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Introduction to Checkering

1K views 13 replies 10 participants last post by  goofy 
#1 ·
Started practicing checkering the other day in school. seems i have a knack for it.
 
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#7 · (Edited)
I have been checkering for some years now.
It is not easy but I think you got it.
Now you need to see the difference between flat and curved when you are checkering.
When you are doing stocks it brings a whole different learning curve. (no pun intended).
Forends are the hardest because you are always turning your wood.
Then there is dealing with different woods and grains. Some hard and some soft and some grain tight and some lose.
Just a couple suggestions(If you do not mind).
Cut your out line first but only 1/2 way deep and cut all the lines (diamonds) in one direction cutting with 3 passes a little at a time(deep). Then cut the other direction(your corresponding lines).
Your first pass of ALL lines in one direction should only scratch the wood then deepen on each pass after that.
Do not cut your 45% (using a 45% cutter)called a finish line cutter intill ALL lines(both directions) are cut with a 33% cutter. Never use a 45% to start your cuts or work them intill it is the final pass.
You want your diamonds 3 1/2 or 3 times longer then their width.
There are different LPI (lines per inch) 16,18,20,22,24,26,28, and 32 and every gun maker will use different LPI.
I have many different cutters but stay away from multiple line cutters they are almost imposable to use on a curved surface.
Trying to save time is not the way to go.
Like I said you are getting it now it is time to do this on a broken stock and practice, practice, practice...
Getting the design on both side of the stock can be a bummer so they line up and are equal.
Draw your outline with a pencil because you will be moving it to line up both sides.
One final thing DO NOT CHECKER wood that has a finish on it sand where your checkering is going because you will clog your cutters and have to clean them ALL THE TIME. Use a brass brush to clean them.
If you have any questions just ask........
Get a DEM-BART checkering gauge to use this is the best way to get your lines at the right angle.
Mike
 
#12 ·
Looking great!!!
It looks like you are using a single line cutter to do all the work?.
You might want to get a space line cutter that keeps all lines equal distance apart. And keeps you from running one line into another. and keeps your lines from spreading out around the curve of the wood.
It looks like you are using one cutter to do all the work. This makes it imposable to get it equal(your diamonds) and angles.
Are you using a 60 degree cutter first and then a 90 degree to finish?
And if you did not use a DEM- Mar gauge you should get one because it will help you keep your diamonds equal size and start your lines in the middle of your pattern and work them to one side and then to the other side.
I am not trying to insult your work please do not think I am. I am just trying to help you learn.
Your edging is cut with a outside line cutter they come in different patterns I mainly use the 1/2 circle cutter that adds to the look.
I see you are drawling you pattern free hand try using a template cut from thin plastic this helps getting the pattern equal and is easy to center your pattern on both sides. And also lets you transfer the pattern on all the guns you are doing the same. I have many patterns if you like PM me and I can send you one.
You are getting it down all you need is to invest in many cutters they are used to do different things that using one cutter can not do.
The minimum of cutters you should have are
Single line cutter both fine and course. A 60 degree and a 90 degree (90 degree for finishing)
left and right hand spacing cutters
Wide and narrow border cutters
And short single cutter for getting in the tight spots.
This is not easy and you are getting it so keep going .
But please get all the tools you need it makes it easier and you will see the difference in your final work.
Again I am just trying to help you not put down your work.
Not many people can get this right but you are getting it and are on your way of becoming a someone who can make some money at it.
In my other post I wrote 33 degree and 45 degree I was wrong they are the 60 degree and 90 degree cutters.
Mike
 
#13 ·
Mike,
the gage came in the Dem-Bart Master kit that was part of our tool kit. pretty sure all our cutters are 60 degree. i do have the wide border tool. i also use the spacer tool to get the width. i've been looking to get more cutters but they seem to be sold out at brownells which i have to have the cheaper prices. if know any other sources for them let me know. i really want to keep with this. know to find some junk stocks i can practice on.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
PM me You pay for shipping and I can send you some old stocks that are only good for practicing on.
If you don't mind looking at some of my "learning" mistakes.;)
You can go around to the local shops and see if they have any broken stocks that they have replaced and see if they will give them to you.
Mike

If you are using the spacer cutter and am getting a "spread" of your lines then you are not turning the wood enough so that you are cutting on a flat surface. Sometimes you turn the wood ALL the time when you are going over a curve. You turn the wood as much as the cutter. Try not to tilt the cutter just the wood. your cutter should always be "Flat" (level).
Get a 90 degree to finish the diamonds you will see a BIG difference in the points of the diamonds.
Mike
 
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