I'm new to cap and ball revolvers and I was just wondering if I need to use a wad or lube when I shoot my gun. I know you're supposed to use them to prevent chain fire, but if the ball is slightly oversize and shaves a ring of lead when it's loaded, shouldn't that seal the chamber good enough to keep sparks from getting in? I only ask because I don't have wads right now and I'd like to take a few shots. I do plan on making some wads once I get some felt, but do I have to lube the wads or can I just use dry ones?
I recommend that you buy a can of Crisco shortening (if they still sell the stuff). After you press the ball into the chamber, just put a finger full of Crisco on top of the ball to prevent the chain fire. It costs a whole lot less than the wads and "name brand" lube and does the same thing. I never used any kind of wads when I shot my BP revolver.
Wads and lube. I used those pre-packaged felt wads. Maybe I was over-doing it, but I also used lube to seal off the chambers. You don't NEED those wads, but you can and I did.
As far as lube goes, I highly recommend it. You will find that when shooting a black powder six-shooter, the fired black powder propellant ends up EVERYWHERE. It will cause you revolver to bind-up. Lube - all from plain old Crisco to the fancy lubes for blackpowder that you can buy - help to keep that black powder residue soft on the cylinder pin and all of the working parts while you shoot.
I never had a 'chain fire', but again I always used lube to seal the chambers. From what I hear, it's not an experiance you will want to seek out.
George beat me to the post. They still sell Crisco, and it's still cheap. My wife uses it all the time in baking.
I always use them. A pack of 100 is not much $ and I get one when I get a box of 100 balls.
So they go hand in hand for me.
I never use any cooking products out there tho'. But I suppose then your shooting would smell like fried chicken.
dc
I also have used nothing but Crisco. Way back when Head and Shoulders Shampoo came in a plastic tube I saved a couple when empty, cleaned them out, melted some Crisco, put the shampoo tube in some water so it wouldn't be damaged by the hot oil and poured the now liquid Crisco into the tube. The Crisco when cool went back to it's normal consistency and the tubes went into the black powder kit.
Wads are easier and less messy but Crisco will work fine. You do not need to fill the void between ball and chamber mouth, just a little around the edge of the balls is all you need. Any more just gets blasted all over the gun.
Never witnessed a problem but a neighboring fire chief told me of his experience when he and his son went out to shoot the son's newly purchased 1851 Navy replica. They didn't know about using grease or wads and loaded the pistol with out either. First shot and three cylinders ignited sending one down the barrel and one down each side. No one was hurt but they were not interested in doing it again. I don't know the condition of the caps.
The exact same thing happened to me the first time I fired the one I had. Someone told me about using Crisco and it never happened again.
I saw one of the slickgun ads the other day where Cabela's was selling a Pietta .44 cap and ball revolver for $150 shipped. I thought about buying one for a little while, but then remembered the PITA cleaning I had to do with the last one.
Thanks for the help everybody. I'll just use some crisco until I can get some wads made. Do the wads need to be lubed or can they be dry? And if I make some paper cartridges do I still need a wad or lube?
Wads work better lubed, black powder fouls your gun and that lube helps keep it soft, if you don't lube the wad then you still need to lube the mouth of the cylinder, not so much to prevent the chain fire as the wad seals the chamber, but to keep the bore lubed.
Lubing your own isn't too hard just set them in a shallow pan and pour melted Crisco or your lube of choice over them and shake them around a bit to make sure they are all coated evenly and then set them on a paper towel to cool.
I haven't ever made paper cartridges but I'd lube after loading them if I did.
Wads work better lubed, black powder fouls your gun and that lube helps keep it soft, if you don't lube the wad then you still need to lube the mouth of the cylinder, not so much to prevent the chain fire as the wad seals the chamber, but to keep the bore lubed.
Lubing your own isn't too hard just set them in a shallow pan and pour melted Crisco or your lube of choice over them and shake them around a bit to make sure they are all coated evenly and then set them on a paper towel to cool.
I haven't ever made paper cartridges but I'd lube after loading them if I did.
i use bore butter for my bp rifles. I use an old cotton tshirt for patches and shoot round lead balls. don't care for the plastic sabot.. seems harder to clean.
everyone remember when toothpaste tubes were metal?
I also gave up BP revolvers because they ARE a PITA to clean. Thgis is one time me and Hawg are on opposite sides of the fence. Fowling gets into every nook and cranny, and the cleaning with hot, soapy water - followed by a complete drying, them oiling every metal atom you can reach or think of IS a PITA.
Please post if you decide to make paper cartridges! I made those for my Civil War replica Springfield and Remington .58s. That was a long and slow process, but it was kind of fun and a unique thing to do. I've got a civil war cartridge box loaded with 40 of those. Thought about making those for a .44 Remington clone, but never did. I've heard that you can nitrate cigarette papers for pistol cartridges. You'd have to look it up, but I think they used conical balls for revolvers.
I'm pretty sure that the original shooters of those things didn't use a lube to prevent chain fires, but those guys had cojones that you'd need a shopping basket to carry around.
