Savage 340E .222 When were they made?

Discussion in 'Technical Questions & Information' started by HECKATHORN, Jun 19, 2013.

  1. HECKATHORN

    HECKATHORN New Member

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    Looking to find out when the savage 340E .222 was made.
    I have taken it apart to clean after buying it and cannot find a serial number
    The gentleman said it was made in the 80s
    Doubtful after not seeing a serial #
    Any infor would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

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    I don't know exactly when the E series was offered. I'm pretty sure it was sometime in the mid-50s or later when the "C" improvements superceded the original and "B" improvement models. I think the "C" series came out in 1958 or 1959 but I don't know for sure. Not much history has been kept of Savage's ugly little utility rifle. They're usually very good shooters though.
    They stopped making the 340 around '83.

    The E was the "fancy" checkered stock version. but around here that doesn't boost the value any.
    Does yours have pressed checkering or cut checkering? If cut, then it's an earlier E.


    Also, until 1965 the 340s weren't serial numbered. Some guys say they didn't start numbering until after the GCA'68 but others say it was earlier in 1965.
    If no serial number, your rifle will be older than that.
    Also, the original (and "B" improvements too I think) don't have the gas escape hole on the right side of the receiver. Starting with the "C" they did include that feature. That's about where the serial # should be located too
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2013
  3. HECKATHORN

    HECKATHORN New Member

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    No serial # I couldn't really tell the difference between
    the cut or pressed checkering because I haven't seen
    there difference before. (Havent seen an example of both)

    Ps. Where is the best place to ask about the trigger on these?
  4. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

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    Pressed vs cut checkering is easy to distinguish.
    With cut checkering, the wood is cut away, leaving the points of the diamonds sticking up.
    Pressed checkering will look exactly the opposite. The points of the diamonds are pressed into the wood, leaving the ribs raised above the diamond.
    If you can post a picture of your rifle, someone can ID the checkering style for ya.
    Since it's a non-serialed rifle, it might have either type of checkering.


    This forum would be the right place to ask about the trigger too. Got problems with it?
  5. HECKATHORN

    HECKATHORN New Member

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    I get a close up of the checkering later on today,
    But no not really a problem. They have been
    Known to have heavy triggers from what I have
    Read and mine, yes has a heavy trigger but on the
    Other hand I was wondering if anyone without a
    Trigger job have had a hair trigger. Reason I ask
    Is because I for some reason have either a heavy trigger
    Or a hair trigger. Everything still functions just fine and
    It does shoot when it's not supposed to but I'm talking
    About a 4-5ld pull to a 1lb or less.
  6. HECKATHORN

    HECKATHORN New Member

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    This may help I sorta understood what you meant.
    Am I right that this is pressed?

    image.jpg
  7. HECKATHORN

    HECKATHORN New Member

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    Wow I hate spell check. ^ it said does shoot it actually does not shoot when it's not supposed to. As for the checkering I am still curious.
  8. goofy

    goofy Well-Known Member

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    It looks like pressed checkering.
    Mike
  9. Bindernut

    Bindernut Well-Known Member

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    Yup, that's the pressed checkering as used on the later 340s. I'm not exactly sure when the checkering style was switched so I'll venture a guess that your rifle was made sometime between the late 50s (starting around the timeframe of the B or C improvements) and 1965 (since it has no serial number).

    As for doing a trigger job on the 340s. You can clean up the feel bu polishing the sear surfaces but there isn't much you can do to lighten them up. I've done a couple that wound up in the 5-6lb range but they do feel lighter with the rough machine marks stoned off. Like any other trigger job, it takes finesse and attention to not change any of the angles on the mating surfaces otherwise it can go from clean to unsafe in a hurry..
    I never did try to mess with the initial takeup and overtravel though so I can't help you with that part of a 340 trigger job.

    It sounds like you might have some rust or grit inside the trigger groupl that is causing the intermittent erratic trigger. I would start with a good solid cleaning and check for burrs on the parts. Also check the sear spring to make sure it's strong enough to fully return the sear when the action is cocked. A past owner might've fiddled with the sear and or trigger spring to try to lighten things up. Both are fairly simple legged coils springs so it is possible to tweak them by bending.
    http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufac...Series-39746/340SeriesE-34020.htm?results=All
    The trigger parts are 29-35 on the parts list.
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2013
  10. HECKATHORN

    HECKATHORN New Member

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    I made a post of exactly how my trigger works
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