Idiot scratch

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by bandw14, Jul 31, 2011.

  1. bandw14

    bandw14 New Member

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    What is the best method to remove an idiot scratch from a brushed stainless frame. I've been told to use flitz with a scotch brite pad but the pad seems awful rough. Any other suggestions as to the materials to use?
  2. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

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    G'day and welcome to TFF bandw14,

    brushed is a lot of work to do right and get right , nice looking but yeah scratches going the wrong way stick out , i dont have a answer for you but i do wish you good luck with it and i'll be watching to see how the other members say how to do it too
  3. woolleyworm

    woolleyworm Active Member

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    Welcome to the forum. What model gun do you have? The first thing I would do is to call the mfg and find out about the finish specs. This is the first step in determining the best method for removing the scratch.

    If the mfg can't help you with specs, then the flitz and scotchbrite should work fine, I'd test it on a small area first and start with the finer grts and work to the coarser grits if needed. I would recommed putting the gun into a vise or securing it to a work surface in order to keep your sanding strokes going in the direction of the grain.

    Can you post a pic of the scratch?

    I've never tried this product, but your question prompted me to do some more research on this : http://www.finishing.com/Chemicals/restoreityourself.shtml I sent them an email and we'll see what they say; it sounds like these guys know their SS.

    I did a sink repair and I used 400 grit to brush it out after I welded and ground it. It blended in nicely and could barely be noticed. A sink is a wee bit different than a cherished gun though; I like mine looking as good as possible too.

    Semper Fi,

    Woolley
  4. carver

    carver Moderator

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    Call a local gun smith to see what he would charge for the repair. If it ain't right when he gets thru, then he has to lick that calf again at his expence.
  5. bandw14

    bandw14 New Member

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    Its on a Kimber Grand Raptor II but it looks worse in the photo.

    Attached Files:

  6. ozo

    ozo Active Member

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    A scotchbrite pad will leave it's path.
    Everywhere you polish with it you will be able to see.
    Even being as gentle as possible, you will leave some trace
    no matter how lightly you polish, or what compound
    you use, and what cloth.
    The only way to polish it out with the least visible sign
    of doing so.......is to polish out the scratch.......then
    finish by polishing the entire gun.
    I would not even consider a scotchbrite pad, and only use
    cheesecloth, terry, or microfiber, possibly flannel.
    You cannot match the finish.........and each nano-inch
    you polish will create it's own new finish....to some degree.
    It's just the nature of the beast.
    Best method, strip it down [grips, sights, etc.] and polish
    the whole thing. Flitz is great......I use it a lot.
  7. woolleyworm

    woolleyworm Active Member

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    I think you'd be able to tear it down to the frame, mask off any areas that are not a brushed finish and then start working on it. Again, I would recommend calling Kimber and running it by them first and get their advice. It may be something that they could take care of and not have the hassle. I don't see it being difficult for them to re-run the frame through the finishing process on that side. Just a teardown and reassembly is all that would be needed; nothing technical.

    Ozo - He's going for a brushed finish, not a polished one. This is where the "scratchiness" of the scotbrite is needed and desired. It's a matter of matching the factory finish, which hopefully Kimber will divulge.
  8. Shooter45

    Shooter45 *Administrator* Staff Member

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    I always use a green Scotchbrite pad.....dry, and use it lightly. You are not polishing just removing a scratch. I'd invest in a Widget from Pachmyer and use it to keep from scratching your pistol again.
  9. Jim K

    Jim K New Member

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    The sequence goes like this:
    1. Buy used gun
    2. Discover idiot mark
    3. Cuss
    4. Work to polish out idiot mark
    5. Get gun looking perfect.
    6. Assemble gun
    7. Leave idiot mark
    8. Go to 3

    Jim
  10. ka64

    ka64 Active Member

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    AMEN to that. I start to sweat each time........
  11. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    I dont sweat idiot marks.. All working guns have them and in my mind, they add character..

    You should see my Taurus 1911, its riddles with holster wear, scratches, chips and dings. but still holds tight groups and thats what matters..
  12. ka64

    ka64 Active Member

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    Remindes me of the WIFE :D
  13. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Are you married to a 1911?? :cool:
  14. Zane71464

    Zane71464 Well-Known Member

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    'bout all my guns have some marks, but they are, what I call, working guns.
    I use them alot and they are going to get marks. Ive only got a few that hasnt
    got some marks and they sit in the safe and dont get used alot.
    I bought an almost new Savage 7mmMag of a guy, he saw it a year later and asked, or said, "what in the heack?" That was like new! I just looked at him and told him,
    it gets used, ALOT!
  15. ka64

    ka64 Active Member

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    I think she'd take that as a Compliment. ;)
  16. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    Good woman then..;)
  17. TerragonSix

    TerragonSix New Member

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    If it could cook, I'd marry one! :D
  18. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

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    Red Arkansas stone takes them out easily but it takes some practice to blend everything properly. I remove a idiot mark at least once a month. Brushed stainless is the easiest. Blued 1911 you get to start over.
  19. Zane71464

    Zane71464 Well-Known Member

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    Good to know Helix, and *taking note.
  20. ka64

    ka64 Active Member

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    That's why I call her My Little Pony. :D
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