Chamber rust--how do I stop it once it has begun?

Discussion in 'Black Powder Shooting / Muzzleloaders / Handguns' started by JayC, Feb 23, 2008.

  1. JayC

    JayC New Member

    Feb 23, 2008
    I have a TTN SxS 12-gauge that I use only for CAS, with Triple 7 loads. The chambers were a little rough when I got it, so I used a Flex-Hone to smooth it up some. I stopped well short of perfection because I believe I would have ended up with a 10-gauge and maybe still not removed the ring around the one chamber.

    In any case, both chambers have recently developed a tendency to rust. No matter how well I scrub them with 0000 steel wool and oil to remove the rust, nor how liberally I oil them when I put the gun away afterwards, within a week or so the rust starts back.

    Is there any type of chemical treatment I can use to stop this? I have considered painting the chambers with NeutraRust, but don’t know what effect that might have on the steel. I assume the problem may be caused in part by cheap Chinese steel. None of my other guns has ever done this—the repeated rusting, I mean.

    Thanks for any help.
  2. Enfield

    Enfield New Member

    Oct 13, 2007
    I am not familiar with your gun or the triple 7 load, however if you are shooting blackpowder as I guess you are being in the black powder forum , I had a similar problem with my Snider carbine. I found that the breach block would rust even when covered with oil. I eventually found out that if I washed it with hot soapy water as you do the barrel then dried and oiled it it was ok. I guess that you had to disolve the powder residue to get ride of the chemicals then the oil did the job.


    Enfield in NZ

  3. Little Rooster

    Little Rooster New Member

    Oct 17, 2007
    Old Dominion
    What are you using to clean with? I have tried BP subs, but always go back to the real thing, I don't get rust unless I don't dry my guns after cleaning.
  4. armedandsafe

    armedandsafe Guest

    Drying after cleaning and before oiling is the trick I've found. Using hot water helps much in this department. I've been pleased with Ballistol and with Wonder Lube for preventing rust, IF I have dried the metal before applying the oil.

    Look here for some test on various lubes and preservatives:
    Scroll down to the two experiments on lubes.

  5. Enfield

    Enfield New Member

    Oct 13, 2007
    I know some of you will not approve but i have always used hot water with dishwashing soap (Fairy liquid or what ever you have in US).

    If you make sure you rinse well with HOT water then dry and immediately spray over with a water displacer like WD40, then wipe off the excess and wipe with a gun oil.

    You may not all agree but it works for me and is heaps cheaper than all the BP solvents. One gun in particular an original .577 Volunteer (Like a Pattn. 1865) used to belong to my dad and has been cleaned like this since the 70's still has a bright clean bore


    Enfield in NZ
  6. Millwright

    Millwright Well-Known Member

    Jun 30, 2005
    Hmmmm, how are you cleaning the critter ? Reads like you're having some sulfide carry over and moist storage conditions which leads to sulphuric acid formation and 'rust'.

    If you're shooting BP the best technique is still HOT water and a good dish detergent followed by a HOT water rinse and dry, followed by a good dose of WD-40 and a good gun oil wipe.

    You can also treat the bores/cylinders with naval jelly to chemically halt the rusting process if the steel is that porous....... >MW
  7. mrkirker

    mrkirker New Member

    Jul 13, 2007
    Have to agree that fully drying before oiling is the key. If the steel has become porous there prob is moisture remaining that a water displacing agent can't remove.

    I've noticed that B/P substitutes tend to crud up pretty fast. Is there a lube that you could use that would soften the crud and make it easier for you to clean?

    I shoot an original Smith Carbine and using HOT HOT water to clean with is the way to go. HOT water and dish soap dissolves the residue very well, warms the steel, and aids in drying. After cleaning, I lay all the parts on a tray and leave them on an open pre-heated oven door. I leave them on the hot door till I think they're dry, then wait another 1/2 hour or so. When they're too hot to pick up comfortably, there's no moisture to worry about. Then coat with a light layer of Ballistol while warm. Wipe off residue, reassemble, and store in a dry area. (Of course I don't expose the forearm or butt stock to the oven heat!) Rifleing remains sharp, and the bore's still bright.
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