S&W tool - DIY

Discussion in 'Centerfire Pistols & Revolvers' started by Slabsides, Dec 13, 2011.

  1. Slabsides

    Slabsides New Member

    Jul 22, 2009
    L.A. (Lower Alabama)
    Hello all, if you are like me, you enjoy maintaining your own firearms. Sometimes a special tool is absolutely required if you do not want to damage something, have a spring fly into space or simply be able to put things back together without too much blood loss.:D

    Such is the case with the ever-present S&W revolver. I'm dealing with a model 10 in this entry. The gun can be completely disassembled with minimal tools.....except for one thing. The rebound block and spring. A special tool is required to safely remove and install these items without damage, cussing and bleeding.

    I love to build my own special tools, partly because I enjoy the challenge and partly because I do not have unlimited resources for all the special tools I need. So, I set out to make the tool required for removal/installation of said parts. After scrounging around in the shop and considering using a 3/16 screwdiver to alter, I found the perfect donor.....an old bathroom sink plunger pushrod!....you know, the knob between the cold/hot knobs you pull up for the stopper. (I knew I kept that for a reason when I switched out faucets!)

    Now, the rod I'm using measures 0.194" dia. The test tool I first made was from a 3/16" bolt (0.187"). So, a 3/16" rod could be used to make this tool, you would just need a good handle, like a modified donor handle from an old screwdriver. The slot cut into the tool measures 0.090" wide and is 0.120" deep. These measurements work well on my tool through several trys.

    Tools I used: Vice, small wrench, dremel, small files, fine sandpaper and a vernier caliper.

    So, here we go....hopefully the pics show up.

    First, select a proper rod of good strength. Here is my donor pictured with the prototype test fit tool made from a bolt.


    Next, bend the rod to clear the frame opening so it will line up correctly to the block assy. Having the gun opened up for test fitting is a must at this point.


    I made my bends by putting a 10mm wrench over the rod while it is locked in a vice, then use the wrench to bend as shown....worked well (ain't leverage swell?)


    After the bends are made, the rod must be cut not far after the last bend. Trial fitting this will show you where the cut needs to be as well as proper angle to fit correctly and still clear the frame. Now cut and file the slot. De-bur and sand smooth. The tip will resemble a slightly oversized valve core tool as shown.


    Finished product in action....push straight in and gently lift when spring clears pin and lift. carefully release while holding block.




    There are plenty of write ups and videos showing how to get the gun to this point, but every one I see online stops prior to this. I don't like to stop. Now you don't have to either. Complete teardown is now do-able and all parts can be inspected/repaired/replaced.

    I know what you are thinking now......step away from the bathroom sink....the wife will not be happy next time she wants to fill the sink....:D
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2011
  2. Helix_FR

    Helix_FR New Member

    Apr 14, 2009
    Imperial, MO
    seems like it works good. I've always found myself using the phillps head screwdriver myself.
  3. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs Active Member

    Apr 7, 2006
    I just use a small flat head.
  4. StoneChimney

    StoneChimney New Member

    Nov 27, 2010
    I'll second the small flat-head for removal and a Phillips for installation.
  5. jack404

    jack404 Former Guest

    Jan 11, 2010
    i think its a great tool , not a wheel gun fan myself , but made tools to suit a few times

    i think this will help a few folks ..
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