Checked out my 06 that I shot my car with.

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by cpttango30, Nov 20, 2012.

  1. bustedmp

    bustedmp New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 3, 2012
    Messages:
    162
    Location:
    Shamokin PA.
  2. Inthewind1976

    Inthewind1976 Member

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2008
    Messages:
    553
    Location:
    Central Pennsylvania
    First of all, trim the screw. Doesnt matter if its a mauser, enfield, springfield, model 70, model 700, or any of 100 other bolt action rifles, its not uncommon to have to trim this screw, ESPECIALLY if you replace the stock, or modify the general alignment of the magazine like you have to to remove the hump of an enfield to make it as sleek as the Model 30 lines. Secondly, glass in the two action screws by enlarging the holes, coating the screws THOROUGHLY with release agent, and glassing the holes in the stock keeping in mind that you ESPECIALLY dont want to overtighten the screws because if the 'glass winds up looking in CROSS SECTION like a capital letter "I" that is the best scenario; the larger diameter with the top and bottom parts of the "I" act sort of like washers in a way, to limit or eliminate any further crushing of the wood in the tang and recoil area action screw passages. This is ESPECIALLY true of most older Savage 110's and the stevens/springfield copies of em. The stocks are made of birch, which is SIGNIFICANTLY softer than walnut or maple, and tend to almost ALWAYS crush to some extent. This is true of the "hardwood" stocks used on most Winchester Ranger's and on the Remington 788. You will also find that the tang area of many less expensive synthetic stocks, like Choate and RamLine are actually HOLLOW in this area, and consist of a little plastic "tab" at the top and bottom of the tang area action screw which will not only "crush" but can completely crack out of the stock's pistol grip body casting. Aluminum or steel pillar "tubes" are also a possibility, BUT......they need to be SECURED in place, not free floating from top to bottom as this WILL affect accuracy in differing weather (heat and humidity) conditions. I dont see anything in the beginning about an accidental discharge, but assume from some of the comments that this may have been mentioned in an earlier thread.............I must say, I am not an expert on the Enfield action having only owned one over the years, and no longer do, so I cant tear into it to check out the "guts" but.............that having been said, the action screw situation should not THEORETICALLY have an affect on the safety of the safety mechanism, sear/trigger engagement, etc. Sounds to me like a trip to the gunsmith is in order, unless you are comfortable with personally disassembling and checking the match up of these surfaces; the contact surfaces of the sear to trigger mechanism should be the entire crux of the issue unless there is something VERY different about the mechanics of an Enfield compared to most any cock on closing action. In any event, retiring the rifle for these issues is akin to retiring your pickup because it needs a starter and new tires; kinda premature.............??
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  3. roundball

    roundball Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2008
    Messages:
    53
    Might do well to back the rear screw out and see if the the problem is there or if some citizen has been monkeying with the trigger/sear. Back in the day there were some modifications sold that were downright dangerous. Seems like Remington later modified the bolt and trigger but the earlier Model 30's used GI parts. It may prove beneficial to look for the simplest answer to this problem first-a butchered up trigger assembly. S picture that would show how the trigger guard and receiver fit it the stock would be helpful.
  4. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2009
    Messages:
    6,397
    If you plan to restock the rifle, I suggest not trimming the screw until you do. Otherwise you might find it too short with the new stock.

    Jim
  5. CHW2021

    CHW2021 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Messages:
    556
    Location:
    Louisiana
    I resolved a similar issue by installing a washer under the rear screw hole of the trigger guard to keep the screw from over tightening and pulling the trigger guard into the now crushed stock resess. Shortening the screw was the other option, but the rear of the guard would still have pulled in below the wood line.
    Would you post a picture of the trigger area of the stock with and without metal?
  6. Buffalochip

    Buffalochip Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2008
    Messages:
    1,100
    It could have been much worse--you might have shot MY car...
  7. whirley

    whirley Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Messages:
    547
    Easiest thing to do is put a couple of washers to shim out the space between the trigger guard and receiver. You can also shorten the screw. All 1917;s were "cock on closing". However many have been modified by their owners to cock on opening. All had the 2 stage military trigger which I prefer, however single stage Timney adjustable triggers are available at Brownells.
Similar Threads
Forum Title Date
Technical Questions & Information H &R Top Break 5 Shot 38 Aug 10, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Remington sportsman 20 gauge 3 shot Jul 27, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Double barrel shotgun forend question Jul 20, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Stevens 39A Bolt Action Shotgun - Removing the Mainspring Retainer Jul 11, 2014
Technical Questions & Information Trying to identify antique shotgun Jun 22, 2014

Share This Page