Removing lead build up in barrel

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by bayhawk2, Jan 2, 2011.

  1. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    O.K. It's me again.Reaching out for more help.I shot some
    125 rounds of .45 Colt and approx, 60 rounds of .44 Magnum
    today.I have some lead build up in both barrels.
    Not a lot,but enough to notice.I have run a brass brush down
    the barrels and got lead filings to drop out.Still there is some build up.
    What is the proper way of removing this lead build up?
    P.S.-I tub lubed the bullets as per proceedures.I may have shot too fast,
    not giving the barrel time to cool,but it felt cool before I shot.
    I did have the rounds at max loads.I plan on bringing the loads
    way back.The BHN should be around 13-14.I uh..?Thanks-bayhawk
  2. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Messages:
    18,269
    Location:
    Heart Of Texas
    velocity too high for the hardness of your alloy. Keep velocity around 1000 fps or less.

    removing the lead requires elbow grease and patience. it is the price you pay for hotrodding unjacketed boolits. just keep scrubbing til its clean and slow your loads down...
  3. todd51

    todd51 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2009
    Messages:
    2,999
    Location:
    Central, Ohio
    Before I learned to avoid the situation in the first place I used a Lewis Lead Remover
    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS_LEAD_REMOVER
    Always cringed a little bit every time I pulled that down the bore but it did get the lead out.

    Had a S&W 27 that just seemed determined to lead up. Traded it off years ago. The 1911 leaded too but switched to Berry's and Rainier copper plated and no more lead.

    I can't say whether the Lewis is safe practice or not but it will quickly remove lead.
  4. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2006
    Messages:
    2,759
    Location:
    Minnesota
    There is really no "Proper" way to remove lead, but there are a lot of different ways. Some take time and effort, some use chemicals and some only take a few seconds and a few pennies.

    I use what I feel is the fastest, easiest and cheapest way to remove lead. Go to your local Grocery store or Walmart and pickup a box of Chore-Boy all copper scrubbing pads. Make sure they are all copper! cut a small piece off a Chore-Boy pad and wrap it around a worn out copper brush or a nylon bristle brush. Run the brush back and forth a few times and Presto, no more lead.

    It really is that fast and that simple!.

    http://www.choreboyscrubbers.com/Products/Ultimate Scrubbers Pure Copper.aspx
  5. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    JLA-I thought I could get by with it.Hot-rodding is right.
    I had test fired a few rounds in each and no signs of over
    pressure.The groups were o.k.They kicked like a mule,but
    I was o.k. with that as long as the groups were good.
    O.K. so I'm learning.I'll have to turn it back.I'll take the .44 mag
    back to a more range friendly load.937 FPS.
    The .45 Colt back to about 900 FPS.I 'll take your advise. Harder lead or jacketed bullets for hot loads.Thanks again JLA.
    bayhawk
  6. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    Todd.I went to the Brownells Lewis lead remover sight.Sounds pretty good.
    but.............
    Steve-I like.I don't know if we have that Chore-boy copper pad here
    in south Texas.We certainly have Wal-Marts.My next mission?
    Search out for Chore-Boy 99.99% copper pads.Thanks guys.Again.bayhawk
  7. redwing carson

    redwing carson Former Guest

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2010
    Messages:
    734
    Location:
    western wyoming
    we are very lucky today. You can buy a number of good lead and copper removers. I like Sweets it works great. Leading is caused more by gas cutting than anything else. I have shot many pounds of wheel weights in the .44 Mags with no problems. My loads run from 1,200 to 1,400 FPS. The problem you are having is due more to a cast bullet too small to bore. A cast bullet should run larger then the bore of the gun it is fired in. Lets assume your .44 slugs .430 your cast slug should run out at .431. The lead drops form at very high heat as gas is allowed to pass around the loose fitting bullet. These superheated lead drops cool and adhere to the bore causing leading. You may also want to check the choice of powders. I have found Win 296 to be very good in the .44 Mag. For heavy loads a gas check and water dropped bullets can also aid in leading reduction.

    RC
  8. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2003
    Messages:
    6,511
    Location:
    Hesperia, CA
    Many years ago I had leading problem even at the recommended 1000 FPS max velocity. I found the then new Rainier plated bullet.

    Jacketed bullets use a soft lead core swaged into a gilding metal (copper alloy) cup and formed under pressure. Cast bullet are from molten lead in a mold and later forced through a die to size them. Cast bullet hardness is controlled by the alloying metals added to the mix (Antimony and Tin in various proportions). Swaged bullet are made of soft lead by forcing soft lead wire pieces through a die. Plated bullets are cast or swaged bullets flash plated (thin coating) with copper. Today there is not only Rainier but Berry's bullets too.

    The pricing from the bottom up is: cast, swaged, plated, and jacketed. Plated bullets minimize leading but if you drive them too hard you will still get leading. Shoot them at cast bullet load levels (or a bit faster) and the bore will not lead up. Full loads are best made of jacketed bullets.

