Need help with SKS

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by RunningOnMT, Feb 7, 2009.

  1. RunningOnMT

    RunningOnMT New Member

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    I got this Chinese SKS I'm trying to install a Tapco stock, pistol grip and handguard on. Everything on this piece is tight as a drum. I had to use a mallet to tap up the receiver cover release...it should be loose enough to use your finger. Anyway I've just about got it done except for the handguard. If you know the SKS you know the plastic handguard is held onto the gas tube frame by a pin at one end. You have to knock it out to remove the guard. I can't get this pin to budge. Ive dinged it up a bit from trying to punch it out. It almost seems like they mushroomed both ends of the pin so it couldn't be removed. Has anyone else had experience with these that might have a tip for me...as it is I'm stuck and out of ideas. I'd hate to have to try to find a replacement...I think they are matched to the piece on assembly. Will really appreciate any help.
  2. TranterUK

    TranterUK Guest

    If I understand you its the plastic you want to remove from the gas tube. Which would normally stay as one unit?

    If you have a steel pin that refuses to come out it may need drilling. Best left to a gunsmith and best to check you have or can make a replacement.
  3. carver

    carver Moderator

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    I agree. Take it to a gun smith. It won't cost much to get him to set it up for you, and well worth the price of not screwing up your gun.
  4. Longspring

    Longspring New Member

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    No No No ! I happen to be a WECSOG sks master armorer! Now listen closely ! The pin to which you refer is a tapered pin ! It must be driven out one direction ! Use a steel punch , not brass , and give it hell ! This is what your gunsmith is going to do . It will , with a little effort , pop . Your Tapco kit should have 2 aluminum replacement pins included . These go in easily , and file down smooth to fit flush . Replace and you are done . Some of these original pins are visably tapered , some are hammered flush , making the view of the pin obscured . Whack it from both ends if you have to , untill it gives . If you drill it , you will have to replace it wiyh a roll pin and you will not like the finished product . I hope this helps .
  5. carver

    carver Moderator

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    Thanks for the reminder! I knew that, but had forgot!

    Attached Files:

  6. Haligan

    Haligan Well-Known Member

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    Hey Carver,
    Hows the function and reliability on that detached mag? I could never get my chinese or romanian to be reliable with detached mag. Do I have to alter the feed ramp or something?
  7. RunningOnMT

    RunningOnMT New Member

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    Thankyou Longspring, I'll give it another try. I did get it to move a bit before but the strange thing was while it seemed to come through a little on one side it appeared to remain flush on the other...I thought I was crushing the whole thing.

    Now if you can answer a couple more questions for me...This thing is covered with heavy grease (cosmoline?) that I'll need to clean off. My question is do any parts NEED grease or should only oil be used? What parts should get oil and what should remain dry. For example the gas piston...I remember on the M14 it had to be clean and dry.

    The second question is when reinserting the recoil spring...On a video on youtube on disassembly this guy said the kinked end of the spring went in first...but when I took mine apart the straight end of the spring was in first....does it make a difference?

    Carver...that's a nice looking SKS. What kind of magazine is that and have you had any problem finding reliable ones. From reading all the online blogs I got the impression that none of the hi capacity mags were any good.
  8. Longspring

    Longspring New Member

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    All the cosmo should be removed ! The rifles were designed to operate clean of oils . If a rifle has been shot hard , a little oil applied and wiped down will do the trick . Sks rifles employ a free floating firing pin ( except for eary sino- soviets and russians). This pin and the bolt should be free of any residue . Failure to do so will result in an uncontrolled slam fire , as the pins can get locked in the forward position . This can be remedied with a spring loaded pin such as this . http://www.murraysguns.com/sksown.htm
    As for the spring , curly end first and yes it can make a difference .
    As for mags , I prefer the Tapco 20's for synthetics and USA steels . Steel mags can be great if tuned properly . The feed lips are generally the culprit and most folks don't realize that the design of an sks does not allow release the magazines with the bolt closed . This can be a real pain if you try to force them out or in , and has probably ruined more perfectly good mags than any other abuse . The drop free mag modification remedies this . You basically convert your bolt to that of a M or D model . Mags can then be inserted or removed with the bolt in any position . This mod is a must in my opinion , and will not hamper the function or fit of the original fixed box mag . Details can be found here . http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=23876.0
    As for the feed ramp mods , it is usuall only needed when jamming occours when feeding hp's . If you get jamming when shooting other rounds , it is usually a gas system malfunction or mag fit issue. Cleaning will usually remedy this . Just a note ...Wolf Military classic employs a different powder than standard wolf ammo . They were intended for FA weapons . Some folks shoot it fine , others have problems with cycling . Hot shot is questionable as well , known to be dirty and foul gas systems quickly . If you guys have any specifac questions feel free to pm me and I will help where I can .
    As far as the pin goes , Runningonmt , if it is "crushing" it is probably a replacement pin of a softer metal . The old pins were extremely hard material , the newer pins are made from all kinds of softer alloys and aluminum . Keep trying !
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2009
  9. RunningOnMT

    RunningOnMT New Member

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    Many thanks Longspring...you've helped a lot. I still can't get the pin out though. I have about 1/32" protruding through one side but it absolutely will not budge any more. Do you suppose i couldget it through that far if I was punching in the wrong direction? Of course the problem is that there is just not enough material surrounding the pin to anchor the part against something solid when I punch it. But I just got through whacking on it as hard as I can and no luck. Do you know if I would be able to easily obtain another gas tube if I mess this one up somehow? I'm afraid that I might be bending or crushing the tube itself.
  10. Longspring

    Longspring New Member

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    Oh yeah , I'm guessing by your posts that we are dealing with a Norinco correct ? Tapco actually makes one that counts as an additional complience part ($50). They can be had for >20$ . A good vise definatly helps in this job ! It is possible that it is going the wrong direction but if it has gone that far.....I don't know . Run your piston through it to check for warpage . If its tweeked , you might have to get another . Sounds like your almost there , but if you get stuck , and your tube isn't ruined I'd be happy to remove it for you if you are willing to send it off for a few days .
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2009
  11. Longspring

    Longspring New Member

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    Nice para by the way !
  12. RunningOnMT

    RunningOnMT New Member

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    Well i finally got it out but man was it a chore. This is definately a two man operation....because of the shape there is no way to clamp the piece tight enough to hammer the pin out. Longspring if you hadnt assured me that I was going in the right direction I would have given up....appreciate your help. I did scratch some of the bluing off the ferrule but I see you can also buy those seperately for cheap. Not sure whether I bent it or not. If I insert the piston in as far as it will go it seems to stick when it bottoms out, but the rod will come through the end by a good inch before that happens. Anyway, thanks again.
  13. Longspring

    Longspring New Member

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    You should be fine ! Congrats ! Sounds like the normal expected travel . Now if you haven't put her all the way together , polish up the piston if you can . They collect alot of fouling/ carbon . The clean piston should sparkle . Happy shooting RunningOnMT ! Here is a shot of one of my " Bubbas" .
    [​IMG]
  14. ARB

    ARB New Member

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    RunningonMT,

    I have had the exact same problem. I banged on that pin all day!!! The only resort I found was to replace the whole part. It wasn't too expensive considering it got my wife to stop laughing at my gunsmithing skills.
  15. poobear

    poobear New Member

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    If you need to replace the pins they are available at www.buymilsurp.com. They are only like $5.00 for 2 pins.
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