Home Parkerizing

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by CountryGunsmith, Feb 24, 2003.

  1. CountryGunsmith

    CountryGunsmith New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
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    gpostal
    Senior Chief Moderator Staff
    Posts: 1395
    (12/7/01 10:33:25 am)
    Reply | Edit | Del All parkerizing
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    does any one know how to do parkerizing at home ,tac was telling me it can be done on a home stove ,i wanted to see if i could get some step by step instuctions ,on removing old and reparkerizing it ,i have a brownells cat. and can order the stuff to do it

    shot a damn possum last night and scratched the pi** out of my reciver,barrel,mag-tube ,i want to redo it then retire it

    thanks

    Moskovskyya
    Member
    Posts: 1
    (12/7/01 12:18:04 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: parkerizing
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    Its really very easy, and almost always yields professional looking results without much effort. If you purchase the solution and neutralizer from Brownells, it comes with detailed instructions. I wouldn't do it on the stove if the stove is in the house. I use those camping propane burners that you get from the homestores, and had a friend at a welding shop fab up a stainless steel tank 6"X6"X48" for the application. Mix the chemical 14 oz to gallon of water, heat to 170 F, insert parts for 5 mins or so then dip in neutralizer. The bigest problem to solve for a professional finish is the bead blasting. I also rigged up my own blasting equipment with air compressor, after cooler etc. I use very fine glass beads so that the finish won't be rough. Don't hold blasted metal with bear hands, your fingerprints will show in the finish, wear cotton gloves, plug the barrel so the bore doesn't parkerize.
    With a one time practice session you can be an expert. If you screw up, beal blast it off and start over. The solution can be saved and reused, does not hurt it to freeze.

    hope this helps!

    gpostal
    Senior Chief Moderator Staff
    Posts: 1398
    (12/7/01 12:21:40 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: parkerizing
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    when is the beadblasting done?hot or cold?

    how do you remove the old parkerizing,or do you need to


    also WELCOME Moskovskyya


    Edited by: gpostal at: 12/7/01 12:23:58 pm

    AntiqueDr
    Senior Chief Moderator Staff
    Posts: 1506
    (12/7/01 12:52:33 pm)
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    ezSupporter
    Re: parkerizing
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    You can use any commercial rust remover to remove the old finish. Disassemble, and bead blast cold. It is very important to completely clean and degrease the parts prior to immersion in the hot parkerizing solution. Also, pay particular attention to the instructions given by Brownells regarding the neutralizer.

    Brownells does offer an excellent step-by-step instruction manual for the process.

    You will also find that parkerizing in the kitchen is not conducive to marital relations.


    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    www.apaxenterprises.com

    gpostal
    Senior Chief Moderator Staff
    Posts: 1400
    (12/7/01 1:33:05 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: parkerizing
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    doc i dont have to worry about that ,i don't think the wife knows were the kitchen is

    ok i see they have three types of parkerizing ,wich one is best?

    and how do you do recivers?

    a semi-local gunsmith advertises a parkerizing repair ,how is this done? how do they repair a scratch?

    Moskovskyya
    Member
    Posts: 2
    (12/7/01 2:34:41 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: parkerizing
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    Just another couple of tidbits 'bout parkerizing. I have on occasion, (always with through de-greasing as AntiqueDr mentioned, the most important step really) polished an existing blued piece to a nice shine however thin. Then, with the Brownells phosphate parkerizing formula used on top of the blueing, gotten a deep, dark, very rich blue result, unlike beadblasting first, the flat satin finish is not there, its a shiney smooth finish, doesn't look like its been parkerized, it looks deep blued. Also, you can neutralize with Dextron ATF or the green diesel fuel, and on some types of metal you get a plumb, or green tone in the finish. Further, with a mirror polishing of the metal, all blue removed, no blasting, the finish comes out puter (silver-gray) colored, which is yet another variation of finish that can be done.
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