I also gave up BP revolvers because they ARE a PITA to clean. Thgis is one time me and Hawg are on opposite sides of the fence. Fowling gets into every nook and cranny, and the cleaning with hot, soapy water - followed by a complete drying, them oiling every metal atom you can reach or think of IS a PITA.
Y'all make it harder than need be. I remove the grips and dump all the metal parts in a sink full of hot soapy water. Swish the action around real good and run a wet bore mop down the bore a couple of times. Shake it out and set it aside to drain while doing the rest. Bore mop the chambers while holding the cylinder under water and let it drain. Spray the action liberally with WD-40 to displace remaining water and again with Remoil. Same with cylinder except for the Remoil. Run an oiled mop down the bore and chambers with whatever vegetable based oil you prefer and reassemble. Wipe the exterior down with whatever oil you prefer. I completely tear mine down maybe once a year but its not necessary. I don't even tear my Rossi 92 down to clean but its a 44-40 so I can leave a fired case in the chamber to catch the crud. You can't do that with a straight walled case. Now my 63 Sharp's is a different story. That booger is a PITA.
I clean mine the same way Hawg, but I usually put them in a warm oven on a cookie sheet for a few minutes to dry them after they come out of the sink before oiling and re assembling.
Bless you guys with the patience to give proper care in meticulous cleaning of those BP revolvers. I also used WD40 to displace water and moisture when I cleaned those things. Of course, back then, I used WD40 for cleaning and oiling every firearm that I shot. As soon as I found a supply of LSA I went with that instead. I know there are better lubricants and preservatives on the market, but it's what I use.
You guys ever shoot those BP revolvers on a really hot day? I used to do that - and looked like a West Virginia Coal Miner afterwards. They are fun to use, but I still think they are a PITA to clean afterwards. The only BP I still actively shoot is from my .45-70 Trapdoor Carbine, and that is once in a "Blue Moon". That one is bad enough because it is only one barrel and receiver to clean. I made some original spec .45 Colt BP loads, and did that ONCE - just to experiance what they were like. Never again. Still a PITA to clean, and the BP gummed up the action the same as it did my 1858 Remington replica. Then there was the brass cases to clean, as well.
Bless you guys with the patience to give proper care in meticulous cleaning of those BP revolvers. I also used WD40 to displace water and moisture when I cleaned those things. Of course, back then, I used WD40 for cleaning and oiling every firearm that I shot. As soon as I found a supply of LSA I went with that instead. I know there are better lubricants and preservatives on the market, but it's what I use.
You guys ever shoot those BP revolvers on a really hot day? I used to do that - and looked like a West Virginia Coal Miner afterwards. They are fun to use, but I still think they are a PITA to clean afterwards. The only BP I still actively shoot is from my .45-70 Trapdoor Carbine, and that is once in a "Blue Moon". That one is bad enough because it is only one barrel and receiver to clean. I made some original spec .45 Colt BP loads, and did that ONCE - just to experiance what they were like. Never again. Still a PITA to clean, and the BP gummed up the action the same as it did my 1858 Remington replica. Then there was the brass cases to clean, as well.
I guess one man's PITA is another mans enjoyable pastime, I like shooting them and I don't mind cleaning them, it's just part of the fun of owning them.
now that I've had my revolvers a bit, and had a heckuvalot of fun shooting them, I've got a question or two.
I had picked up a cheap starter kit to get a flask, it also came with some pre lubed wads. I also have bore butter from my Bp rifle. I've shot it both with wads or grease, and wads and grease. I noticed my starter pack also came with some sort of pre stamped grease?/wax? Wads. They are softer than wax but thicker than bore butter. They look lil a felt wad. I had initial thought they were but then set them aside. Are they just a lube substitute to go over the ball or do the serve any other purpose. The shop I go to for powder, balls and caps has wads but not the way pellets, and the baggy un the kit was not marked with a brand name, etc ?? Something I need, or bire butter and Crisco fine ( has been so far I guess)
I've never tried (or heard of) wonder seals so I have no idea how well they work or if they go over the ball or under it. I'll have to go check if they have them in stock and take a look see tomorrow.
I used to just make my own but I've gotten a bit lazy in my old age so these days I just walk across the railroad tracks from the shop to the store and grab the premade ones, getting the employee discount doesn't hurt either.
I don't like pure Crisco or Bore Butter because they get too runny to use in summer heat. They're fine for cooler weather tho. I use wads lubed with olive oil but I have used a beeswax/Crisco mix for over ball lube that's stiff enough for summer use.
At one time I used Mink Oil Paste as a BP lube - works well, doesn't melt in heat, smells good. Contains lanolin so it's good for your hands too. Having trouble finding it lately, so am using TC Bore Butter.
I've never used lube over the ball if using a lubed wad and I've never had a chain fire. If the fouling is hard and dry lube over the ball might help with the fouling, but I've never had that issue either. BTW, I've never used pyrodex pellets in anything, loose powder is much less expensive and easier to tailor the load for the best accuracy.
Ok thanks, For my first time shooting black powder I was trying to make as simple as possible and I think an instruction video gave me the convenient idea. I'll see how these go and maybe go the powder route on the next one and stock up since it's cheaper.
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