revolver, ss

Discussion in 'Centerfire Pistols & Revolvers' started by drunkdude69, Jan 31, 2006.

  1. drunkdude69

    drunkdude69 New Member

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    I'm new to the revolver arena. I just bought and love my new Ruger GP100 6" barrel stainless, but it I am a total newb when it comes to cleaning this type of gun. I am used to rifles and autoloaders (Glock pistol), none of which are stainless. I noticed there are stains on stainless rev0olvers that are hard to get out, and that pisses me off. Any help in this regard is well appreciated, because I would hate to be the dirt bag who changes a good weapon into an unreliable one.
  2. Tracker

    Tracker New Member

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    I've used " Gunbrite " . Seems to work well.
  3. LDBennett

    LDBennett Well-Known Member

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    drunkdude69:

    I have had SS revolversfor years including the GP100 you have. I clean the gun with standard Hoppe's but the window (the frame area around the cylinder normally hiden from view) gets scrubing from a fine stainless bush to remove the staining there. The muzzle end of the cylinder get the stainless brushing treatment as well. The staining also occurs on the side of the cylinder. Don't use the stainless brush here or on any surface that you can see as it may scratch it. I use the lead remover cloth that is normally use in the bore to remove leading. Just use it lightly because it can scratch if used too aggressively.This cloth can be used in the other areas as well.

    The trick is to get the staining off with every cleaning so that it doesn't build up. I have done my gun this way for 20 years with no ill effects and the guns are always clean and stain free.

    LDBennett
  4. Drunkdude, you might try a product called "Metalglo" for that purpose. It's a paste material containing a VERY, VERY fine abrasive, very much like a jewelers rouge. It's more a polish than an abrasive. It will make short work of the kind of residue you describe. Just be sure you wipe it all off after you finish cleaning so it doesn't migrate onto other metal parts and cause wear. I use it often on my stainless revolvers.
  5. Bruce FLinch

    Bruce FLinch New Member

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    Pro-Shot Products make a great aid for cleaning SS guns. "Lead Cleaning Cloth" Looks like thin yellow leather. A 1-1/2 inch square does a whole "external" clean job in a few minutes. Wipe w/ a clean soft cloth afterwards. A small piece on the end of a jag will remove a lot of barrell crud too. For SS guns only. My GP100 loves it. Takes a little more effort on the face of the cylinder, but does a great job. Happy Shooting :)
  6. drunkdude69

    drunkdude69 New Member

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    Thanks for the advice guys. I got a lead-removing cloth and it seems to do the trick. I'm still having a little problem with the chambers in the cylinder, so I'll try some of the other ideas you listed.
    Thanks again,
    Mike (drunkdude69)

    Edit: Maybe I left the chambers in the cylinder go too long, but the only thing that finally got all the gunk out was a .40 bronze brush at the end of a rifle cleaning-rod segment stuck into a drill (to spin it), and some solvent. I usually don't like cleaning guns with power tools, but even a lead-cleaning cloth cut and used as a patch didn't put a dent in this stuff.

    Part of the problem is shooting .38 Special thru the 357. The crud was all in between where the 38 casing stops and the 357 casing stops in the chamber. VERY caked after several hundred rounds!!! 357 all the way from now on, and I'm going to bore snake all the chambers at the range while the gun is still warm.
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2006
  7. Bruce FLinch

    Bruce FLinch New Member

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    You learned a lesson the hard way, Dude. ( like I did ) Damn gun salesman, will tell you no problem saving a few bucks by shooting 38's in a 357. Of course, if your time to clean it is worth nothing :( Now I only shoot 38's in a 38 & leave the 357's in the big wheelguns. Went to jacketed bullets too!
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