Marlin 60 Hard Trigger Pull Fix

Discussion in '.22-Rimfire Forum' started by CB350, Dec 26, 2011.

  1. CB350

    CB350 New Member

    Jan 1, 2009
    I recently bought a Marlin 60 with a synthetic stock and factory installed scope. I needed a semi-auto .22 and the Marlin 60 was recommended as a good buy in Gun Tests magazine. The first time I shot the rifle I thought I had left the safety on. I was close to the limit of how much pressure I could apply with my trigger finger. I cycled the safety and bolt to try and clear up the problem, but no joy. I was so irritated I called the customer care number and ended up sending the rifle back for service.

    To their credit, the total turn around time for the warranty work was less than 2 weeks. However, the rifle came back with a no trouble found repair code and a note that the trigger pull was in spec! I shot it and the trigger pull was not as hard as before, but was still horribly. It had no resistance at the start of the pull, and then it hit some slight resistance and then finally at the end had a consistent but hard pull until release of the hammer.

    I then went on line to find out how to fix the Marlin’s trigger pull. I found out that there is a cottage industry in the US concentrating on trigger fixes for Marlin rimfire rifles. I did not want to pull apart the trigger group, so I ended up using the suggestion to place JB Weld on the nose of the trigger.

    So I now did what I should have done in the first place. I pulled the rifle apart and hosed down the rifle action and bolt with a can of gun blaster cleaner. I then spayed gun oil on both parts and let them soak. I placed JB weld on the nose of the trigger using a cotton swab. I was lucky; it went on smoothly and dried to a nice round shape. The picture below shows the JB weld after it had dried. I then cleaned up the excess oil and put the gun together.

    Marlin 60 Trigger Mod Dec 2011.jpg

    I shot the gun and the trigger pull was much better. The slack was gone; the trigger now had just a small amount of travel with low resistance and then went into a less heavy pull until firing. It was still heavier then I liked, but as I said, I do not want to dig into the trigger group. The next time I pull the rifle apart for cleaning, I will add a little more JB Weld. That should totally eliminate the small amount of low resistance movement in the trigger.

    One of the good things about this episode is it gave me an excuse to buy a trigger pull gauge. I ordered a Lyman digital trigger pull gauge from Natchez Shooters Supply. When the gauge arrived, I checked the trigger pull from my fix and the pull averages about 5 ¾ pounds.

    As a final note that is not related to the trigger, the factory provided scope was a no name scope with horrible optics. It also changed horizontal point of impact when I adjusted it vertically. So, I put a 4 power Nikon Pro-Staff on the gun. The only issue was I had to remove the rear sights to give clearance for the front bell of the scope.

    Hopefully my experience will add to the database of knowledge on trigger fixes for the Marlin 60.
  2. nynomad

    nynomad Member

    Apr 8, 2010
    Loosk liek a great easy to do "tip" - thanks

  3. hardluk1

    hardluk1 Member

    Nov 15, 2011
    nc mountains
    How does adding some Jb to the hammer help the trigger pull. With out stoneing parts smoother, changeing or modifing springs it still has the same pull weight.
  4. CB350

    CB350 New Member

    Jan 1, 2009
    I think the cleaning and oiling helped the trigger pull. My guess is there was some crud or metal shavings left over from manufacturing. The JB Weld removed the slop in the trigger.
  5. StoneChimney

    StoneChimney New Member

    Nov 27, 2010
    I do not recommend this procedure as described. First, it can do nothing to lighten the trigger pull - it will only reduce the amount of takeup before the trigger face hits the disconnector. Second, the instructions as described may result in an unsafe rifle.

    The front of the trigger face pushes against the disconnector which in turn cams the sear out of the hammer notch. By design, there is a little gap there which is felt in the first stage of the trigger pull where you are simply pulling against the trigger spring. The rest of the trigger pull represents the sear spring, disconnector spring and mainspring as well as the smoothness of the mating surfaces between disconnector, sear and hammer.

    Removing the takeup will allow the trigger face to rest against the rear of the disconnector. Depending on any other slop in the action, including the tightness of the trigger guard screws and takedown screw, this can cause the disconnector to not reset which may result in uncontrolled firing.

    This DIY "fix" can improve takeup in the Marlin 60 trigger but it MUST be done with an understanding of how the trigger group works. An actual trigger job on the Marlin 60 involves squaring the geometry between sear and hammer, smoothing bearing surfaces, and altering spring tensions - all of which is inside the action assembly. If the trigger takeup is the issue, we recommend drilling/tapping the trigger for a set screw.
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