savage model 99 value

Discussion in 'The Ask the Pros & What's It Worth? Forum' started by joncutt87, Jun 6, 2011.

  1. joncutt87

    joncutt87 Active Member

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    I recently purchased a Savage model 99, chambered in .300 Savage. It is in immaculate shape, and the serial number is 708187. Any information would be great.
  2. Contenderizer

    Contenderizer New Member

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    We are going to need a little more info.

    Savage began making the Model 99 in 1899, and made numerous variations over the years. Some variations are also characterized as Early Models and Late Models, and in some cases the values are vastly different.

    I don't have a cross-over for serial numbers that would help determine your model. Perhaps someone else does. In any case photos and a full description would be helpful.
  3. steve99f

    steve99f New Member

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    That serial number puts it into the 1950's. If you look on the point where the lever hinges, facing the serial number, you will see an oval with a letter and number stamped into it. The number is the inspector number, the letter is a year code beginning with A in 1949, b in 1950, c in 1951, etc.

    If the rifle has a schnable fore end and pistol grip stock, it's a model EG. If it has a rounded fore end it's an R model. If it's an F, it will say so next to the rear sight, right hand side. I think this is too early for an F.

    If it's truly mint and factory original it might be worth 1K. If it has sling studs installed, not factory. If it is drilled and tapped for a scope on the frame side, that is not factory. If it's drilled and tapped for a top mount and the lettering is drilled through, non factory. Compasses installed in the butt stock weren't a factory option either. Sorry, couldn't resist that one.

    Steve
  4. joncutt87

    joncutt87 Active Member

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    Thanks steve, it is a 1950. It has sling studs. There are six screws in the top of the receiver, a pistol grip, and checkering on both the fore end and stock.
  5. joncutt87

    joncutt87 Active Member

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    im going to go with a model 'R'
  6. steve99f

    steve99f New Member

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    If the sling attaches to eyes, rather than sling studs like Uncle Mike's, they are factory on the R model in 1950. Also the rifle was drilled and tapped for Weaver mounts starting in 1950, according to Doug Murray's "The Ninety Nine".

    Sounds like you have a nice rifle there. Should be very accurate. The 300 Savage is a great classic old round and doesn't give up much to the 308Winch.

    Good luck with it!
  7. BETH

    BETH Well-Known Member

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    how about a picture
  8. joncutt87

    joncutt87 Active Member

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    [​IMG]
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    Last edited: Jun 11, 2011
  9. 300 H&H

    300 H&H Active Member

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    The condition is, well I would not describe it as it was in the original post. It is an R model. Notice the lack of case hardening colors in the lever. Notice the cartride counter, is it brass? In the pic it looks "white". Hope that is just the photo. There are lots of handling marks on the stock, checking smashed flat in the grip area, along with other denting/rubbing of the face of the stock. It quite possibly could have been touched up for the sale? I am sorry but a $1K gun this is not. Maybe if it were in 250/3000, but not as a 300 Savage. Lots of those. Maybe $750 or so. It really is not a collector grade gun.

    Regards, Kirk
  10. joncutt87

    joncutt87 Active Member

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    Kirk, thanks for that last bit of information. I paid 450, so at least I came out ahead on that one.
  11. steve99f

    steve99f New Member

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    Brass cartridge counters aren't always encountered. They have been seen case colored, aluminum, and steel in the white. Not being argumentative here, just informative.

    You didn't get hurt at that price, joncutt87. A great hunting rifle for cheap. If you plan to shoot this a lot doing load development or practice, etc you need to be aware of the tendency for these to develop the dreaded tang crack in the wood behind the top tang.
    The design requires the lower tang to handle the recoil stress so the stock bolt needs to remain tight but not gorilla tight. There are no torque specs that I've seen or heard about. The stock bolt is accessed under the buttplate. You can shim or bed the lower tang and that should help a lot.

    Also, if you have to remove the butt stock do not twist it during removal. The side panels are delicate. Pull it straight back.
  12. joncutt87

    joncutt87 Active Member

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    Ok, thanks for that bit steve
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