I think im gonna sticky this thread.. I needed it a couple times here recently and had to dig it up out of the archives.
Thank you JLA..and I hope it has helped some.
I will add the following since last original post here;
- The pistol is still doing fine, not only is my initial carry pistol still,
and did fine since initial CHL, I subsequently became an Instructor for
Texas in 2010, and used it for that, as qualifying requires both a revolver
and a SA or auto. I was at 242 with this pistol out of needing 225 as
Instructor to qualify from possible 250 allowed. Texas students require
190 or better with weapon of choice. A qualify with auto allows revolver
carry also, however revolver use allows only that type carry etc..
- I since learned this pistol, in spite of "so called" Glock lawsuit, was indeed
designed to have such a pull per trigger, as this is indeed, the only safety
aspect of the weapon, short of the "essential safety between the ears"
as mentioned.
- I have seen on various other sources, this "trigger pull" and action
feel, was a result of S&W desire to copy as close as possible the DA
feel of a Model 60 revolver. I have tried both, and can believe this.
- I have also " learned" and since proven, most were right on in their
advice that 500 rounds or so would produce about the same results as
the "mods" I had explored from others initially.
- I have subsequently left the pigtail spring off, however I have taken
others advice and used a spring similar to a ball pen type to indeed be
there to possibly keep the inner actual "work" spring in place.
- Besides the actual breakin or more important "practice and use and
general familiarity " with pistol, the most effective maintenance I do
want to add for any is regarding the plastic sear mount hump or section
that trigger (springs) assembly levers against per use. This rounded
portion and area responds well to a small amount of black lithium or similar
grease. It does remove some grittiness experienced by so many.
- The "other" way to improve trigger feel and grittiness I did not mention
or include in above initial post, I learned by my own examination. The trigger spring assembly shown (where pigtail is removed) has inner walls
or contact surfaces that produce friction as these "springs" that are shown
travel or work .....I noticed that the surfaces involved per the friction or
travel were rough and unfinished or unpolished versus the type of surface
one might expect from fine machining etc....in fact, turns out these
surfaces were left as is, per economics of manufacture , and are actually
one of the first areas looked at and worked when S&W (used) to do
free return work on these pistols initially.
I happened to have several sets of very fine relay files from years of
electronic work, and with these and the use of a good polish ( Mothers,
mag wheel cream) I "carefully" did indeed affect these surfaces with an
end result that greatly reduced any grit feel or grit drag etc..
- I know of no way to reduce "travel" of this trigger design, as it is what
it is. I also have since learned the use of "Glock" or 'Wolff " or similar
spring change outs that I was warned against, do indeed, at some time
when you are not expecting it, eventually cause or are likely to cause
a fail to strike or sufficient hammer strike to primer. So as poundage
reduction on a "carry weapon" was never my intent, I am glad I never
explored this option, and would advise against it.
- I would also advise is very important to effectively grease the
" 6 " points as described in manual. This weapon does not like or need
much oil.
regards,