mainly depends on the type of powder being used. I usually check every 10th round at the beginning and then I visually check each charge in the case before I put the bullet on.
I don't run a progressive. I run powder through dies for pistol. I check my first 10 and then run 50 through in a reloading tray. I go through and measure 5 random cases and visual the entire tray.
After using my Dillon RL550B for over 25 years it has proven to me its ability to give duplicate drops of powder every time. Consequently, I set it then check it a couple of times in the first ten drops of powder then never check it again for an entire reloading session which is often a couple hundred rounds.
But..... I use mostly spherical powders or very small grain powders and only occasionally short cut extruded powders. Even then some powders don't meter well at all and for them I use a Redding BR-30 manually on an adapter on the powder die but that is only one or two calibers of my over 30 different calibers I reload for.
I will never suggest anyone else do it my way. If the book says check the powder drop every 10 rounds then that is what I will suggest. If and when you get confidence in the Dillon powder measure then you can do it any way you want.
As an aside, reloading experts (that is not me) from testing have found that exact measurement of powder to better than a couple of tenths of a grain are a waste of time.The uncontrolled variables in reloading swamp out any advantage of measuring powder to much closer than a couple of tenths of a grain either way from nominal.
After using my Dillon RL550B for over 25 years it has proven to me its ability to give duplicate drops of powder every time. Consequently, I set it then check it a couple of times in the first ten drops of powder then never check it again for an entire reloading session which is often a couple hundred rounds.
But..... I use mostly spherical powders or very small grain powders and only occasionally short cut extruded powders. Even then some powders don't meter well at all and for them I use a Redding BR-30 manually on an adapter on the powder die but that is only one or two calibers of my over 30 different calibers I reload for.
I will never suggest anyone else do it my way. If the book says check the powder drop every 10 rounds then that is what I will suggest. If and when you get confidence in the Dillon powder measure then you can do it any way you want.
As an aside, reloading experts (that is not me) from testing have found that exact measurement of powder to better than a couple of tenths of a grain are a waste of time.The uncontrolled variables in reloading swamp out any advantage of measuring powder to much closer than a couple of tenths of a grain either way from nominal.
I agree with everything said above except, IMO, you seem like a professional to me, or at least from my view point. Past that, ditto, ditto, ditto.
As for being off two-tenths either way? Heck, I could be off two tenths and the round is still going to be much more accurate then I am off hand. If I am progressing to the top of the recipe where I am maxing out my loads then I dial it in closer but past that, I don't worry about it.
My powder measures have no problem metering spherical powders almost dead on, and as for flake it is rarely more then one tenth off. I run several, check it, and if it is good I run it while keeping an eye on the powdered cases before seating the bullet. Then when my powder hopper is about 2/3 low, I refill, recheck, and I am off and running.
I do exactly like LD, I trust the Dillon absolutely. I check the first few drop to make sure I have the right amount set, then I run with it.
I did a little test the other day when I was loading up 9mm. I was using Accurate #7 powder and I ran the loads until I could not see the powder in the powder drop hopper. I reloaded all I intended to then I kept dropping the powder into a case and dumping it back into the can (to clean out the powder drop). I would drop a couple then weigh one. They stayed at 8.0 grains until the last bit of powder was gone, the next to last drop was 8.0 grains and the last drop was 5.4 grains and the hopper was completely empty. I have always been told that when the hopper gets pretty close to empty, the amount of powder that drops will be inconsistent, I now know is the not the case with the Dillon.
The baffle is suppose to reduce the "head" of powder above the powder measure slide or drum so that weight of the column of powder does not effect the quantity of powder metered. The Dillon measure comes with the baffle very near the bottom so adding powder is not necessary (theoretically) until the level falls below the baffle. But your testing assures me that we Dillion owners can wait even longer. I'll stick to using the baffle as a level guide as to when to add powder.
I see other's measures with the baffle way up the reservoir and wonder why (??). It makes the most sense to me for the baffle to be low in the reservoir like Dillon does it. And the recommendation of adding powder when the reservoir is half full when the measure has a baffle in it that is much lower than that seems really stupid to me (??).
But what do I know? I use my common sense and experience to evaluate any suggestions I get either in books or from other reloaders. We all should do the same but keep safety in mind!
I do exactly like LD, I trust the Dillon absolutely. I check the first few drop to make sure I have the right amount set, then I run with it.
I did a little test the other day when I was loading up 9mm. I was using Accurate #7 powder and I ran the loads until I could not see the powder in the powder drop hopper. I reloaded all I intended to then I kept dropping the powder into a case and dumping it back into the can (to clean out the powder drop). I would drop a couple then weigh one. They stayed at 8.0 grains until the last bit of powder was gone, the next to last drop was 8.0 grains and the last drop was 5.4 grains and the hopper was completely empty. I have always been told that when the hopper gets pretty close to empty, the amount of powder that drops will be inconsistent, I now know is the not the case with the Dillon.
Good to know. I've only been loading with my 550 for a year and feel it best to check myself. Not necessarily the Dillon. I find that if I take a short break. The load will be a little off but is back on by the 10th charge . So I'll usually drop 10 then start loading again. After checking of coarse.
I used to setup with ten consistent charges and go, never double checking the charge. Then one day I discovered a piece of plastic filing from the jug was in the powder. It made its way down the powder measure and partially blocked the metering insert. As a result the drops were less than half, and I had the pleasure of pulling 50 or so rounds. I now frequently check powder drops.
I have checked my Lee about every 20th round or so but I don't check my Dillon as often
If I run 50 rounds, I might check a few if I am using the same set up as before
like Woolleyworm said, I do look down the neck of each case before I seat the bullet
1) How well do you know the powder measure and press? After a while, you gain confidence and start checking less.
2) I run with an RCBS Lock-Out die and I inspect every case before I put a bullet in.
So far, despite the Lock-Out die locking up, every charge has been right on. Lock-Out die and the Dillon Powder Check die are more sensitive than required and could almost be used to set the powder measure they are so sensitive.
I check ten charges before I even start to load. Then I will check one in the middle and the last one. All of that is with a scale. I check every powder charge by looking in the case before I set the bullet on to be seated.
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