Parkerizing Problems

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by CountryGunsmith, Feb 24, 2003.

  1. CountryGunsmith

    CountryGunsmith New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
    Messages:
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    Location:
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    mthunter
    Member
    Posts: 7
    (5/29/02 5:40:01 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del All 1911 slide redue
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    I recently bead blasted, and parkerized my Norinco 1911 slide, and frame. The frame turned out wonderful, but the slide did not. When I went to rinse and wipe, half of the finish came off? The texture of the slide feels real ruff like 100 grit sandpaper. Did I totally mess this up, and need to buy a new one? Also, has anyone tried these three products from Brownells? If so, how are they?
    1)AEROSOL BAKING LACQUER 2)GUN-KOTE™ OVEN CURE, GUN FINISH 3)TEFLON®/MOLY OVEN CURE, GUN FINISH


    Zigzag2
    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 3469
    (5/29/02 6:23:46 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: 1911 slide redue
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    MT, please do be patient. Antiquedr, is well versed in redos.
    He's done some really nice stuff. Feel free to contact him personally at antiquedr@apaxenterprises.com


    Quote:
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    don't sweat the small stuff <author unknown>
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    AntiqueDr
    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 2650
    (5/29/02 7:43:08 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del
    ezSupporter
    Re: 1911 slide redue
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    How did you go about parkerizing the slide?
    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    www.apaxenterprises.com
    Master Dealer for Kimber, Wilson Combat and Dan Wesson

    mthunter
    Member
    Posts: 8
    (5/30/02 6:40:19 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del slide redue
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    I first beadblasted the slide then I used a parkerizing kit from Shooters Solutions.

    AntiqueDr
    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 2662
    (5/30/02 10:25:39 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del
    ezSupporter
    Re: slide redue
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    Well, I'm not familiar with their kits but the only reason for that type of finish to "wipe off" (provided correct temperatures, mixture and dip time) is improperly cleaned parts and/or contaminated solution. The rough feeling of the slide is no doubt from acid etching.

    If the slide will still fit the frame and will still lock up the barrel lugs and bushing adequately, it can probably still be used.


    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    www.apaxenterprises.com
    Master Dealer for Kimber, Wilson Combat and Dan Wesson

    mthunter
    Member
    Posts: 9
    (5/30/02 11:35:59 pm)
    Reply | Edit | Del so, now what?
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    Now that I think about it, both times that I've done the slide it was the second batch for the solution. Could this have contaminated it? The temp. was right for this kit. Can the acid etching be removed, and the slide redone again? If so, how is the best way to remove the acid etching? How did the slide become acid etched?

    AntiqueDr
    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 2667
    (5/31/02 12:33:55 am)
    Reply | Edit | Del
    ezSupporter
    Re: so, now what?
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    It absolutely could have contaminated the solution. Also, it is important to replace the water that is lost during the first batch otherwise the concentration is too strong. This could be the cause of the acid etching. It could also be from not following the directions on the neutralizer.

    It really cant be removed without removing quite a bit of metal. You might be able to buff it out to a degree then even it out with either a wire wheel or by bead blasting. Hard to tell without seeing it.


    We Buy Guns! 1 - 100, Antique or Modern!
    www.apaxenterprises.com
    Master Dealer for Kimber, Wilson Combat and Dan Wesson

    Xracer
    *TFF Senior Staff*
    Posts: 2212
    (5/31/02 8:04:48 am)
    Reply | Edit | Del Re: so, now what?
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    Is this a "wipe-on" or an immersion process?

    If you didn't immerse the slide, the rails and locking lugs should still be good. If you did, your slide is an expensive paperweight.
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