Help! Old Muzzleloader Rifle I.D with detailed Pics!

Discussion in 'Black Powder Shooting / Muzzleloaders / Handguns' started by Lowsonoma21, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    looking good took a trip to Pbucket

    nice eh

    ;)

    disks sent today including wheel lock plans and info

    hope it helps

    cheers

    jack
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2010
  2. rammed

    rammed New Member

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    Looking good. Since you got the breech plug out, how does the rifling look?
  3. Lowsonoma21

    Lowsonoma21 New Member

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    Thanks Jack -

    The rifling looked perfect, no wear in the barrel at all it seems. When I cleaned it there

    was little to no blackpowder coming out, just orange in color from the rust. It looks like

    it is in mint condition. I thought the barrel was a smooth bore till I looked down it.

    I put some polish on the lock, and it did clean it up a tiny bit. Nothing into detail though, I still gotta figure out how to bring out the art in it.

    Would it be a bad decision to paint the barrel? I did my friends shotgun flat black and it

    looks really good. I saw one online with a black barel and it looked good. If it

    depreciates the value I wont touch it. I also put some compound on the barrel and it

    shined up pretty good. The rust remover didn't take too much off, but enough to notice.




    What would be the best way to apply the varnish? I am good with a rag or sponge, but I do want a perfect finish. Should I get a spray gun and litely touch it?

    Thanks for checkin it out - i'll work on it more later on this week
  4. Pustic

    Pustic Member

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    That gun looks like a Hawken type or some type of a plains rifle.
  5. Shooter45

    Shooter45 *Administrator* Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Look again, Not even close.
  6. rammed

    rammed New Member

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    Brown the barrel and tang. Google plum brown. Use Boiled linseed oil for a finish on the stock.
  7. Lowsonoma21

    Lowsonoma21 New Member

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    Thats a good idea Doug, the tang would make the barrel look good, maybe match the wood more. I looked it up and its only like 10$, but I dont think they ship outside the states, Ill see if we have some around here.

    I dont know about the Linseed oil though. It does do a spectacular job. But it is a little more effort, and has to be applied generously through out the years correct? My plan with the gun is to finish it and mount it on my wall or put on display. Considering that, do you think I'll have to apply it alot when its just sitting, not really being handled? Its hard to get that stuff to dry I heard aswell. Although it does work great on solid woods.

    There is some stuff called “Watco's danish oil”. It penetrates like an oil finish but has a resin mixed in to form a nice build up that hardens in the grain of the wood. Seals and polishes nicely, without the long drying time of plain oil finishes, and never gets gummy (unless you put too much on at once, or have soft woods). What do you think about that stuff?

    I'm in no hurry to throw the coat on, i wanna make sure i use the right stuff.

    What did you think about the brass clean up? I had some compound layin around, it seems to of worked well. Theres probably a chemical I can soak it in to really clean it up.

    You told me to just lub the lock, it turned out alright. Im still gunna take it to someone for a more detailed clean. I ran over it again and got a little more out of the engraving, not too noticable i dont think though.

    The sights were definitely added on later. In the pics you can see the bottom side of the barrel, there is the same inlay for the sights. It looks like they flipped the barrel around and mounted new sights. I kinda like that flip up though it looks cool for display aswell.

    That little peice of alluminum at the tip of the stock/forearm needs to be shined, its got some stuff stuck on it now, with black marks.

    I got some more pics that should display better, after i had cleaned every piece. Tried to get a little fancy with a better display lol. Enjoy!


    http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc67/lowsonoma21/
  8. rammed

    rammed New Member

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    That's not aluminum on the stock. It's poured pewter. The black is normal tarnish. Here is some pics of a light bench rifle I built a few years ago. Barrel and lock was browned with plum brown. The stock finish is linseed oil.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 3, 2010
  9. Lowsonoma21

    Lowsonoma21 New Member

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    That's nice. How long did it take you to finish that? I'd love to put one together like that. Did you make the stock yourself as well? or get someone to make it. I like the finish. That linseed does look good for sure. How much work was it to get that finish? Some people do it for a year, just applying the coats. I'll look into it more. Nice pics
  10. rammed

    rammed New Member

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    I've got 60 to 80 hours in that one. The walnut was harvested about 15 years ago. I air dried it for about 5 years before started using it. All the parts came from Friendship Indiana. I never build one from a "kit". The stock has about 6 coats of linseed oil. Have not done anything else to it since I finished it. It holding up very good. The brass isn't shiny anymore either. I add a little japan drier to the linseed oil. It helps cure the finish. I paint the oil on with a brush for the first coat and keep adding it to it for a couple of hours. Let the wood soak up all it wants. Then use an old towel to wipe off the excess. set it aside for a couple of days. The other coats are applied with my bare hand. Just a little oil and rub until you feel heat being generated. This helps the oil polymerize and dry. Leave it set a couple of days and recoat. When you are pleased with the finish just stop. Depending on the number of coats you can go from a satin finish to a high gloss.
  11. Uncle Miltie

    Uncle Miltie New Member

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    The original rifle in question appears to be a built-up rifle, using old parts. This was very common during the earlier years of the resurgence in muzzleloader shooting, before there were the plethora of suppliers making parts that came in later years.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Miltie.
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