    LDBennett
  9. steve4102

    steve4102 Former Guest

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2006
    Messages:
    2,759
    Location:
    Minnesota
  10. redwing carson

    redwing carson Former Guest

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2010
    Messages:
    734
    Location:
    western wyoming
    A cast bullet can be driven at speeds up to 1,600 fps with out leading. This is a plain base with out a GC. The speed of 1,600 fps is well past what you need to deliver from your normal .44 handgun. Copper plated bullets are a waste for hot loads. Anyone who has cast bullets and gone thru the learning process can turn out a good strong cast bullet. I have taken Mule Deer, Antelope and finished off many Moose and Elk with 240 WW loads in a .44 Mag. Make sure you have the right size slug and remove all signs of copper jacket metal from your bore. Leaving copper jacket metal in the bore will cause leading in handgun or rifle. Pour your own.

    RC
  11. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    Redwing-Many thanks for the info_O.K...I slugged my .45 Colt barrel at .449.
    My cast and sized bullets are at .451.This was the barrel that had the most lead
    build up.My .44 Mag mold only came in one size from Midway USA.A Lee
    6 mold..at .430.My .44 Mag had very very little lead build up.I found it hard to
    slug,due to it having a ported- barrel extention.I think I done a few things
    wrong that you and others have mentioned.One,I fired too many rounds
    without sticking a swab down the barrels every so often.Two,I fired too many
    rounds too quick.Three,it was dirty powder-Unique.Build up was bad.
    Four-I was at maxed out loads through out the session.
    I plan on fixing all of these.Yes I am going through the learning process.
    I'll get there.I'm not a quiter.Thanks Redwing.By the way.What is "Sweets"?
  12. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    Steve-They had the Chore Boy copper pads at my local store just down the
    street.It did a good job,however I have this stubborn place,right at the chamber
    that I'm working on.JLA is right.I'll be working on that.It got the rest right out in a jiffy.
    Many thanks for saving me a lot of rubbing and scrubbing.I had very little build up in
    my .44 Mag,so that one was easy.bayhawk
  13. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Messages:
    18,269
    Location:
    Heart Of Texas
    is your boolit by chance a bevel base design?
  14. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    JLA-The bullet on the left is the .45 Colt.-230 gr.
    The bullet on the right is the .44 mag.-240gr.
    Just thought I'd back up and take a picture of
    the bench.So far.

    Attached Files:

  15. redwing carson

    redwing carson Former Guest

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2010
    Messages:
    734
    Location:
    western wyoming
    http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=643582



    Bayhawk, check this out. There are many good copper and lead solvents. I have used this one for years and found it does a good job. Always make sure all copper is removed from the bore before shooting lead. The copper fowling will cause more lead to build up in the barrel. Sweets 7.62 will produce a blue patch until the bore is clean from metal alloys. Make sure you use a fiber or bronze brush to clean with. The copper brushs will desolve and give a false reading when using strong solvents. You should also pick up a jar of JB paste cleaner. The JB will remove the lead and smooth the bore so it will not lead as fast. Use a powder that does not burn as hot in the forcing cone for your .44 Mag. H110 and Win 296 give a good fill and meter well. good luck cowboy:)

    RC
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2011
  16. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Messages:
    18,269
    Location:
    Heart Of Texas
    Ahh, the LEE TL boolits. they are great boolits but must not be hotrodded. They are both bevel base designs which are not the best choice for revolvers, but they work well if velocities are kept moderate. Id suggest between 800-900 fps for both loads, that 230 gr TC boolit is actually meant for the .45ACP (lack of a proper crimp groove) but if you seat them just over the ogive you can crimp over it for use in revolver rounds. Unique is a great powder for both of those rounds and so long as velocities are kept between 8 and 9 hundred i think youll find very accurate and enjoyable target loads...
  17. bayhawk2

    bayhawk2 New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2010
    Messages:
    102
    Well guys-I think I'm gonna take a little pinch of this advise and
    a little dab of that advise.Put it in a pot,stir it up and go make
    some bullets.I know I have come to the right place for making and
    shooting cast bullets. I've made mistakes,but you guys have trouble shooted
    them.I appreciate your time and your knowledge.I can't put a
    price on that.Let's go burn some powder.Bayhawk
  18. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2007
    Messages:
    18,269
    Location:
    Heart Of Texas
    I agree. Im headn to the range after I go buy some melons from the grocery store. doin it 'gunny' style today...:)
Similar Threads
Forum Title Date
The Ammo & Reloading Forum Removing the Decapping Pin May 2, 2014
The Ammo & Reloading Forum Removing Polishing Rouge From Cases Jan 9, 2013
The Ammo & Reloading Forum Removing Glock Bulge Sep 9, 2011
The Ammo & Reloading Forum Removing pwdr. fm factory buckshot loads Mar 14, 2010
The Ammo & Reloading Forum Removing primer walls Mar 18, 2009

Share This Page