Need help removing some NASTY copper fouling without damaging the bore.
Been brewing up a new pet load for my Ruger 77 .25-06. It's old favorite was the original Barnes 100gr flat-base X-bullet but that's no longer available so I'm trying out the new TSX boat-tail 100gr. (Besides the point, but this rifle has never liked any boat-tail bullets so I'm still working up a new load).
Anyway, I went through about a 30-round session at the range with mostly Barnes but also a couple other assorted bullets/charges and noticed that the groups really went to pot at the 25 round point.
Post-session cleanup, I've got a really thick copper fouling in the bore. Worse than I've ever had from the original Barnes X. Probably from a couple three-round groups that were borderline on the hot side...no high-pressure signs, but good stout loads.
My usual method of patches and Sweet's 7.62 isn't cutting this stuff loose. I've made a few passes down the boore with a brush after doing a 5-minute soak in Sweet's, but I'm still not cutting it loose. How long dare I leave Sweet's in the bore...it's a good strong ammonia cleaner and I don't want to attack the steel by leaving it too long.
Any suggestions besides keep repeating the soak/scrub process?
BTW, the bore in this rifle is fairly well polished...I used to be able do a good 50-round session with the old Barnes bullets before cleaning with minimal copper fouling.
Need help removing some NASTY copper fouling without damaging the bore.
Been brewing up a new pet load for my Ruger 77 .25-06. It's old favorite was the original Barnes 100gr flat-base X-bullet but that's no longer available so I'm trying out the new TSX boat-tail 100gr. (Besides the point, but this rifle has never liked any boat-tail bullets so I'm still working up a new load).
Anyway, I went through about a 30-round session at the range with mostly Barnes but also a couple other assorted bullets/charges and noticed that the groups really went to pot at the 25 round point.
Post-session cleanup, I've got a really thick copper fouling in the bore. Worse than I've ever had from the original Barnes X. Probably from a couple three-round groups that were borderline on the hot side...no high-pressure signs, but good stout loads.
My usual method of patches and Sweet's 7.62 isn't cutting this stuff loose. I've made a few passes down the boore with a brush after doing a 5-minute soak in Sweet's, but I'm still not cutting it loose. How long dare I leave Sweet's in the bore...it's a good strong ammonia cleaner and I don't want to attack the steel by leaving it too long.
Any suggestions besides keep repeating the soak/scrub process?
BTW, the bore in this rifle is fairly well polished...I used to be able do a good 50-round session with the old Barnes bullets before cleaning with minimal copper fouling.
Need help removing some NASTY copper fouling without damaging the bore.
Been brewing up a new pet load for my Ruger 77 .25-06. It's old favorite was the original Barnes 100gr flat-base X-bullet but that's no longer available so I'm trying out the new TSX boat-tail 100gr. (Besides the point, but this rifle has never liked any boat-tail bullets so I'm still working up a new load).
Anyway, I went through about a 30-round session at the range with mostly Barnes but also a couple other assorted bullets/charges and noticed that the groups really went to pot at the 25 round point.
Post-session cleanup, I've got a really thick copper fouling in the bore. Worse than I've ever had from the original Barnes X. Probably from a couple three-round groups that were borderline on the hot side...no high-pressure signs, but good stout loads.
My usual method of patches and Sweet's 7.62 isn't cutting this stuff loose. I've made a few passes down the boore with a brush after doing a 5-minute soak in Sweet's, but I'm still not cutting it loose. How long dare I leave Sweet's in the bore...it's a good strong ammonia cleaner and I don't want to attack the steel by leaving it too long.
Any suggestions besides keep repeating the soak/scrub process?
BTW, the bore in this rifle is fairly well polished...I used to be able do a good 50-round session with the old Barnes bullets before cleaning with minimal copper fouling.
"Butch's Bore Shine, and MC-7, showed any ability to remove cooper fouling but none of them worked at the level of the ammonia based "copper solvent" solutions, 10% ammonia, or KG12. No doubt that regular use would help to minimize copper foulingI believe the results speak for themselves. The following points were noted. Of common regularly available bore cleaners that I tested only Accubore, Barnes CR-10, build up".
Did another soak/scrub session on it after work this morning with Sweet's and patches. Still lifting copper out of the bore so I am making progress.
I've got a bottle of CR-10 back at the farm...will grab that the next time I get back there and give it a try too. From my past experience it's about the same strength as Sweet's, but being more of a liquid than a "syrup" I think it might work better to plug the bore and fill with that for a good soaking.
I've looked at those Outers Foul Out systems before, but have never needed one (til now maybe? ).
The Sweet's is about as good as it gets, and in a chrome molly barrel I have left for 15 to 20 minutes. I do make sure to use somthing right behind it to help flushit out between applications. Usually Kroil, but I think other products will do tis also. Just be surre to use soem oil at the end to prtect the bare metal the Sweet's will uncover. Do you suppose the X- bullets has changed their alloy? I have not had this problem with their older bullets. The Outer foul out systems do work, I used a friends once on a cooped up bore and it did the trick. Best regards Kirk
try M-pro 7 copper remover, liberally soak a patch and let it work for at least 15 minutes. I did a .17 rem for a customer, he brought me the rifle saying he thought it was shot out, the rifling was shallow and looked worn out. upon inspection, i found enough copper in the bore to wire my christmas lights. M-pro 7 took it right out, i let the copper remover work for about 2 days, brushing, patching, and reapplying about twice a day, most of the initial fouling came out in long corkscrew pieces. It was a long process but required very little elbow grease and now the rifle and its owner are happily exploding bunnies again...
I've been shooting Barnes bullets for years and have never had a fouling problem. You need to call Barnes and find out what's going on - they are very helpful on the phone. They also have a great cleaner that will dissolve copper fast.
Well, I'm still working the copper out of the .25-06. It's still coming clean slowly but I'll have to set it aside til deer season is over with.
CR-10 and Sweet's are working about the same...both of em are dissolving the fouling.
I'm starting to theorize that in addition to those few near-max test loads it might be the boat-tail design caused increased fouling. I know bevel-base lead will foul more than flat-base will, but I don't know if that logic follows with jacketed bullets. I honestly don't remember how the pre-TSX boat-tail 100grs fouled in this rifle, but I know that it hasn't liked to group well with any boat-tail designs that I've tried (from any maker).
I've also been trying current production TSX flat-base 130s in my 6.5x55 CZ550 and it's not fouling as bad as the .25-06 is with these boat-tails...the CZ is still fouling pretty good because the barrel isn't really broke in yet, but that is pretty normal on a new factory barrel from my experience.
It could be a bad batch of the .257 100gr TSX BTs. I've got another couple boxes of the .257s from a different lot and will be trying them later on.
Thanks for the suggestions guys! All that time spent brewing up a favorite load and now I'm starting from scratch. That's okay...just means more range time for me!
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