How to get rust off of a blade.

Discussion in 'Knives & Edged Items' started by bmpeele, May 7, 2010.

  1. bmpeele

    bmpeele New Member

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    I have an old WWII USN MKII Ka-Bar with rust spots along the blade. They're not big, but they're plentiful. What could I use to remove the rust wothout taking off the black coating?
  2. big steve

    big steve New Member

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    There is a liquid type substance that you can get in your local hardware store called naval jelly it was used in the navy to take off rust and that stuff works great on everything it comes in a little bottle i suggest trying that.

    Steve
  3. bmpeele

    bmpeele New Member

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    Thanks Steve, do you know if they carry it at ACE?
  4. Mosin_Nagant_Fan

    Mosin_Nagant_Fan New Member

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  5. USMCSpeedy

    USMCSpeedy Member

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    Ace should have it. Either that or try any place that sells paint supplies as it is used as a prep before painting.
  6. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Active Member

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    DON'T use rust removers on knives. They can damage the edge-holding ability, and will probably remove the black coating. If the blade is actually blued, use 0000 steel wool soaked with WD 40. If the blade is painted, you will have to remove the paint to get to the rust.
    I see that the knife is a WW2 knife. My suggestion is to use nothing but oil or WD 40 on a rag to get as much rust off as possible. Anything else will destroy the value of the knife. Post pictures here and I can tell you more, but DO NOT use a rust remover!
    Last edited: May 7, 2010
  7. bmpeele

    bmpeele New Member

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    I'm just trying to restore as a collectors peice, not as a utility knife. And by the look of the edge trying to use as a utility knife would cause more harm than good.
  8. RJay

    RJay Active Member

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    OK, but use Naval Jelly at your own risk, it will remove more than rust:)
  9. bmpeele

    bmpeele New Member

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  10. stede

    stede Member

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    What Bill and Rjay say is true- Naval Jelly will remove paint, blueing, and other forms of protective coatings. It will also discolor bare steel. It is an industrial rust remover and completely inappropriate for use on anything of collector/historical value. It is, of course, your choice... but you run the considerable- nay, almost certain- risk of destroying any collectors value your knife may hold if you put the pink goo on it....
    ...I speak from regrettable experience. 'nuff said.
  11. big steve

    big steve New Member

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    Yes ACE should definetly have it.
  12. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Active Member

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    Since you seem headstrong about chemically removing the rust-
    A WW2 Kabar in decent shape is reasonably valuable. It should only be professionally cleaned, if at all. If you truly want the knife as a "collector's piece" as you say, it will have absolutely no collector value if you go forward with your plan.
  13. bmpeele

    bmpeele New Member

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    I have taken the knife to someone to get a value on how much it is worth and they said it was around $60.00 which is alot more than what I paid. The reason I want to restore it though is because I hate to see a peice of history in this kind of shape. It is kind of obvious that the previous owner did not take care of it at all.
  14. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Active Member

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    Post a picture of it. I restore knives professionally, and I'll tell you how to do it.
  15. Mosin_Nagant_Fan

    Mosin_Nagant_Fan New Member

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    Well, you can oil it to prevent more rust, but I would try everything to prevent it from turning into dust. I suppose an industrial strength cleaner isn't the best choice, as with all of the opposition with Naval Jelly.
    Last edited: May 10, 2010
  16. bmpeele

    bmpeele New Member

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    Okay no naval jelly then. And as for the pictures I do not have a camera at this time.
  17. aquaman

    aquaman New Member

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    If the blade is lightly rusted with no apparant "pitting" you can use a paste product called "Flitz" It will not remove the finish off the blade if it is hot blued, which this blade should be. The "Flitz" will not buff out any pitting, but only remove the rust, dirt and grime and leave a thin protective coating in the areas where the rust was removed. I would then coat the blade in a light oil, not WD-40 and wipe off the excess so as not to deposit oil in your display area. If this knife has a stacked leather washer handle, the "Flitz" will also clean the dirt, stains, and grime off the leather as well. If you use "Flitz" on the leather be sure to then use a non-staining leather cleaner or leather balm to condition the leather washers and to remove any resudaul Flitz from the leather.

    Most sporting goods stores, gun shops, gun shows, and knife shops will carry this product and I am sure you can buy it online as well. Be cautious it is "habit forming". Once you how well it works you will be using it on all your knives and guns alike. Please bear in mind it will take off a "cold blue" fiinish, as well as most painted finishes.
  18. dons2346

    dons2346 Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I have used Liquid Wrench to remove rust. Soak a cloth in LW and wrap the knife in it and let it sit.

    Muratic (sp?) acid can also be used. Dilute it and apply with a cloth, rubbing the rust, then rinse with water.

    I have also used brake fluid to remove rust spots from a blued finish. It removes minor rust without harming the finish.
  19. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Active Member

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    Muriatic acid will also remove bluing.
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