Resizing dies?

Discussion in 'The Ammo & Reloading Forum' started by GMFWoodchuck, May 12, 2009.

  1. GMFWoodchuck

    GMFWoodchuck New Member

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    I have a set of dies for reloading my 22-250 savage. The resizing die is a full length type. Should I bother buying a neck-resizing only die or what? What about the X-Die from RCBS? Supposedly the neck only and X-dies make the brass last longer. Is this more hype than truth?

    And do the competition seating dies, like the open window ones fron RCBS or that sliding seating die from Hornady (the type of dies that make sure the bullets start seating straight from the start) help improve accuracy all that much? I'm already well under an inch with my savage with the regular RCBS dies. Between a 1/2 and 3/4 inch groups most of the time.

    I guess the point to my question is the money spent going to do anything for me? If it helps I'll get them, but other wise I'd rather spend the money on other stuff like dies for my Dad's 30-40 Krag and 30-30 win '94 and shooting rest type stuff. Mostly an opinion question I suppose.....

    Thanks.
    Last edited: May 12, 2009
  2. Freebore

    Freebore New Member

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    This is a very debateable subject and I'm sure many will pipe in with their opinions (even if they haven't tried both resizing methods).

    The 22/250 is considered a medium pressure round and is subject case expansion (safely up to .0005"). Resizing the entire body back to factory size DOES work the brass harder and eventually shorten up case life. Neck sizing only, resizes the neck (which can be easily anealed). The other benefit is it is easy to obtain (just enough) good bullet tension without moving the shoulder back, thus reducing the chance of excessive headspace

    As for my experience I (now) neck size most of my .224 rifle calibers (221, 223, 22/250, 220 Swift). Obviously if you obtain any pre-fired brass you would need to (first) full length resize. I have only used Reddding NK dies for all of these calibers and have had excellent case life. I would suggest also to look into anealing to extend useful case life when neck sizing.

    As for straight line seating, there definately is some merit for improving accuracy, but like everything else in reloading, its the whole process that provides the best results that you and your equipment can produce.

    Thumbs up for neck sizing....
  3. Freebore

    Freebore New Member

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    GMF,

    By the way....

    How does your Savage shoot, mine is the BVSS in 22/250 and it is just unbelievable for a factory rifle. Replaced the trigger with a Timney Set and it helped alot.
  4. GMFWoodchuck

    GMFWoodchuck New Member

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    That's the thing, my Savage shoots really well. 1/2"-3/4" groups are easy enough. It's a stock 12FV. That why I was wondering how much more I can get out of the seating dies. It gets to the point of "do I really need a 1/4" group?" Maybe I do, if I'm gonna be shooting woodchucks at 400 yards.

    Thanks for the annealing tip.
    Last edited: May 12, 2009
  5. bntyhntr6975

    bntyhntr6975 Member

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    One thing to consider is this: How many rifles are you planning to put those rounds in? If its just 1, then neck sizing will benefit you. It is easier on the brass, and can give more accurate results (the case already "fits" the chamber). The FL dies resize the case back to factory specs. Since many chambers and headspace varies from rifle to rifle, the FL dies make that cartridge fit in the vast majority. When neck sized, the case fits correctly in YOUR chamber, with YOUR headspace. They may not even chamber in another rifle, or they may be very tight. Seating dies: You may not realize there is much difference between them, until you try some of the competition grade. They are a lot more precise and consistent. But, the seating die you get in all the normal sets will work for most people in most situations. When you want to really squeeze that last bit of accuracy, thats the time to upgrade your seating die. 1/4" groups can still be easily had with a regular seating die.
  6. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    if your rifle hits like that with factory ammo there is absolutely no need to use anything except a standard die set. A quarter inch group will kill woodchucks at 900 yards if the shooter does his part. Thats further than anybody i know could even see a woodchuck. No sense in spending hundreds of extra dollars to gain a 1/10th of an inch, unless of cours you shoot benchrest competition where the big money depends on the .001 measurements.
  7. GMFWoodchuck

    GMFWoodchuck New Member

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    That's with factory and reloads. The groups, I mean.

    But I think you guys answered my questions. I'll probably buy a neck sizing die and hold off on the seating dies for now anyway. I figure the neck sizing die might save me some money in the long run, as I'm only using one rifle for the 22-250.

    Thank's alot fellas!
  8. GMFWoodchuck

    GMFWoodchuck New Member

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    Did you have the accu-trigger before or the older style?
  9. Freebore

    Freebore New Member

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    GMF,

    I have an early 112 BVSS that was equipped with the original older trigger and it was not the greatest. The Timney Set Trigger made a world of difference.

    Good luck...good shooting
  10. JLA

    JLA Well-Known Member

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    I do like those accutriggers, they are probably the best factory trigger in existence, with the CZ set trigger coming in a close second, if not a tie for first...
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