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Prep for the week

5K views 32 replies 10 participants last post by  soundguy 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

I would like to see what/how other people are prepping for an emergency situation to give myself and others ideas for better preps. I don't want to know what scenario you are prepping for just your prep you did for the week. It can be as small as changed the oil in my BOV or as big as bought a Barrett .50 Cal.


This week I

Bought a MSR Whisperlite International backpacking stove for my BOB, I had a single burner Coleman Dual Fuel Stove but it was very heavy, hard to store fuel, and was limited to White gas or Unleaded gas. The Whisperlite will burn White gas, Unleaded gas, or Kerosine.

Bought 1 20oz fuel bottle for the stove & filled it with White gas.

Bought another 1 Gal. can of White gas

Made some 8 hour candles out of crayons and kite string.

Picked up 2-5 Gal. gas cans from a neighbor's garage sale for $3.00 Ea, filled them up, and added sta-bol to them.

Bought 2 Quart jugs of lamp oil

Changed the oil in the big generator and ran it for a few hours on a load.
 
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#2 ·
I own and use the MSR whisperlite stove, I lived off of it for a few months and have used (2) of them for most of my life for backpacking and camping/hunting. Very reliable and as long as you get the international version like you did with the extra nozzles, it will burn ANY fuel oil out there. Very good choice. They're only about $10 more for the international vs. standard also.

Bought more SD ammo for my primary side arm this week is about it... 250 more rounds of Fiocchi JHP's for my Glock .40
 
#4 ·
If I had a BOB, it would not have a stove of any kind in it. Weight is very important for a BOB, you have to carry it! A Bic lighter will start many fires, or simple flint, and steel. Leaves more weight for food, and water.
 
#5 ·
Thanks AA, I have only used the Whipserlite a few times but I really like it. ALOT quieter then my dads old MSR Dragonfly. Carver that is a good point, but depending on the scenario is for why you are bugging out you may not want people to know where you are. If you make a fire, you are basically signaling everyone to where you are. The stove and 1 single 20oz gas bottle weight as much as a G23 I would say. I also have 1 Magnesium Flint stick, waterproof matches, wet fire starter bricks, and a windproof lighter if I need to make a fire.
 
#7 ·
I bought a tent a few years back that come with chairs sleeping bags,and a single burner that ran off small bottles of gas.That wouldnt be very much extra weight .There will be times you cant build a fire.Like when your not wanting to attract attention to your camp because of safety concerns.The stove would come in handy for boiling water if you had to.
 
#8 ·
What I notice about preparing.You never can think of everything.Everybody that lists there prepps has one more thing someone else didnt thing about.Everybody usually makes good points and you never stop learning.I like these kind of discussions.
 
#9 ·
Thanks AA, I have only used the Whipserlite a few times but I really like it. ALOT quieter then my dads old MSR Dragonfly. Carver that is a good point, but depending on the scenario is for why you are bugging out you may not want people to know where you are. If you make a fire, you are basically signaling everyone to where you are. The stove and 1 single 20oz gas bottle weight as much as a G23 I would say. I also have 1 Magnesium Flint stick, waterproof matches, wet fire starter bricks, and a windproof lighter if I need to make a fire.
Yeah, that stove would be nice to have, but you can build a fire for cooking that will produce almost no smoke! Use any dead hard wood, choose the small sucker branches that are dry. A fire for cooking needs to be no larger than what you could put in your hat. A fire for warmth has to be some larger, but if you use a back log, or a large rock to reflect the heat, that fire can be small also. The use of dead hard woods will keep the smoke down, and if you build your fire under low hanging branches they will dissipate what little smoke you produce.
 
#10 ·
a groundhog hole fire is extremely effective and produces very little smoke if any and no visible flames as it's below ground, used it in survival training.

Dig about an 8" hole roughly 12-18" straight down, then tunnel in a second hole about 18" away at roughly a 45' angle until you hit the bottom of the main (first) hole you dug. Build the fire in the main hole, the air vent you dug in will provide the draft/oxygen needed to fuel your fire.

the whisperlite is a backpacking stove, extremely light; it weights about the same as a loaded pistol magazine; the only weight is the fuel really.
 
#11 ·
a groundhog hole fire is extremely effective and produces very little smoke if any and no visible flames as it's below ground, used it in survival training.

Dig about an 8" hole roughly 12-18" straight down, then tunnel in a second hole about 18" away at roughly a 45' angle until you hit the bottom of the main (first) hole you dug. Build the fire in the main hole, the air vent you dug in will provide the draft/oxygen needed to fuel your fire.

the whisperlite is a backpacking stove, extremely light; it weights about the same as a loaded pistol magazine; the only weight is the fuel really.
That trick was originated by Native Americans, and it does work well.
 
#12 ·
This week I...

-Bought 2 cases of Ramen Noodles Shrimp Flavor to put up
-Bought 2 Packs of 525 Count 22LR
-Went to the gun show and picked up a shoulder holster for my wife & a pistol grip for my Maverick 88
-Went to a Estate Sale and picked up a 12 pack of ball jelly jars, and a huge 3 wick candle for $1.00 each, cut the candle into smaller chunks and made 12 candles out of 3/4 of it. Not bad for $2.00 and a little elbow grease.
 
#15 ·
I am picking out an area for the sea container I am getting very soon

Im trying to decide if I should just set it on a gravel pad or set up a series of rail road ties to set it up off of the ground a bit
Dig a hole, and bury it!
 
#17 ·
If you bury it, you will need to insulate and vent, at least by convection,
to keep control of moisture/condensation [if you keep anything in it
that moisture will damage].
Same on the above ground method, to a degree.
If you set it on a gravel bed you only have about 4" from ground to floor,
and if you raise it, make sure you have air flow underneath.
 
#23 ·
and then you have ground contact and moisture issues to deal with though...
if you do a gravel pad.. don't do fines.. do a raised be of something like reclaimed concrete or railroad ballas that is coarse.. like 57 or better so there is positive drainage..
 
#24 ·
part of me says to just set it right on a level gravel pad so that I won't have to deal with snakes and other critters setting up house underneath it if I set it up on blocks
I rather deal with snakes and critters than have my long term or even short term storage gear in bad condition from enviroment.

Look up liquid fence, its a company up the road from me, the make sprays that will keep just about any critter away, locals use it for driving deer and rodent control.

But in the passed week I've picked up 1600 CCI Mini Mags, a case of 12ga shells, 420 rounds of Lake City 5.56, chamber brush for the AR, and a few other odds and ends.
 
#25 ·
part of me says to just set it right on a level gravel pad so that I won't have to deal with snakes and other critters setting up house underneath it if I set it up on blocks
You still have a void underneath it if you set it on the ground,
at least 4" between the floor and ground.
You can mound up gravel around it to lessen the chance, but only
on three sides, or you will not get the doors open.
The doors...another issue....many containers have incredibly
stiff and hard to open doors.....by raising it up some, you make
it easier to get to, to open and close them.
The container is solid, and will not require any elaborate foundation.
Look on the bottom, see which direction the floor rails run,
set some railroad ties perpendicular, making sure they don't
protrude from underneath, and run some hardware cloth around the
bottom.
 
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