Making flat springs

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by Helix_FR, Aug 26, 2009.

  1. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR Active Member

    Apr 14, 2009
    Imperial, MO
    anyone have any good reads or advice on making flat springs. I recently reassembled a chicago arms single shot SG for a guy and now he has 3 more, all needing trigger springs. Someone made a failed attempt at lightening the trigger resulting in springs that are too short to seat correctly or push the trigger far enough forward to engauge the hammer. Replacement are no where to be found in fact there is little info on the chicago arms SG's at all.(I know they were a Sears brand made by Fred Biffer) He doesn't plan on firing them (I also advised him not to) but he wants them to be fully functional. I don't expect my first go around at making flat springs to be a success but I figured it may be another notch in my knowledge.
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2009
  2. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2006
    Use 1095 steel. O1 or 1080 will work, too.
    Make the springs in the annealed state. Drill holes and polish the springs.
    Using a firebrick or other heat reflective material, heat the spring to bright red and quench in canola oil immediately. If the spring is properly hardened, a file will skate off the surface. If the file does not skate, the spring will never work, so re-harden until you get the proper hardness.
    Once hardened, all discoloration must be polished off the spring. Polish to bright steel.
    Using the torch on a low setting, gently heat the spring to just past blue color and let it air cool. Keep the torch moving over the work to heat it evenly.
    Done-you have a spring.

  3. Enfield

    Enfield New Member

    Oct 13, 2007
    Hi Guys
    I made a spring for an old H & R revolver only last weekend and it worked just fine.

    Now I learnt an old gun makers trick years ago, the trick is in the tempering.

    What Bill says is spot on but it can sometimes be difficult to get the heat even for the final stage - if the spring is too hard it snaps like a carrot :mad: and if it is too soft it will stay bent and not "spring" :(. What I do for the final stage is to place the spring in a shallow pan of motor oil (an old tobbaco tin is good), heat the oil until it starts to burn and keep it burning untill it is all gone but dont play the flame on the spring . You then let it cool down and there you go it is cooked just right.

    I understand that they used to use Whale oil but that is obviously not available now.

    I have made a few like this have never had a failure.

    Best of luck

  4. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR Active Member

    Apr 14, 2009
    Imperial, MO
    Thanks Guys. question for Bill. Some of the springs that I need to make have to be bent to fit properly. (some have a slight arc) will bending and shaping the springs in the annealed state cause any issues? Do I need to draw the anneal out before hand by heating? Thanks and sorry for the semi amateur questions.
  5. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Well-Known Member

    Apr 7, 2006
    If you can bend the steel, and it stays that way-it is annealed. There should be no issues in your case. Drastic bends (90 degrees +) should be made at red heat.
    Should you need to anneal your steel, heat it to red, and let it air cool.
    Please understand that the steel has to be of a type that has enough carbon content to make a spring. Just any steel won't do.
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