Cleaning out Checkered Stock

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by jyantkilr, Feb 26, 2012.

  1. jyantkilr

    jyantkilr Former Guest

    Feb 23, 2012
    I started a refinish on this today and dang what a pain. I used stripper on the hand guard, then neutralized it. Had to use a needle to pick out this poly craaapo piled into the checkers. It came out decent I suppose but any easy way to remove this stuff?

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
  2. goofy

    goofy Well-Known Member

    Feb 7, 2011
    I use a tooth brush after letting the stripper sit for 15-20 min.

  3. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

    Oct 24, 2007
    ND, USA
    Yup, A good stiff toothbrush will scrub down into the checkering to help lift the crud out.
  4. jyantkilr

    jyantkilr Former Guest

    Feb 23, 2012
    Yep yep, toothbrush isn't working. These are negative stamped impressions, guess I pick pick pick and more pick.
  5. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

    Dec 6, 2009
    Not super quality checkering. Did you consider simply sanding the stock down to remove it and then having decent checkering done if you want?

  6. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

    Oct 24, 2007
    ND, USA
    Keep soaking and scrubbing. You will be able to get the varnish out of those little divots. The stiffer a brush you have the better digging power.
    Maybe a nylon parts cleaning brush? they're stiffer than even a firm toothbrush...but the bristles are pretty thick too so they are harder to cram down in there to scrub.

    Embossed "checkering" is a PitA isn't it!
    I redid an old beater 870 Express a couple years ago and had the same problem. I was able to get most of the varnish out of the pattern, but I never did get all of the stain removed. It looked about like the fore-end you've got pictured when I gave up on it...but I was restaining it a similar color anyway so it turned out pretty good.

    What type of stripper are you using? Petroleum based (the old-school toluene/xylene/acetone stuff), or the new-fangled citrus-based ("safe" ) stripper?
    If you're using the citrus type, try using some of the petroleum based stuff instead. I still think it just plain works better. Most auto parts stores will have it on the shelf in the autobody section.
    Klean-Strip Aircraft stripper is the one I usually have around.
    Rustoleum also has one that I know works pretty good on varnish too
  7. jyantkilr

    jyantkilr Former Guest

    Feb 23, 2012
    Thank you, I got them all out, needle city. Didn't want too much stripper/water, this is a cheapo checker and pretty fragile. It's a 1957 shotgun so want to leave it original as far as the stock checkering.

    I had gotten it from a friend who did the old slop on the poly, drips included, it had to come off.

    It was some 8 yr. old stripper, water base, had airplane paint stripper but passed on that thought.
  8. cpttango30

    cpttango30 Guest

    You can always get a checkering kit from Brownells and touch them up that way.
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