I have never reloaded any Armscor brass, that I know of. I have used Aquila brass, which I kind of consider inferior, without any problem. I wouldn't think that Armscor would offer more problems or trouble than any other brand.
I've never loaded Amscor brass that I know of but I hear a lot of people saying one brand or the other of brass is bad for some reason. I've never had a problem with any brand. Some brands are heaver and have thicker walls than others, but if you sort by head stamp that is a non-issue. I've never seen one particular head stamp that was more prone to splits in the neck or body or head separation than any other brand.
I've read that some people get fewer reloads with one particular brand, but again I've haven't seen that. Maybe if I shot 10 reloads of 10 different head stamps I might see a problem.
Thank you for your feedback. That's the kind of information I'm looking for. I have zero experience with Armscor. I don't want to buy any of this ammo if the brass isn't good enough to be a reliable reload. I've also heard of some brass prone to cracking and some that are too thick.
I'm not sure I've ever heard of 'brass being too thick'. Especially for the .30 Carbine, as the case is not very long, the exterior has to be correct to chamber, and the brass has to hold a .308 diameter bullet, so I can't see how it could be 'too thick'.
The only brass I've ever had problems with was CAVIM brass in 7.62X51 NATO. The trouble with it wasn't that it was too thick - it was REALLY hard. I could feel the hardness when I sized and trimmed the cases. This was the only brass that ever failed to eject in my M1A. All of my loads are loaded to either exact M-80 (147 grain FMJ) specs, or loaded to M-118 Match specs with either the 168 grain Sierra Match bullets or the 173 grain FMJ Special Match loads.
From many thousands of loads, those CAVIM cases were the only ones to give the slightest hint of a problem. I had several fail to eject at all - they were stuck in the chamber. I fired less than 20 of these, took them home, pulled them down and tossed the brass. I only load LC standard cases for my M-80 loads and LC Match cases for my match grade loads.
Doubt if you will have a problem. I've reloaded Armscor brass in 9mm and .380, and it seemed just fine.
Assuming that you are new to reloading .30 Carbine (you may not be), be careful with the case lengths. This round headspaces on the case mouth, and you don't want to get crazy in trimming. A taper crimp is better with this one than a roll crimp. I've found IMR-4227 a good powder choice.
You have to trim-to-length on the brass cases. Most of the time you can get by without trimming, but that's not a good idea to just assume that your cases are within tolerance. You should measure every case after sizing them, and make sure the cases are not too long. Lee makes a good, easy and cheap case length trimmer. The shell holder, trimmer rod and the cutter shouldn't run much more than $10 or $15. Then you'll want to chamfer the burr off of the case mouth with a chamfering tool.
Like I said, the case headspaces on the case mouth and so case length is especially critical for the .30 Carbine. Just for what it's worth, if it were me I'd stick with IMR-4227 and stay away from the newer gee-whiz powders. Friend of mine also reloaded .30 Carbine, and swears by Accurate Arms powder. He 'insisted' that I try one of his reloads, and I ended up replacing parts on my poor old carbine as a result. But that's your call.
I have reloaded every kind of brass I could find (boxer that is). Only one cartridge brass I've heard/read about as universally being junk, is Amerc. brass. I've read on several forums that this brass is at best good for one or two reloadings before it splits, and often off-set flash holes and irregular primer pockets.
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