Iver Johnson .32 Cylinder Differences?

Discussion in 'The Ask the Pros & What's It Worth? Forum' started by Dutch3, Jan 8, 2011.

  1. Dutch3

    Dutch3 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
    Messages:
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    Location:
    Northern California
    I am hoping someone can answer a question for me regarding cylinder design variations. Some 5-shot .32 S&W Iver Johnson top-break cylinders have a "long" machined cut for lockup without a defined "stop" at the deeper end. Others have a much shorter ramp with a defined perpendicular notch.

    Some Examples:

    "Long" version
    [​IMG]


    "Short" version
    [​IMG]


    I have seen both examples on early and late versions of these revolvers, both Safety Hammer and Hammerless. I have swapped some cylinders around and they seem to be quite interchangeable. Is there any significance to the design differences?

    I would appreciate any information.

    -D
  2. b.goforth

    b.goforth New Member

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    Location:
    houston, tx
    all first and second model safety automatic revolvers have non-automatic cylinder stop. the cylinder stop is actually made as part on the trigger and not a seperate part. these have the long enlongated cylinder stop, early first models have a hook on the top strap to retain cylinder(1894 only). most first models and all second models use the threaded cylinder bushing to retain cylinder (1895-1908). when the thrid model was introduced in 1909 one of the changes was an automatic cylinder stop was added. these use the rectanglar postive stop and the cylinder stop is a seperate part. in 1911 a new type of cylinder retainer was introduced, having a lug on the bottom of the forcing cone that had to be match up to a slot on the cylinder bushing. this is very postive and did away with the threads on the cylinder bushing which tended to wear with age.

    in total there are four type of cylinders used of the safety automatic revolver.
    1894-only= retained by hook on bottom of top strap (non automatic cyl. stop)
    1895-1908= threaded cylinder bushing (non automatic cylinder stop)
    1909-1910= threaded cylinder bushing (automatic cylinder stop)
    1911-1942= collar on cylinder bushing and lug on barrel ( automatic cyl. stop).
    these changes were made in all calibers 22, 32 and 38.

    only the cylinders within these four types are interchangable. no cylinder outside of these types are interchanable. your pictures only show the second (threaded cylinder bushing non auto cyl. stop) and the last fourth type (collar and lug auto cyl. stop). the majority of the safety automatic revolver do fall into these two types.

    for a quick and easy way to tell the first and second and the thrid models apart. look at your pictures
    first model= side lever barrel latch
    second model= two pins on frame between cylinder and trigger
    third model= four pins on frame between cylinder and trigger

    most people do not care to get this technical but there are many small changes in the first and second model and even the third model which show a progession of design changes to manufacture the safest and best top break revolver.
    bill
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2011
  3. Jim Hauff

    Jim Hauff New Member

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    And that, ladies and gentlemen, is an example of why Bill G. is THE I.J. "Go to Guy"!
  4. Dutch3

    Dutch3 New Member

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    Jan 8, 2011
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    Location:
    Northern California
    Thank you for the detailed information, Mr G!

    I am a little bit confused, as I believe I have a late 2nd model ("S" prefix) with a threaded-bushing positive-stop cylinder in it...and it seems to operate properly.

    Perhaps I need to look more closely.

    -D
  5. J_N_Buddy

    J_N_Buddy New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2011
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    1
    This comment is related to Jim Hauff, you posted a picture of a revolver just like mine, I just acquired a Iver Johnson revolver and it is in very poor condition, whoever it was before me dumbass sprayed painted this gun black, I assume it was nickel I can't give very little info about this gun, I do know I need a trigger spring and grips for this gun, I will try to post more latter when I find out more. the serial no. is very hard to see I am going to try and clean it up some. Then I will post more. can anyone tell me where to look for parte for this gun. Thank You
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