I was lookin through older editions of hornadys reloading manuals yesterday.
Powder that isn't listed in new manuals is listed in old. Maybe check out older editions at your LGS or a buddy. It might be listed and get you in the ball park.
Hi Ronnie;
Welcome to the forum. You have come to the right place to ask questions. We probably have collectively a couple of centuries' reloading experience represented here. We like to help whatever way we can.
What caliber, bullet weight are you loading?
As said, you should check your reloading manual. Check with the powder company reloading information website; check with the bullet manufacturer reloading website.
Ronnie - I'm thinking those are fairly newer powders for shotguns, as compared to Herco, Red Dot, Unique, Blue Dot, etc. You can try the manufacturer, but I'm doubting if you will have any luck. Good for you if you do.
Even though finding powder these days is hard to do, if you can't find a certified laboritory tested receipe, save that powder for your shotshells.
Ronnie - I'm thinking those are fairly newer powders for shotguns, as compared to Herco, Red Dot, Unique, Blue Dot, etc. You can try the manufacturer, but I'm doubting if you will have any luck. Good for you if you do.
Even though finding powder these days is hard to do, if you can't find a certified laboritory tested receipe, save that powder for your shotshells.
The Hodgdon online data center would have the answers you're looking for since the Winchester powders are distributed by Hodgdon (and some of them are actually one and the same in different labels). http://www.hodgdonreloading.com
I don't see any pistol data listed for those two powders in the cartridges I normally load. Maybe try sending them an email to see if they have any recommendations or data that's not in the database. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/contact
If you see a max grain but no starting grain, use 10% below max as the starting grain. The Hodgdon annual manual p72 for reference on start grain. It's probably on the site as well but I didn't find it.
What caliber are you talking about? Why do you need to retumble them?
If they're pistol brass, just run them through the sizing die with no decapping pin. If rifle, lube them and run them through the sizing die without the decapping pin and just wipe them off when you're done.
I agree with howln' if you have the type of die that you can remove the decapping pin, then do it that way. If you cannot remove the pin then catch the primers as you gently deprime them and then seat them again later. If you are going to have to tumble them (?) again then this way might be better.
Just pull the decapping pin out of the stem and lube and resize. You may not need to trim them. But like gdmoody said, you can deprime them and reuse the same primers. Just go gently until it pops out.
If you resize them, first check the length before you start trimming again. If you have just recently trimmed, you might get away without having to do it again.
If you are going to tumble them again just to get the resizing lube off ot them then take a rag and just wipe them off, I am sure that is what howln was referring to.
Federal brand primers are very sensitive according to Lee 2nd edition p33, 61, and 64 in comparison to other brands. I personally don't know if this is Lee bias or fact. Either way, it's in the manual.
After I swaged 223 primer pockets to remove the crimp, I found some of the new primers I was inserting gave me a slight thump sensation in the press handle (something I had not felt before). I thought back to the Lee comment above. While I wasn't using them, I felt better knowing I wasn't using them!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
The Firearms Forum
2.2M posts
71K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to all firearm owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about optics, hunting, gunsmithing, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!