need advice..BP 1851 navy

Discussion in 'Black Powder Shooting / Muzzleloaders / Handguns' started by RugerBob, Nov 3, 2007.

  1. RugerBob

    RugerBob New Member

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    hi all, I have been shooting regular single action revolvers for a few years and enjoy it. also reload 45LC for revolvers and rifle. anyway, I just ordered 2 1851 BP navy revolvers from Taylor arms, I am new to black powder and don't know any one who shoots them where I shoot. So , any advice or input would be appriciated. They are 36 cal steel frame, octagon barrel.Thanks in advance all, Bob
  2. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    My brass frame 1851 (actually my son's...) uses .375 balls or conicals...the misnomer is that hey were ".36s," they are actually "38s," just like the ".44s" are actually ".45s..."

    We never shot much more than 15 grains FFFg Black Powder through ours, and usually kept it around 12, mainly because of the brass frame...with the steel frames you can go a little more.


    Generally speaking, you load the powder, then the ball or conical bullet, (it should "shave" a little ring off, which means it is seated tightly, ) then you add a dolop of grease or Crisco on top of the ball in the cylinder to lube it and to seal it against any "crossfire."

    I would suggest you send off for a Dixie Gun Works Catalogue, it will be the best $6 you can spend, if you are starting out...

    Not ONLY for stuff you can buy, but they have a whole large section on loading and shooting just about anything blackpowder...

    I also have a Traditions steel frame 1860, that I shoot 25 grains of FFFg behind a .452 ball or conical...

    I have also experimented with "paper" self contained cartridges (they have the "recipe" in the Dixie Catalogue,) but I have found them to be not much faster!

    www.dixiegunworks.com
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2007
  3. Polish, was it FFFg or FFg they used for the M4 main gun? I forget. :D;):p

    Seriously, Polish is right on the loads with a brass frame. I wouldn't go more than 15 grains FFFg, and probably not that much. There's no sense trying to make that revolver do what it was never designed to do.
  4. RugerBob

    RugerBob New Member

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    Thanks for the input. I hope to have them (ups) by wednesday. I'll be at the range this weekend trying them out. Just off hand whats the difference between 3F and 2f powders.? I just bought a jug of 3F so I am just curious. thanks Bob
  5. Little Rooster

    Little Rooster New Member

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    It's the measurment of the size of grains fffg is finer than ffg which burns slightly slower. Some claim, you may find a little bit less felt recoil shooting ffg, but I honestly can't. Not with that small amount of a load.


    When these new guns arrive make sure you clean them really good first, and fire some caps off, before loading.....Have fun with them
  6. Oneida Steve

    Oneida Steve Active Member

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    An alternative to grease over the ball is a pre-lubed patch under the ball, between the powder and the lead. I use Wonder Wads and I recommend them. Less messy than grease or Crisco.

    Also, with a light load, the wad helps take up some of the space in the chamber and makes a tight seal when you seat the ball.
  7. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    Generally speaking FFFg is for guns less than .50 cal, and FFg is for guns over .50 cal....most revolvers COULD be shot with FFg, but generally it's recommended to use FFFg in all of them....but what's funny is .50 cal is right on the cutoff, I know guys who use either, although we use the 3F in my son's .50...mainly because I always have it around for my revolvers and my .45 flintlock, and it works...:p

    FYI, FFFFg is VERY fine, and is mainly used just as priming powder for Flintlock rifles, and Fg is a really course powder than is mainly used in smoothbore muskets, and small cannons.

    Cannon powder is a whole different granulation and has different names....
  8. Little Rooster

    Little Rooster New Member

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    Polish, have you ever shot Skirmish Powder?
  9. BobMcG

    BobMcG Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    You've been given a lot of good advice.

    I use 3f in my .36s and they work fine with the .375 balls. I too use the pre-lubed patches between the powder and ball.

    I'm not telling you to do it but on another side of the coin here.... I've used 20gr of 3f in my brass frame .36 (I have one of each, brass and steel) for hundreds of rounds and have found it no worse for wear from what I can see.
  10. RugerBob

    RugerBob New Member

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    thanks all for the responses. I went to the range sunday and the only regret I had was having only 100 rounds with me. I was suprised at the accuracy of the revolver. I was putting all 6 on the paper at 25 yards. Thats good for me , shooting onehanded.enjoy the day all, Bob
  11. Little Rooster

    Little Rooster New Member

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    Welcome to the Darkside :D
  12. polishshooter

    polishshooter Active Member

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    No. Rooster, I haven't tried Skirmish...I've only used Goex BP since I started shooting black powder ...not for any other reason than every time I buy MORE, that's all that's available...:p But it works fine for me....


    I am having trouble finding Black Powder more and more though, due to the new Federal Restrictions...

    Fewer and fewer shops are carrying it...:cool:

    Now for the revolvers and my son's cap lock I know I could go to substitutes, but I still need the Black powder for my flintlock...
  13. Little Rooster

    Little Rooster New Member

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    It's suppose to be cheaper. I was curious what others thought of it. It is suppose to be a lot cheaper also. However some claim dirtier and slower burn. I use mostly Goex and on occassions I buy some Schutzen <[it's cheaper]. I don't have problem yet finding it, but paying for it is beginning to be a chore. I buy it by the case to save a few bucks. Lead powder and primers have gone thru the roof this past year.
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