Prep for the week

Discussion in 'Self Defense Tactics & Weapons' started by streetbob, Sep 25, 2012.

  1. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    derust and then paint it good.. set some piers for it.. even if single (solid) block pillars..
  2. dbcooper

    dbcooper Well-Known Member

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    part of me says to just set it right on a level gravel pad so that I won't have to deal with snakes and other critters setting up house underneath it if I set it up on blocks
  3. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    and then you have ground contact and moisture issues to deal with though...
    if you do a gravel pad.. don't do fines.. do a raised be of something like reclaimed concrete or railroad ballas that is coarse.. like 57 or better so there is positive drainage..
  4. spuznick242

    spuznick242 New Member

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    I rather deal with snakes and critters than have my long term or even short term storage gear in bad condition from enviroment.

    Look up liquid fence, its a company up the road from me, the make sprays that will keep just about any critter away, locals use it for driving deer and rodent control.

    But in the passed week I've picked up 1600 CCI Mini Mags, a case of 12ga shells, 420 rounds of Lake City 5.56, chamber brush for the AR, and a few other odds and ends.
  5. ozo

    ozo Well-Known Member

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    You still have a void underneath it if you set it on the ground,
    at least 4" between the floor and ground.
    You can mound up gravel around it to lessen the chance, but only
    on three sides, or you will not get the doors open.
    The doors...another issue....many containers have incredibly
    stiff and hard to open doors.....by raising it up some, you make
    it easier to get to, to open and close them.
    The container is solid, and will not require any elaborate foundation.
    Look on the bottom, see which direction the floor rails run,
    set some railroad ties perpendicular, making sure they don't
    protrude from underneath, and run some hardware cloth around the
    bottom.
  6. ozo

    ozo Well-Known Member

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    Once you view the bottom structure, you may cancel
    any idea to use blocks [8x8x16].
  7. dbcooper

    dbcooper Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking rail road ties or large landscape timbers

    I have a friend also with a sawmill and I have some cedar trunks we can saw into just about any size

    my first one is going to be a 20ft size and I see where many people set them up on supports on the ends only since they are designed with the strength in the corners


    also, not to hijack this thread, I might start a different thread to continue discussing containers.
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2012
  8. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    on our construction jobsite we use storage containers all the time.. we set tehm on concrete pillow blocks ( not cinder blocks ).

    what problems are you having with blocks?
  9. streetbob

    streetbob Active Member

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    This week I picked up...

    -M-1942 Military Mess Kit
    -Extra 20oz MSR Fuel Bottle
    -100pk 12GA 2 3/4" 7 1/2 Bird Shot
    -15pk 12GA 2 3/4" Slug
    -10pk 12GA 3" 00Buck
    -2 boxes of 525 22LR
    -Made 8 8oz Jelly Jar Candles
    -1 Gal. Coleman Camp Fuel
    -4 Military P-51 Can Openers
  10. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    would love to see the candles / how you made them?

    thanks
  11. streetbob

    streetbob Active Member

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    Sound guy, it is very easy. To make the wicks you need is cotton twine, water, table salt, and borax laundry booster. You add 1 cup of water, 1 tbsp of salt, and 2 tbsp of borax into a pot. Warm the mix up until the salt and borax has compleatly dissolved take a few pieces of the cotton twine cut into 12" pieces and put them in the mix, let them soak for 20 minutes in the solution and hang them up to dry for 5 days. After they dry get some candle holders and a old candle or old crayons put a pot on the stove with water added to it and another pot on top for the wax. Melt the wax in the top pot, when the wax is ready dunk the wicks into the wax 2 to 3 times letting it hardening in between dunks. I tie wooden kabob sticks to the wicks before dunking them to keep them straight in the jars and a small nut to keep them down in the wax. When ready pour the melted wax into the jar and add the wick into the middle. Let them cool for 16 hours and repour wax into jars for a second time because the center of the candle will sink when it cools, after they cool for 6 to 8 hours they are ready to go.
  12. streetbob

    streetbob Active Member

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    Here are a few candles I recently done.

    Attached Files:

  13. soundguy

    soundguy Well-Known Member

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    wow, those look great.

    question.. what does the borax and the salt do to the wick, stiffen it?

    awesome pics!

    and plus.. you could stick a matchbook on top of it then put a lid on, and you'd have a watertight candle with way to light it up.

    i like the double boiler setup

    cool ideas
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