cut it.:)

    I guess I am getting the hang of it.
  9. suryevor

    suryevor Guest

    depends. A single cavity mold has 1/8th

    the resistance ( to shearing off the sprue) as does an 8 cavity gang mold. Harder alloys mean harder shearing of sprues. Letting the mold and alloy cool more means a harder sprue, too. Get a rubber mallet for knocking open the sprueplate., Never touch the hot mold with the rubber, tho. If you melt the rubber onto the mold, you have to cool off and thoroughly clean the rubber off of the mold.
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