Hot Bluing

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by ShawnDow, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    Helix_FR,
    your right, this post had wandered from its original intent. I started a new post for that... Steps for getting an FFL / Gun shop.
    So back to bluing,
    Rust Bluing... the old fashioned way... the slowww way... I think I want to try that on one of my guns... most likely that Stevens previously pictured. I understand its labor intensive, and isn't a way to make a quick buck... but this is my gun. I see there are a couple of "solution" choices for the Belgium bluing. Are the differences in solutions like looking at Fords and Chevys... or more like VW Beetle vs. BMW 750IL?

    Next question... When I do break down, and at some point I will, and have to Ship a firearm to a Mr. Smith FFL... Do I send it from my place.. General person USA's Post Office, to Mr. Smith FFL? or do I have to find Mr. Smith FFL in Michigan to sent it to Mr. Smith FFL in where ever y'all may be?
    because there isn't one for 25 miles according to the FFL search on the website.
    Again, thank you ,
    Shawn
  2. rhmc24

    rhmc24 Member

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    Here is a Belgian Blue job that I got finely pitted all over, a S&W .44-40 Frontier. Huge amount of prep work. The only heat Belgian Blue needs is boiling water.

    [​IMG]
  3. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    WOW, looks good.
    I know prep work is key!, Removing all "scale" rust, and removing the "big pits" ( with medium, fine, and extra fine 450 ish grit ). And I'm sure there is a point to stop as to where its not safe to remove pits, for the metal is too thin, ( if any one has a picture of an unsafe depth for a pit, pleas post one).
    I hear... but would like to know... after boiling ( in water.. de-ionized? ) you apply the solution (to a wet barrel or part?) and let the rusting take place. when you brush that off later... what are you brushing it off with? A fine wire wheel on a 3500 +/_ RPM bench grinder, steel wool, any thing better? And for the tight nooks and crannies? a Dremmil with a fine wire brush?
    Hey, that wheel gun looks great!
    any way... thanks for the input.
    Shawn Dow
  4. rhmc24

    rhmc24 Member

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    With Belgian Blue I just pull the part out of the boiling water, walk across the kitchen to the sink and swab on the BB. I rub it off with fine 0000 steel wool, no waiting, just trying to get about 6 cycles as soon as possible. It isn't like old rust and comes off easily. No tools, no Dremel, etc. The revolver has a lot of parts and it takes couple hours to do them all.

    All this is from memory since I haven't done it in a few years. I just follow the instructions as closely as possible. If you plan to do it, I recco you prep a piece of scrap, old barrel, etc. and do a trial run to get the hang of it.
  5. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

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    Well things are a lot easier if you have your ffl. if you do you can send it directly to the gunsmith doing the work. send it to the address on his ffl. if you have your ffl then he can send it right back to you if you dont have one then he has to ship it back to a ffl near you. then you'll have to fill out anouther 4473 form and pay a transfer fee. hearters belgium blue is the best by the way
  6. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    this stuff?
    http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/primary/958/958388.jpg

    they are calling it Art's now.. if it is the same product. Now... do I just go my usual rout of getting supplies ( as the link indicates )? Or are there better, more inexpensive places I should be looking?
    Im looking forward to trying something new... Heck if it works on my pea shooter Stevens Model 15, I just might do the same to my MAB Model D. I should put my restoration of that on here... and really let y'all rip into me.
    Thanks for the insight Guys,
    Shawn
  7. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    Where would I put a restoration project on this forum? its an old MAB D model, from 1933 ish... curios and RELICS? or make a new thread under technical questions and information?
  8. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

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    Yep thats the stuff. arts gun shop is about 30 min from mine, he gave me some good pointers on the stuff.
  9. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    well then, If you wouldn't mind, send those pointers my way. Im ordering a pint today.
  10. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

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    Order some express blue too and ill tell you how.
  11. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    express blue is made by? same people.. Art's? Ill look for it, and see what I can find. Thank you for the heads up.
    Shawn
  12. ShawnDow

    ShawnDow Member

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    think I found it.. do I order a volume to match the Art's? 16 oz. or can I go for the 4 oz. bottle?
  13. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

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    It sounds like some confusion here. Belgian Blue is rust blue or at least one version of it. Prior to the invention of caustic salt (hot tank) bluing in the mid-1930's, there were hundreds of formulae for rust bluing, plus of course charcoal bluing, Carbonia bluing, heat bluing, temper bluing, etc. Each gunshop had its own mixture, and every book or article on gunsmithing had one or more concoctions, almost like "The Joy of Bluing." Some gave a real blue, others a black, others a brown, still others a plum color. And each had its devotees, insistent that his brew was best.

    So it is not a matter of hot tank blue vs rust blue - there are other choices, but most of the others are either variations of rust blue and require the same amount of work, or are not practical today in a small shop.

    Jim
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