Lee factory crimp for M1 Garand

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by GBertolet, May 10, 2009.

  1. GBertolet

    GBertolet Member

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2009
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    51
    I've heard that many competive shooters using the Garand feel factory ball ammo shoots better than reloads, due to the asphalt cement on the bullet increasing the bullet pull. I am using Hornady 150 gr fmjbt bullets with a cannelure. Would the Lee factory crimp die create the same condition? Anyone have firsthand knowledge on this?
  2. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    18,261
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    The lee factory crimp die will improve bullet pull, and is a must for all semi auto rifles. If you want to recreate the mil-surp you can get some bullet sealer and then crimp. The bullet sealer is not necessary though.
  3. Blackout

    Blackout New Member

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    May 2, 2009
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    What is the difference between Lee's factory crimp die and a taper crimp die? I reload 308 for my M1A and use a Redding taper crimp die. I use Hornady's BTHP Match bullets which have no cannelure. Will the Lee factory crimp die work with no cannelure? Will a taper crimp die work with a cannelure?

    Thanks.
  4. firewrench044

    firewrench044 New Member

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    Location:
    Ft. Pierce, FL
    I shoot in a Garand Match every fourth Sat. of the month

    I never crimp 30-06, it is not needed, the neck tension is enough
    ( even if the bullet has a crimping gruve )
    none of the other Garand competeters that I know, crimp
    none of the competetors using any caliber in any rifle in any competion
    that I know, crimp

    a crimp just adds another varyable ( when loading for competion you try and eliminate as many diferances (varyables) as you can )

    and yes the Greek surplus (head stamp -HXP) is very good ammo
    ( some say it is comparable to match grade ammo )
    ( that is what is available through the CMP at this time )

    The sealer just makes the ammo as water resistant as posible
    ( for military use in very foul weather conditions )
  5. Alpo

    Alpo Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    NW Florida
    My little brother, who shoots competitive high-power rifle (M1A, 7.62 NATO), introduced me to the FCD. The man who told him about it shoots on the Air Force rifle team.

    A taper-crimp die has a slightly funnel shape to it. As you raise the shell in the die, it keeps getting pushed into a thinner (tighter) and thinner area, which squeezes the bullet/casemouth together tighter and tighter. The Lee FCD, for bottleneck cases, has a movable bottom, and fingers that come out from the side of the die. When the shellholder pushes on the movable bottom, this forces the fingers to come straight out from the sides of the die. The finger ends curved, so that when they come together in the middle of the die, they form a circle. Your bulletnose/casemouth is sticking up through the circle. The fingers squeeze, all at the same time, all with the same force, a crimp into your cartridge. If you screw the die in a little farther, the shellholder will be pushing on the bottom a little more, which makes the fingers squeeze harder - more crimp. Back the die out a little, the shellholder pushes less, the fingers squeeze less - less crimp.

    With a taper-crimp die, since you are pushing your case up into the die, if you have it set too deep, while attempting to push the case all the way up, you reach a point where the case won't go up any higher. If you keep pushing past this point, something has to give. Either your steel press, your steel die, or your brass case. So, your brass case gives, the bullet gets pushed back a little into the case, which causes the shoulder of the case to bulge. Now the round won't fit in your gun. This cannot happen with the FCD, since you are not putting any downward pressure on the case at all. All pressure is coming from the side.

    Yes, the Lee die will work with bullets without a cannelure.
    Last edited: May 11, 2009
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